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7580 PTO Driveline Removal

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GM Guy View Drop Down
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Joined: 31 Jul 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7580 PTO Driveline Removal
    Posted: 03 Jun 2017 at 5:50pm
Hey all,

I have a bad slip joint in my 7580's PTO driveline, and need to remove it to get it rebuilt.

I was wanting to ask you guys, do I need to have the tractor turned at all, or is straight ahead just fine?

Normally I wouldnt ask, but I have a bad leak in a hyd. oil cooler and i am removing at the same time, and I dont want to have it all apart and find out I needed to have it turned.
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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tbran View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2017 at 11:53pm
There used to be a cardan jack shaft kit for these to eliminate the CV joint. Might be worth checking into.
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2017 at 7:39am
GM if you look into the cardan jack shaft let me know what you find out.
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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GM Guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2017 at 3:47pm
The previous owners were quite proud they greased it daily, and I continue the trend. Amazingly the CVs are in great shape, just the slip joints are sloppy, so i think I will keep the CV setup and just have the slip joints replaced.

My dad picked up a 78 7580, and they converted it over to a home brew setup with a welded in crossmember and carrier bearing. I am not sure of what to think of it, probably better in flat land conditions, but at max turn and going through some terrain, I am worried it will have trouble.


Edited by GM Guy - 04 Jun 2017 at 3:49pm
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Mike Kroupa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Kroupa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2017 at 9:03pm
Most of the 7580/8550's around here locally had both drive shafts converted to the two piece hanger bearing style. I over greased both of the shafts on my 8550 but over time the slip yoke splines did wear. One important thing to note is that the two piece style runs a lot smoother and is less apt to affect the pto drop box bearings. I have the parts list somewhere if anyone is interested. , Mike
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2017 at 7:29am
I remember, years ago, helping a guy put the hanger bearing in on his 8550. I guess I didn't realize that when changing to a hanger bearing, you no longer use CV joints. Both my 8550, and 7580 still have CV joints. Guess in my mind, I'd have thought that CV joints would have been a better option. From what I'm hearing here, the hanger bearing with no CV joint is better? Right now, we are pulling the air seeder with the 8550, thus taxing the hydraulic pump pretty heavily, which in turn puts a steady load on the shaft going through the hinge, and we grease the drivelines daily, or else they start to chatter when turning. Wonder if changing over would be a good option for me. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2017 at 9:47am
Mike Kroupa, so was this an Allis Campaign, or a home brew solution?



So does anyone know if the drivelines will come out without having the tractor articulated one way or the other?
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2017 at 10:09am
I hate to give advice when I'm not 100% sure but I seem to remember mine was straight when we installed the shafts.  It might be easier if the machine is slightly turned, just to make working on it a bit easier.  Personally, I think the drive line system is NOT one of AC's better ideas...
"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Mike Kroupa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Kroupa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2017 at 8:44pm
They were advertised in the back pages of farm magazines. A-C did not design or promote it. When the 4W series came out, someone made their own version of that design. At the time parts for the driveline from A-C were very high and I suspect this also drove the need for a new design, with off the self components. The thing to remember though is on the 4W series the pto driveline turns considerably slower than the 75/85 series tractors. You will still get some vibration during full left or right turns but pulling "straight" the shaft runs true and no vibration. I have the handwritten parts list that I used to fabricate mine. I will try to post it sometime. , Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2017 at 7:45am
the splined sections of shaft and tube can be cut off and replaced by a truck or driveline shop much cheaper with common truck shaft than the oe  splined sections.  we are running the cv joints and replaced splines on our tractors.  the 7580 had that carrier bearing driveline on the bottom and we replaced it with an original style  when it went bad.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2017 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by darrel in ND darrel in ND wrote:

I remember, years ago, helping a guy put the hanger bearing in on his 8550. I guess I didn't realize that when changing to a hanger bearing, you no longer use CV joints. Both my 8550, and 7580 still have CV joints. Guess in my mind, I'd have thought that CV joints would have been a better option. From what I'm hearing here, the hanger bearing with no CV joint is better? Right now, we are pulling the air seeder with the 8550, thus taxing the hydraulic pump pretty heavily, which in turn puts a steady load on the shaft going through the hinge, and we grease the drivelines daily, or else they start to chatter when turning. Wonder if changing over would be a good option for me. Darrel

Yesterday, I talked to the guy that I helped put the hanger bearing drive line into his 8550. He said he went away from the CV joint and to the hanger bearing type 100 per cent due to economics. The CV had gone out, and it was cheaper to put in the hanger bearing type driveline. He said it did not make an improvement, and if anything, chattered a little worse when turning. With that, I guess I am going to continue to grease the drivelines on mine very faithfully, and hope that they last. Darrel
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2017 at 2:22pm
whats silly is you can buy a new cv joint for less money than getting an old one rebuilt
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SLee(IA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 12:10am
Here is the parts list from Mike Kroupa.
Steve
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