SPITBALLING,F2/R42

Was thinking today about what would be a descent trade off in size/capacity to F2('79) We don't have alot of acres and only run corn and beans. Not looking for capacity so much as gaining YEARS on a machine. Hoping to stay with a 4/30 corn head and whatever grain table for said machine(we run a 15' on the F2).I don't see alot of the '42's on Tractor House and not yet Googled specs for one. Wondering if anyone has experience with that small of a rotor machine. Thanks

The way I understand combine "class" only has to do with BIN CAPACITY,, not anything to do with threshing capacity..

R42 is undated version of r40 bin capacity r40 is 160 bu f2 bin was 110 bu f2 is a good 4 row machine r40 plays with 630

had a f2 good machine have r40 now it will run circles around f2

Farm stuff 8050,6690,175,F2,5050,WD

CrestonM wrote:

Oh wow, yes I understand what you mean. I've only seen one R42 in person, and it was at an auction. Looked good, but went dirt cheap. I think an R42 is about a 1.5' taller than an F series, but I could be wrong.

Michael, I thought it was hp and separator size, but maybe not?

If it is truly a foot and a half taller, there is no way it will go in the barn LOL!

FREEDGUY wrote:

CrestonM wrote:

Oh wow, yes I understand what you mean. I've only seen one R42 in person, and it was at an auction. Looked good, but went dirt cheap. I think an R42 is about a 1.5' taller than an F series, but I could be wrong.

Michael, I thought it was hp and separator size, but maybe not?

If it is truly a foot and a half taller, there is no way it will go in the barn LOL!

Take that with a grain of salt, but I think that's what I heard. Providing the bubble up auger is folded down. I don't know the width. I just know the one I saw at the auction looked a good bit bigger than an F series.

I bet someone else will know for sure.

If you're just looking to take years off and don't necessarily need more capacity, depending on how "new" you're wanting, I'd look for a good green stripe F3, although I personally don't like the looks of them.
Or maybe, since you've ran your machine and probably know what's been done to it, you might consider having it ran through a shop. I've heard of a lot of Deere guys doing that, of course, they almost have to do that Wink

Edited by CrestonM - 31 Jan 2018 at 8:16pm

CrestonM wrote:

Oh wow, yes I understand what you mean. I've only seen one R42 in person, and it was at an auction. Looked good, but went dirt cheap. I think an R42 is about a 1.5' taller than an F series, but I could be wrong.

Michael, I thought it was hp and separator size, but maybe not?

Transport height for 50 134.4 in. Extensions down
F3 is 130 in. Is what brochures say

8070FWA,7080 BlackBelly, 7045,2 200s,D19,D17,G, WD,45,UC,7 AC mowers and lots more!
"IT TAKES 3 JD's TO OUT DO AN ALLIS, 2 TO MATCH IT IN THE FIELD AND 1 FOR PARTS!"

Can a 4/30 head be run on a 40/42? I think I understand that they are capable of 6 rows, but would the 4 row be a complete waste of the combine? Our 4 row fits in the barn door now(15'),but the 15' table won't. We plant with a 4 row planter for what it's worth. Thanks for all the input.

you'll have to drive fast with 4-30's.Has to be kept full to operate( seperator) correctly.

Rotor is fairly similar to a cylinder machine for learning settings. My local dealer told me that on a rotor to always remember that too fast cracks and too slow explodes. In reference to the corn cobs coming out the back and grain in the tank. If the cob looks like it "blew up" (or pulverized) then the rotor is running too slow (if the concave is set correctly), and if you are cracking the corn in the tank then the rotor is running too fast.

The basic settings he gave me for setting one are: break an ear of corn in half and measure the cob diameter and set the concave clearance 1/8" smaller than the cob diameter. Next start out with the rotor speed set a little slow (on corn you can probably start around 250-300 rpm) and keep speeding the rotor up until you start to crack corn then slow it down 50 rpm and the rotor speed is set. When running beans I usually on my R50 will set the rotor at 600 rpm then adjust as needed and the concave around 3/8" and adjust as needed to thresh the beans but not split them. On beans and corn I run full air, but I don't know if maybe on an R40/42 if you would need to close the air down a little to avoid blowing grain over the rear.

Shameless,the doors are already modified to the max from previous "upgrades" LOL! There's only so much you can do with a 100+ year old timber framed barn. And yes, we have several saws Wink

yeah!!! what Lonn says!

Thanks bharper! Can anyone tell me what type of stone protection a N/R series machine has? Is it similar to the conventionals with the rock door or completely different? I have read posts on A/T of guys ingesting rocks in their red/green machines and incurring $25-30 grand worth of repairs??

Thank you. I asked guys "over there" what their combines had for a door and didn't get an answer. I thought maybe a rotor machine could not utilize a door like the conventionals.

I talked to a Deere dealer at one time about what they did when their combines ate rocks. They said they usually get by by re-balancing the rotor, even if there's a big dent made. Saves time and money I guess.
Of course, in this area, our "big" field rocks are baseball size, and those are few and far between. Not sure what you've got in Michigan.

wish my IH rotor combine had a rock door/trap like my Gleaner did. would have saved me a combine! not a lot of damage to the rotor or cage, but it smashed everything else inside the combine! insurance paid $6500. for the damage (not full amount of estimate), but was able to buy another combine for $3500. and still had the other for parts....engine,hydro,tires, ect.

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