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cnafarms 
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Joined: 01 Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
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 Topic: Rough running D19
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 5:45pm |
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Have a D19. Was missing a little bit so changed plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap, rotor button and coil. Gaps on points and plugs are set to specs in operators manual. Starts right up and sounds good for about 10 minutes then starts missing and spurting again. So I'm guessing next step would be to clean the carb. Any suggestions from the experts on here.
Thanks
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Rick
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jonesburg,Mo.
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 5:50pm |
Could have something to do with the gas part of it, but I wouldn't totally rule out the new condenser. Some are pure junk...Rick
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cnafarms
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 5:57pm |
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Well I'm not saying the points or condenser are or aren't junk. Went to Agco and got them. Made in the US so they aren't the cheap china junk.
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orange-is-power
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 7:44pm |
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If you pull the choke out slightly does it smooth out any?
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cnafarms
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 7:50pm |
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No the choke doesn't help it at all. Tried doing that just still missing and spurting. Checked the timing with a light seems to be perfectly or at least with my eyes in time
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 8:20pm |
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Check the valves to make sure one of the intakes isn't too tight.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 8:26pm |
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Also check to see if the intake manifold is sealed to the head good.Spray a little ether where the manifold goes against the head when its running, if the engine speeds up there is a leak.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 9:25pm |
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I would start by going through the fuel system - clean out tank, sediment bowl, carb, gas line, then refill with FRESH gas from a station - not a barrel on the farm.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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DougS
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Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 10:00pm |
Sticky valve or valve set too tight. If it were fuel the problem would show up when the engine is cold and needs more fuel. It could be the coil, but I'd assume you took care of that when you changed the coil. Manifold gasket could be the problem, but again I'd assume the problem would be worse when the engine is cold and the metal hasn't expanded and tightened things up. One electrical thing you could check it the supply voltage to the coil. Check it when the engine is cold and again when hot. As Rick said, you could be dealing with another bad condenser. Replacing a bad part with a new defective part will make you scratch your heat.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 6:33am |
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some things to do...
remove gas tank cap and retest....
if it runs fine, cap is blocked causing a vacuum stopping gas from getting to carb
shine LED light into tank, check for crud or bugs that semi-float then block the exit port
remove sediment bowl screen, carefully clean and replace
remove gasline at carb,put 2-5 gallon bucket under it, then open petcock and let gas flow out. should be a good solid flow.FILL the bucket ! A 20 second test ain't good enough. Let bucket sit for 2-3 hrs, ANY water in the bottom ?
hmm 10 minutes.... will it restart immediatley or do you have to wait say 10-15 minutes ? if it restarts immediately that eliminates the new coil. but check for spark anyway. Unlikely a bad ballast resistor as they tend to 'open' when they die not 'self heal'.
missing and sputtering does sound more 'gas' related than electrical.
Jay
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Lonn
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 8:48am |
What number spark plugs are you running? I worked on a 706 gas once that acted like that. It had new plugs in it but it ran awful after a few minutes. Turns out that the Napa book says to use D21 plugs but the IH book called for the cooler D16 plugs. Slapped in D16s and the problem was solved. A D19 should use N5 Champion or equivalent. Some of the new cross reference books are wrong and say either N8 or N9. Those are the old numbers the new equivalent numbers are different.
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DougS
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 9:13am |
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I sincerely hope you aren't running Champions in it.
Edited by DougS - 12 Aug 2017 at 9:13am
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ACjack
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 9:53am |
 DougS wrote:
I sincerely hope you aren't running Champions in it.
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Can't say that Champion plugs are good or bad nowadays but, did you know that they were the factory plug during the 70's. 
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cnafarms
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 9:58am |
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They are the champion spark plugs N5
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Rick
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 11:03am |
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I've found out that the D19's...all four of them that I have, run better on Champion plugs than any other plug out there. I use the N5C plugs all the time...
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 11:31am |
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Check the gas cap and the fuel pump, and run a compression test.
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JC-WI
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Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 3:21pm |
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I don't know about a D19, But I can tell you several true stories about
champions in WD's, D17 tractors and a few in chevrolet cars... and the stories are NOT favorable to the champion plug... and were replaced with A-C plugs
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