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TimZ(TX) 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Schulenburg, TX
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 Topic: 185 oil on exhaust
Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:44pm |
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2-B's,CA,D15,D17,160,2-185's 8010
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TimZ(TX)
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Location: Schulenburg, TX
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Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:46pm |
Ran the tractor at idle for about 30 minutes. Didn't notice until the next day. Any ideas what might cause that. Thanks for any ideas. Tim
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2-B's,CA,D15,D17,160,2-185's 8010
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 9:06pm |
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Common on some engines that ideals for long time. MACK
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ksbowman
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Location: Paola, Ks
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Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 9:39pm |
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Valve cover gasket leaking. Check the valve cover bolts for correct torque.
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rustydollar
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Location: Manitoba
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Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 10:24pm |
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Based on running the engine at low rpm for an extended period, I'm placing my bet on injector nozzles are dribbling - leaking.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 11:06pm |
 MACK wrote:
Common on some engines that ideals for long time. MACK |
I'm with Mack don't idle that long or if you need to let it idle bump it up 200 or 300 rpm's more and it will help on fuel slobber out the ex.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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MACK
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 7:40am |
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We left a new 185 idle all night (by accident). It had at least a cup of oil-fuel on floor next morning. MACK
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DMiller
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 7:51am |
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I kick my 180 up to around a thousand rpm for sitting at idle and NO it is NOT good to find oil coming out of the muffler down the exhaust manifold.
Is a sign of weepage from rings or valve guides as to getting oil out the exhaust. Too cold, as in low idle speed or too much bypass oil after running awhile: valve guide seals, or piston rings weak and the engine unable to burn the excess oil off.
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rustydollar
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 11:45am |
MACK wrote:
We left a new 185 idle all night (by accident). It had at least a cup of oil-fuel on floor next morning. MACK |
Mack an overnighter I would agree but with only 30 minutes the slobber is excessive. If it were me I would pull the injectors and have them rebuilt and calibrated. A the plus side rebuilt injectors will improve engine starting and performance in addition to noticeable fuel savings with less emissions. If the OP wants to save some coin, purchase the new nozzles then self install and have a diesel shop calibrate the injectors. Our local shop charged me $20.00 per injector.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 12:06pm |
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It's unburned FUEL that is mixed with the soot inside the exhaust manifold. It is not motor oil. Spend $$$ if you want on the injectors, but I say quit idling it when the engine isn't up to operating temp and you won't see it again. It's common to see this in Winter months with cold temps and no load on the engine to ever warm it up properly.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 2:38pm |
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When I'm leaning on the counter at work waiting for my next assignment, I tell them to hurry up, I can't idle too long or I will start wet stacking and slobbering out the exhaust.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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TimZ(TX)
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 8:50pm |
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AS far as idling in the cold it was 80 degrees. Had a weak battery so I was letting it run while we were loading a dump trailer with brush. I think I'm going to pull head and have it redone along with the injectors. May end up doing an in frame overhaul. Just had the pump redone and it still runs bad. Don't know how many hours. Has an aftermarket tach with 3500hrs showing.
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2-B's,CA,D15,D17,160,2-185's 8010
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MACK
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 9:55pm |
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If it does not use oil and starts ok, I would not spend my money on a in frame job. Better to spend your money on pump and injectors if you want it to sound better. MACK
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rustydollar
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Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 11:14pm |
TimZ(TX) wrote:
AS far as idling in the cold it was 80 degrees. Had a weak battery so I was letting it run while we were loading a dump trailer with brush. I think I'm going to pull head and have it redone along with the injectors. May end up doing an in frame overhaul. Just had the pump redone and it still runs bad. Don't know how many hours. Has an aftermarket tach with 3500hrs showing. |
There's your answer, rebuilt pump. Mechanical Injectors have a needle valve under spring pressure, when the injection pump sends fuel to that injector the pressure is high enough to lift the needle valve. Needle valve spring pressure is adjusted with shims, depending on what shims were used will determine the opening pressure of the needle valve. When the needle valve is forced open fuel is forced through the small holes in the injector nozzle. Over time the small holes in the nozzles wear, sometimes become blocked with carbon, nozzle spring pressure deteriorates over time. They need a tune up. Your old injectors are not able to handle the pressure from the rebuilt pump. Like Mack said if she's not burning oil, spend your money on the pump and injectors your more than half ways there with the pump already rebuilt. American and Canadian shops usually will not sell injector parts to private individuals but with the Internet Europe is not that far away. Rebuild kits for both my Mitsubishi Pajero and Massey 35 both came from the UK.
Edited by rustydollar - 01 Nov 2017 at 11:15pm
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 8:11am |
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Like others have said, if it starts good when engine is cold, and doesn't use oil to excess, then not much reason to overhaul. But, it you pull the injectors, and while they are out, perform a compression test, and that will give you a better idea on the condition of the engine. The actual number isn't as important here as the uniform readings across all 6 cylinders. A good diesel engine should pump around 350 psi with all injectors out, and a battery charger hooked up, per Dr Allis reminder. Those injectors are screw adjusted, and there's more to doing injector rebuild than just sticking a new tip in the injector.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Dan (SE MI)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 10:53am |
I agree with the others, go after the injectors first. It sounds like they were going to be in your rebuild plan anyhow. If that doesn't fix it, you won't be out anything additional if you end up going with a full rebuild. I don't think injector tips would be too hard to come by if you want to do them yourself. A few years ago our Agco dealer had a set on the shelf they would have gladly sold me. I would imagine that would still be the case. I ended up having those rebuilt at the local shop we normally use. I doubt I would have saved much, if any, had I rebuilt them myself and dropped them off for calibration.
Edited by Dan (SE MI) - 02 Nov 2017 at 10:54am
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rustydollar
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 12:29pm |
injpumpEd wrote:
Like others have said, if it starts good when engine is cold, and doesn't use oil to excess, then not much reason to overhaul. But, it you pull the injectors, and while they are out, perform a compression test, and that will give you a better idea on the condition of the engine. The actual number isn't as important here as the uniform readings across all 6 cylinders. A good diesel engine should pump around 350 psi with all injectors out, and a battery charger hooked up, per Dr Allis reminder. Those injectors are screw adjusted, and there's more to doing injector rebuild than just sticking a new tip in the injector. |
Yea having a good ultrasonic cleaner helps clean up disassembled injectors which is way more than they had in the field during WWII. For the Allis Chalmers collector there is a current auction for an AC Buda injector pop tester that comes adaptors. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Allis-Chalmers-Buda-Diesel-Fuel-Injector-Nozzle-Tester/361042653118?hash=item540fd1afbe:g:0r4AAOSwbqpT9~-Y 
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Edited by rustydollar - 02 Nov 2017 at 12:43pm
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