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Ken in Texas 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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 Topic: CA Steering Locked Up
Posted: 25 May 2017 at 7:48pm |
Straight ahead Removed Link assembly Ross Box seems OK steering arm will not move forward or backward in the front support bolster. Pulled the Fork. the box was totally full of grease . This is a SFW CA With the fork out and all the grease washed out the steering arm is stuck fast. To get into the front support I must remove the big nut holding the 9 tooth segmented steering arm gear next. BIG old Hex Nut. need to find a big socket. CAN I PECK IT OFF TAPPING THE CORNERS OF THE BIG HEX NUT??? I was hopeing to find C or CA used parts for a fix but No C or CA narrow front internal parts match CA SFW insides, Any HELP from anyone who has been there and done this fix would be appreciated. KEN Nothin I do with wrenches is easy any more since this bad cancer has weakened my upper body strength by 75%
Edited by Ken in Texas - 26 May 2017 at 6:12am
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18943
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 8:38pm |
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Sorry I can't help you Ken but,,,,,,,,,,
It's GREAT to hear from you!!!
For all that you have done for others on here, I'm sure someone will help you out!
Praying for you everyday...
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson Cnty,GA
Points: 6554
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 8:48pm |
Ken, great to see your post on here. Still lifting you up in prayer and was wondering the other day how you were doing. Hang tough and get some of your strength back. Until then use a longer cheater bar on those wrenches. Don't know squat about a sfw CA but I am sure someone on here has done some work on one. Harbor Freight sells some big sockets that are good for one time use, unless you need one over 3 inches they will probably have it in a set.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
Points: 3974
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 8:56pm |
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According to the parts manual the 9 tooth comb gear is the same on all CAs narrow , wide and SFW. The C uses a Differant gear because the shaft is a smaller size. You can however bolt a CA pedestal to a C bolster.I did on mine. Once you get the gear off and spray some deep creap or FreeAll in there drive the shaft out and you should be able to free it up. That bolster is suppose to have oil in it grease won't properly lube it since it can't flow to beat between the shaft and bushing. I took one apart that wouldn't move when it put the big wrench with Cheeper bar and wacked it with a hammer it freed up. I dissasembled cleaned the bushing withe ray cloth and wire brushed the shaft it moved freely. Lubed and reassembled it still working 15 years later.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gallatin,TN
Points: 10876
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 9:10pm |
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Ken, good to see you working . I use a big combination wrench on that nut. Is your single front fork bolted to the output carrier? I have never seen a steering arm freeze up on a CA. Oil should go into the front support. Now would be a good time to replace the seal in lower part that rides against carrier. The nut has a staked dimple into keyway IIRR. Good luck and God Bless!
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:19pm |
Not much printed material on steering removing , repair and replace. almost nothing I'm lucky to have a 1955 printing of a original CA parts catalog to see what you should expect . I see that dimple Tracy but no part or part number for a keyway. there is a SN Brake in the nut mine being a 53 is above 16089. I hope the pinion is good . A NF pinion has a different part # than a single front and WF adjustable
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Ken in Texas
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Location: Henderson, TX
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:35pm |
With the fork out would it hurt to tip the bolster just right and pour the housing full of penetrating oil and try to brake the arm loose. it's off the tractor so I I can speedy sleeve the crank seal too. If ! can pull the crank pully It leaked oil since it came home with me.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gallatin,TN
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:42pm |
 Ken in Texas wrote:
Not much printed material on steering removing , repair and replace. almost nothing I'm lucky to have a 1955 printing of a original CA parts catalog to see what you should expect . I see that dimple Tracy but no part or part number for a keyway. there is a SN Brake in the nut mine being a 53 is above 16089. I hope the pinion is good . A NF pinion has a different part # than a single front and WF adjustable |
Ken, the keyway is just a groove to stake the nut into IIRR. HTH Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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corbinstein
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Joined: 31 Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:05am |
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Good to hear from you KEN! I'm still using the Loader Cylinders you gave me....
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013
Location: New mexico
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:52am |
Hey Ken,,,,,I don't know A THING bout the C's, Ca's except they are AC's,,,,but it's ""GOOD"" to hear from you on here. Take care of yourself,,,and use them cheater bars all you can,,,,, 
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Tracy Martin TN
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Location: Gallatin,TN
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 11:58am |
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Ken, let us know how you come out.If I were closer I would fix it for you.God Bless! Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 12:28pm |
Got every thing working like new and getting the whole works back together. As little as I will be pulling, these quick fixes should last a long time. After finding some weight tickets for 2400 I may loose a bunch of iron and water and go as light as I can for a while 32400
Edited by Ken in Texas - 26 May 2017 at 12:38pm
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 3:32pm |
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Hi Ken, I don't know how I have been missing this. Glad you have it back together.
I had my C cross arm in the front bolster lock up. I drilled and tapped the housing at the center area and put a grease zerk in. When it starts to get stiff I pump some grease in it.
When I had the shaft out I ran a brake cylinder home in it and it still started to get stiff after a while. That was when I drilled it for a zerk. It has a gap between bushing in that area and I let the drill go thru and hit the shaft and used grease on the tap to hold/catch the chips.
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Ken in Texas
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Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 5:29pm |
Great idea Diick Thanks DickL Knowing I can drill and tap the housing without worrying about what to do about metal shavings sounds good. Having all I need on hand to put a grease zerk in if the shaft gets tight down the road sounds good. Some PO had replaced the bushings . When I got the shaft out there were no spaces between the bushings and seal on the shaft. Cleaned up like new. When I got the CA the oil plug had been replaced with a grease zerk. Ran lots of years before drying out and getting tight Have you been doing OK. Think about you often. Wished we lived closer together. Ken
Edited by Ken in Texas - 26 May 2017 at 5:33pm
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:12pm |
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Still meaner than a rattler but not near as predictable. Every day on the top side is a good day.
I was wondering about you as well.
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