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FREEDGUY 
Orange Level Access
Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
Points: 5396
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 Topic: F2 Unloading auger
Posted: 11 Jul 2017 at 10:01pm |
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For those of you with a swivel unload tube on a Gleaner, do you roll the tube in after every dump? I am referring to dumping on the end rows and emptying the auger. Dad rolls it in every time but I feel it is too hard on chain,sprocket and bearing balls. Am I making a big deal out of nothing? Thanks
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MACK
Orange Level
Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664
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Posted: 11 Jul 2017 at 10:17pm |
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You had better roll it back in unless you want to pick it up off the ground or off the hood of that new truck. MACK
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FREEDGUY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
Points: 5396
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Posted: 11 Jul 2017 at 10:30pm |
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Point taken,but I'm not telling Dad. Thanks. BTW, how do guys that unload on the go get away with keeping their tube out full of grain? They can't get auger empty to swivel in can they?
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DennisA (IL)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ridott IL.
Points: 2064
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Posted: 11 Jul 2017 at 11:06pm |
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The newer combines maybe made better to handle the auger being out full of grain. A know that with an F, F2, M & M2 it's very hard on the drive as the grain works it way down and packs tight. Then when the auger is engage the clutch slips trying to turn the auger. The other reason is simple. The risk of hitting trees, poles, buildings or whatever is around. I have fixed the farms unloading augers many times on every combine they have owned. They always seem to hit something. Once you fix an auger assy that has been ripped off an R62 you will not for get it.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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AC7060IL
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Joined: 19 Aug 2012
Location: central IL
Points: 3511
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Posted: 12 Jul 2017 at 4:55pm |
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Over the decades, I've replaced numerous unloading pivots, drive belts, drive pulleys, universal joints, auger flightings, & auger tubes on the f & smaller series combines. Can't speak for the M & larger ones (rotor type). It's best not to unload on the go with the smaller combines. They should be stopped as their design isn't beefy enough to support shock loads while moving across field. Winterizing their pivots (disassembly, clean-out, & greasing) is crucial. Newer nylon pivots require grease zerks.
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GM Guy
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Joined: 31 Jul 2012
Location: NW KS / S.C. ID
Points: 1985
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Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 11:48pm |
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rotting grain in the elbow joint is what causes damage and wear, not folding it in and out alot.
if you clean it our perfectly and its nice and dry and clean, you will get many, many good years out of it.
ALWAYS fold back a gleaner powerfold auger, the only augers designed to stay out are the old manual augers on F series, G, A, E, C, K, etc.
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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matador
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Joined: 10 Nov 2014
Location: Wyoming
Points: 1727
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Posted: 21 Jul 2017 at 11:52pm |
We keep our F2 auger out in the field, but there's nothing to hit out here, and we unload into 200bu wagons so no clearance problems.
As for the belt slipping when unloading, we made a fix for that. Just take two pieces of metal the width of the grain tank, and bolt them to the piece that goes over the horizontal unloading auger in the tank so they cover part of the opening. These "restrictor plates" have completely solved any belt slipping problems for us
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shameless dude
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Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13607
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Posted: 22 Jul 2017 at 2:51am |
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both my "G"s had adjustable restrictor tins over the inside unload auger. the belt also has a tensioner on it too.
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