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POINTS/CONDENSER ?

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 7:10pm
With all the talk/buzz recently on a "distributor" system, mainly the poor quality of said condenser, can a guy go to the dealer/ auto parts store with a multi tester and "OHM-OUT" a variety of condensers and get a "GOOD" one? thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 8:31pm
You can check a condenser with an ohmmeter, but it will only show a short. There are capacitor testers out there, but I doubt an automotive store would have one. To truly test a capacitor you need to apply the rated working voltage to it and check both the value as well as if there is any voltage breakdown.  Automotive condensers seldom go bad, but they do. Especially the el cheapo foreign-made ones available today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 8:48pm
What is important is the value of the capacitor ( condenser). It's measured in mfd or microfarads. It needs to be the proper value so as  to quench ( kill) the arc ( sparking of the points) to give good life to the points and at the same time release  lots of energy to the coil. In 55+ years I can count on one hand the number of 'bad' condensers I've had.
Now as to the value..that 'should' be listed with the coil specs as they are a 'team'.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 8:55pm
I wonder if one could use an over rated capacitor in place of these cheap looks-like-a-condensers. Perhaps a capacitor used in some alternating current motors, called “running” capacitors. Continuous use rating and available in several formats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 6:26am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

What is important is the value of the capacitor ( condenser). It's measured in mfd or microfarads. It needs to be the proper value so as  to quench ( kill) the arc ( sparking of the points) to give good life to the points and at the same time release  lots of energy to the coil. In 55+ years I can count on one hand the number of 'bad' condensers I've had.
Now as to the value..that 'should' be listed with the coil specs as they are a 'team'.

Had I saved all the bad condensers I’ve had to replace in my lifetime, you’d have more than you’d care to haul around with you in a bucket all day. Years ago it was rare, however nowadays it’s my experience to be rare to find a good one. Most likely because everything comes from the lowest bidder in some third world country.   
For that reason I use the electronic conversions, install them and forget them.

Edited by PaulB - 13 Dec 2017 at 1:17am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 6:57am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

What is important is the value of the capacitor ( condenser). It's measured in mfd or microfarads. It needs to be the proper value so as  to quench ( kill) the arc ( sparking of the points) to give good life to the points and at the same time release  lots of energy to the coil. In 55+ years I can count on one hand the number of 'bad' condensers I've had.
Now as to the value..that 'should' be listed with the coil specs as they are a 'team'.
The problem here is you won't be able to specify a certain value of capacitor when you go to a parts store. Stock coils should be of similar value, so an off the shelf condenser should be good enough. You may have a problem if you use aftermarket high performance coils. In this case I'd go with electronic ignition.
 


Edited by DougS - 12 Dec 2017 at 6:58am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 7:08am

I've gotten my points and condensers from Steve at B&B Custom Circuits with real good results!   Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 7:47am
Originally posted by Rick Rick wrote:


I've gotten my points and condensers from Steve at B&B Custom Circuits with real good results!   Rick

You probably paid more too. Steve is not a box store that buys the cheapest foreign-made stuff that buys cheap stuff so to brag about low prices. In a way it’s our own fault that so much junk is available on the market today. This low quality cheap stuff has snuffed out the production of the domestic made quality parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 7:50am
I seem to recall the cap on my D-14 is .22 mfd,probably a 400 VDC unit. Any good electronics place will have them. The 'problem' is you'll have to mount it outside the distributor so it ain't going to be 'original'.

Here's a link for a good read....
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/cap_failure/

.... explain why they fail( poor manufacturing ) and a $3 fix !


Edited by jaybmiller - 12 Dec 2017 at 7:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 8:27am
Doug...I was merely pointing out where to go to get BETTER parts. I don't care where anyone gets their parts from, really, but I like quality stuff. You're right, it's our own fault for even allowing crap like this to happen, but, yet...here it is. No one wants to spend a tad more for quality stuff, but then sit and gripe about how high things are here. I don't care if a set of points costs me 20.00 a set, if they'll do what they're supposed to do. But, if a set of points only cost a 5.00 bill, then you can imagine how they're going to work when installed... And, most of those cheap points are made overseas and burn out fast, so...why not get the best first? Like the old saying goes that I was raised on (and we were poor folk) Good stuff ain't cheap and cheap stuff ain't good!   :)   Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 8:31am
In contrast to Jay's report, I've found more ignition problems due to failed condensers... and destroyed points due to bad condensers, than any other ignition problem.

To put it in proper perspective, though... I've had older ignition systems... I've pulled old wrecks from country ditches, raised sunken boats and junkyard engines, magnetos from frozen-cracked-and-gone blocks, and most of the time, these things had ignition parts including perfectly good, but very aged condensers...

While at the same time, I've purchased tune-up kits off store shelves, and the condenser was bad right out of the box.

There's some obvious reality here... first being, that when you find an old wreck somewhere, and it has a condenser in it, you know FOR CERTAIN that the condenser was at one time GOOD... because it was 'running when last parked', right? That's inevitably 'quality assurance' to which that the replacement in the kit has not yet been subjected... meaning, it was proven in real life.

There was a time when products like this were put to a viable testing process... first for 'quality control', and if they were really dedicated to their craft, and after that, 'quality assurance'.

Quality CONTROL is when you manufacture a lot of parts, and you take regular samples to make sure the TOLERANCES of the parts' design criteria (critical dimensions, etc) are all being met. That means, if a part is designed to be 1.000" diameter, and the tolerance is +0.001, and -0.003, that you're getting parts that are between 0.997 and 1.001"   If you see that some particular issue with design, or any OTHER critical aspect is not proper, that the line is immediately diverted for re-work, and the failing issue resolved.

Quality ASSURANCE, is when each INDIVIDUAL part is tested for those tolerances, so that any BAD parts are found before ever going out the door.

Better refill your coffee cup...

The problem with QC and QA nowdays, is that there's very little focus on QC, and basically NONE on QA... particularly if it comes from southeast Asia. There's people over there that get their hands on some part, they take a look at it, and figure out a way to make an 'identical' replacement. In some cases, the part isn't half bad, and if they present it to a company on this side of the pond, at a substantially lower price, and the parts 'seem' good, the company will shut down it's OWN production, and package the foriegn part in it's place. Sometimes, the foriegn manufacturer will even copy the packaging, and sell it through some untraceable means as a counterfeit.

One of the most blatant, was twenty years ago, when I needed a PH-8A for my 300-6 Ford... walked into a big store, picked up an orange oil filter box off the shelf, and didn't realize 'till I got home that the black-on-Orange said "Farm", not FRAM. I didn't use it, but instead I took a can opener to the counterfeit, and found that it had NO FILTER ELEMENT... just an empty can.

Condensers are nothing more than special-purpose capacitors. A capacitor is an electrochemical device like a battery- it has metal film plates separated by an electrolytic barrier such that when you apply an electric charge, it will charge to a certain voltage, and 'hold' a certain amount of charge for a substantially long time. Any electronics shop has a meter that will test the 'value', (amount of current stored) and given proper equipment, time, and patience, one could test the breakdown voltage (how much voltage it can withstand), but there's other factors... like Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR), and the maximum FREQUENCY that it will operate at before breaking down.

It's not a simple passage of tests, though... because condensers aren't all the same... they vary in design criteria to suit the electrical reality of the application.
For example:
A four cylinder engine has two ignition events per crankshaft rotation. Running at 1000rpm, that coil is firing 2000 times per minute... 33 times a second.

An eight-cylinder engine is firing FOUR TIMES every revolution... and if it's turning 4000rpm, that's 16000 times every minute... 266 times a second.

A single-cylinder Kohler 12hp fires once every TWO rotations... turning 2400rpm, that's 1200 times a minute, or 20 times a second.

For each of these applications, the ignition coil must have a totally different character... the amount of 'dwell' available for the Kohler single is so long, that substituting a V8 coil will burn out the coil windings and points in just a short while... especially when the vibration of that one-lung beastie shakes it to death. Likewise, if you use the single's coil in the V8, there's so much inductance and resistance in the single's coil, that it cannot charge and discharge to fire fast enough. That coil would be experiencing the equivalent of the big single going 32,000rpm.

And for each coil design, there's a corresponding value of capacitance needed to prevent the coil's internal oscillation on collapse from striking a high-frequency arc across the points.

See, when you remove current from an ignition coil's primary, the field collapses, which creates a very high voltage at the secondary. When that secondary voltage is discharged across an arc, the collapse makes it 'ring' in an electromagnetic sense, like you just whacked a brake drum with a hammer. That ringing is an AC voltage that occurs at RADIO FREQUENCY... and it's intense enough to burn an arc across the primary, and most visibly, across the ignition points. The CONDENSER's job, is to absorb that radio-frequency oscillation so that it cannot burn the coil's primary winding insulation AND... so that it doesn't burn away the breaker point contacts. Of course, the condenser in a magneto has a dedicated coil, and a mechanically-applied magnetic field, so it doesn't have 'dwell', it plays by a totally different set of rules.

The reality of condensers nowdays, is that they're not being used in modern electronic systems, so they're not being manufactured or distributed in a quality-concious business environment... so there's missing a full fledged QA/QC process. If you put a capacitance tester on one, you may find that it meets the 'capacitance value' rating. When you test it for breakover voltage (dc maximum), it may survive acceptably at 2500v... but it can't do both at the same time, thus, when you put it the part in an actual circuit and RUN it, it will internally short as soon as the high-frequency component hits it. Couple this with the fact that the mentality of many repackager-resellers will be 'visually-same = same', one can safely bet that the condenser found in one application, and one found in another, will have come out of the same greasy bucket in some asian sweat-shop... with no concern for the endpoint application.

So if you're gonna work on these old girls, better have lots of 'em on hand. I just put a complete kit in neighbor's Oliver 88, and the condenser was dead-shorted when it came out of the box. Cheap junk is all we can get nowdays.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote JoeO(CMO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 8:36am
bad capacitors?
 
I wish I had all the capacitors I replaced during tune ups on the cars I've had in the past,,,just to be cool!  I would have a good assortment to pull from.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 8:56am
You guys run that low cost stuff I don't and will not install it if the customer asks for it. I had a good customer bring in his D17 just last week, said it needed a carb repaired because it just didn't start/run right so I put on the old dwell meter dwell was all over the place then checked the timing it too was all over the place, called to let him know what I found just to here "well that can't be what's wrong I just tuned her up" I  installed a good set of points and condenser, set the dwell and set timing all is good now. The owner was mad as heII that the parts he just installed were junk, went back to tractor supply just to here no warty on part after they are installed.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 8:59am
Nope...once you install them or have them installed, it's your baby! Another reason I get the best first! ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 9:03am
Rick, I’m not disputing anything you said. You purchased a quality item and probably paid a little more. I’d do exactly the same.

Dave, the seminars on QC I attended always stated that quality must be built in, not inspected in. The main reason I’ve seen caps fail was the electrolytic breaking down. This is usually caused by poor construction that lets moisture in or just plain cheap electrolytic material. A paper capacitor should last years and years, not months.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 10:09am
In a paper capacitor like the ignition condenser, the material between the metal plates is the DIELECTRIC not electrolye. In electrolytic capacitors, the electrolyte is conductive and effectively one of the metal plates. There is metal in the electrolytic capacitors and the combination of aluminum foil and the electrolyte forms a very thin aluminum oxide layer on the foil to be the dielectric when DC voltage is applied after assembly. When an aluminum electrolytic capacitor is not used for a few years the electrolyte eats away at the aluminum oxide, hence old aluminum electrolytic capacitors need to be reformed by slow application of DC or simply scrapped for their old age.

The use of paper for dielectric has often been enhanced by adding oil, but at least one brand of oiled paper capacitors used at Collins in ham gear in the 60s was leaky when new and got leakier with age. Leaky being with DC voltage applied there was DC current. That was often caused by contaminants in the kraft paper. Today most capacitors of that size and voltage rating use a plastic like polyester for the dielectric and it can be better than oiled kraft paper, IF the maker is careful about assembly. The capacitor is made from long strips of foil and dielectric stacked in a layer of four elements, one dielectric, one foil, another dielectric, and another foil, then rolled into a cylinder. In old designs a pair of wire leads can be inserted in the roll to contact each of the foil strips. I some modern designs the foils are offset so on opposite sides of the dielectric strips the edge of each foil sticks out beyond the dielectric (on opposite ends of the roll) and the external wire leads are welded to the extended foil. A lot better for high frequency operation, much less effective inductance.

Capacitors are still used in ALL electronics, but aren't so often made of foil and dielectric rolled up but are made of ceramic and metal layers for surface mount with very thin dielectric and metal layers. Aluminum electrolytics are still fundamental parts in power supplies, though for other audio applications tantalum electrolytics are often used for being more compact and more reliable in the long run. Oiled paper dielectrics have mostly been abandoned in electronics but foil and plastic dielectrics like polyester and teflon are in use occasionally.

The poor quality ignition condensers are probably still made of oiled kraft paper and foil.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 10:10am
Doug...I'm with you and I agree. I guess I was just stating WHY I buy from certain guys that have the better parts. Anyway, we're on the same page. :) Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 10:31am
Very informative information, greatly appreciated. My only "wonder" was if a condenser could be ohmed on the parts counter against several others and take one that closest read the same as others,assuming one will be WAY off. Thanks again for all the info above!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 10:37am
In the 'grand scheme of things' there can't be a huge demand or market for Kettering ignition condensers... since 99% of the engines today are either fuel injected or diesel. There's probably one or two companies making them ?? Say you made 100,000 of them..how long to sell at a $1 ? Even if ALL the A-C guys here bought 5...the warehouse would be full. Also consider that a quality part could be good for 15,20 years. How many would you ever buy ?
There's also the 'convert to electronic ignition' crowd....if 1/4 of the tractors are 'upgraded', well... the MFR has lost 1/4 of the market !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Very informative information, greatly appreciated. My only "wonder" was if a condenser could be ohmed on the parts counter against several others and take one that closest read the same as others,assuming one will be WAY off. Thanks again for all the info above!
All you'll see when you put the leads of an ohmmeter to a good capacitor is a momentary movement of the needle. You really can't tell anything relating to the value of the cap from that. Of course if it shows a constant resistance or short you'd know you have a bad capacitor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 1:15pm
Thumbs Up THANKS,figured that would be too easy. LOL!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 2:41pm
The ohmmeter test on a capacitor gives very little information. Its a low voltage test so it doesn't detect insulation breakdown in the dielectric that in ignition condensers is the main mode of failure. It also doesn't test for the capacitance which needs to be right for the coil to get good point life. It takes an AC test for the capacitance, and a high voltage test for the leakage or insulation breakdown, probably at over 400 volts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 12:38am
Originally posted by DougS DougS wrote:

Dave, the seminars on QC I attended always stated that quality must be built in, not inspected in. The main reason I’ve seen caps fail was the electrolytic breaking down. This is usually caused by poor construction that lets moisture in or just plain cheap electrolytic material. A paper capacitor should last years and years, not months.


You're entirely correct about 'built in', not 'inspected in'... however, this is the premise of GOOD AND PROPER production philosophy... something that our common-shelf asian-sourced parts do NOT abide by... and frankly, they don't even 'inspect' it in.

And Gerald is correct- it's the dielectric breaking down which causes most issues.

Finding good parts is difficult in many cases... and most of the time, if it's not available through a domestic producer, you'll find that the quality is poor. Reason for this, is because they no longer have competition. If they sell a bad part, and you buy it, it doesn't matter wether it actually works- it sold anyway.

Edited by DaveKamp - 13 Dec 2017 at 12:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 9:24am
re:
something that our common-shelf asian-sourced parts do NOT abide by

I have to say that an 'engine hoist hydraulic' cylinder that was bought 4 years ago held a 350SB/350tranny up 4' off the ground for over 2 years, didn't drop at all. So some things are built to very high standards. It seems once they get it 'dialed in', they can make a lot of things very,very well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 9:34am
It depends on what countries you are calling Asian. Japan built absolutely cheap junk in the 50's. They build the best of the lot now. Korea - my personal verdict is still out on that country. Taiwan built fairly good stuff before. Now they're officially a part of China, builder of junk. China itself always took shortcuts. The dog food they sent us was poison. The sheetrock they sent us rotted our pipes and gave us cancer. They poisoned their own children with their milk. The capacitors they put in motherboards for Dell computers failed on a massive scale in less than two years. I cringe when I see Made in China, but sometimes there is no alternative.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 1:08pm
Doug, do NOT look under the hood of newer Dodge pickups ! I'll just say...upper rad hose.... and leave it at that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 4:28pm
Rick, thanks for the Kudo's buddy. Its appreciated. One thing I must say, our E.I. sales went up a whole lot the past 4-5 years mainly because of the Chinese ignition junk that's flooded the aftermarket. A lot of folks are tired of making a career of tuning up their Tractors. Once in a great while we'll experience a bad condenser, but its usually pretty rare. (so far) We've been a Standard Ignition dealer since 1970, and stick with the Blue Streak line of tune-up parts for our Antique Car customer's as well as our Tractor customer's. Although now a days, it is tough not to install an E.I. and forget about it. One thing I do want to add here, when installing an E.I., according to Pertronix, they suggest you run suppression spark plug wires with their E.I. kits now because they've found that a stray spike from a solid core set of spark plug wires can take out the electronic module. I always ask our customer's when I'm rebuilding their Distributor or building a Mag to Distributor conversion that if they want to add the E.I. to the kit, I'll build them a set of suppression wires to go with our kit from now on. This way it eliminates a problem that could happen down the road to the Electronic Module. Just taking precautions.... We still carry a complete line of HD tune-up parts in stock yet though...
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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