B Trans Input Shaft Question

It all depends on what you have to work with.

If you have a good engine lift and proper blocking or jack stands it is not real hard. You need to remove the bolts from the foot rests to the fender rails as well as the four bolts thru the torque tube into the transmission case. It would be best to have the gas tank empty or removed to keep the weight balance for the engine lift. You need to have the new/different good drive shaft into the clutch/flywheel first and then replace the cotter key thru a narrow opening just before replacing the four bolts. I tool my pictures to show what I was doing. Not as step by step on how to.

You end up looking like the picture.









Edited by Dick L - 16 Jun 2017 at 4:02pm

After you split the torque tube from the transmission nothing holds the shaft in as long as the cotter key is out. If the splines have been stripped you would not have a cotter key holding it. The shaft can not slide out forward when split at the engine unless the throw out bearing assembly is removed. Chances are on a B you would have a larger U joint which would not come forward even with the assembly removed.   

CrestonM wrote: So...you're saying it's usually the torque tube shaft that strips out, and not the stub shaft sticking out of the transmission?

Correct! I did have some damage to my stub shaft. I decided to use a grade 5/16" bolt rather than weld it up and recut it even though it was not all that bad.

You can see some of the damage in this picture.