![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
D17 IV PTO |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
gerkendave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2013 Location: York, Nebraska Points: 568 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 18 Jun 2017 at 7:44pm |
Hey everyone! Finally settled on a d17 IV. Tractor runs great but it does have a couple problems. First up is the PTO lever is broken off the shaft. If I were to buy a new shaft and oring is it possible to replace without splitting the tractor? The parts breakdown on the Agco parts book doesn't show too many pieces looks like if I could get someone to hold the internals in place I could slide the shaft out and then put the new one back in. Is this possible? The other problem is it flood easily. Once flooded it takes a ton of cranking to get it to fire. Once running it runs super smooth. Any ideas?
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7495 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Regarding the PTO lever, believe it or not, it would be much easier to split the tractor to install the new lever/shaft. Yes, it takes time to split, but it is not hard. You will need to knock out the roll pin which holds the old shaft in place. Before that pin comes out, you will need something/someone to hold the detent assembly in place. If not, your job just got harder. Without splitting the tractor, you might as well start humming the theme to Mission Impossible as the detent assembly is very hard to reach through the inspection cover.
About the flooding, it sounds like you just need to tweek your carb. Since you just got the tractor, I would recommend giving it a good cleaning out first (in addition to the gas tank). Good luck. The Series IV is the D17 to have. I have a gas and diesel, love them both. |
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
![]() |
|
DON G ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Feb 2014 Location: Lowpoint, IL Points: 413 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7495 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes it can be welded, but the heat would destroy the O ring causing oil to constantly leak from that location. So you would end up having to split the tractor to replace the O ring anyway. |
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
![]() |
|
Josh(NE) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 510 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/fixing-pto-lever-and-pd-lever-leaks_topic75562.htmlFollow the Dr's orders, worked for me one my 170.
|
|
Allis Express
'65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake |
|
![]() |
|
Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 992 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Our lever broke on our D17 IV about 20 years ago and it was welded in place. O-ring just started to leak a couple years ago and we split the tractor to replace the o-ring. Not difficult to split and fix.
Edited by Stan R - 19 Jun 2017 at 6:00am |
|
![]() |
|
Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3073 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Any way to drill the center of the shaft that's still there and thread it? Also brazing
would create less heat on the shaft than electric welding if you went that route. |
|
![]() |
|
gerkendave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2013 Location: York, Nebraska Points: 568 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Finally had time today to tackle the PTO lever on the 17. All I can say is what a pain in the a**!!! BUT... I did get it done without splitting the tractor, that solid drive pin was a real B to get out though! Had the wife's help pulling the remains of the old shaft out and sliding the new assembly in. Works like a champ now! Thanks for the tips and tricks!
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |