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Leon B MO 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
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 Topic: WD45 motor wont run except at idle?
Posted: 20 May 2017 at 11:39am |
I've been working on this problem off on on for several weeks when I have time. This is a complete engine overhaul, carb professionally rebuilt, good compression (110-115) on all cylinders. Good full stream of fuel to carb. New coil, points and condenser. It will start and idle but as soon as I try to throttle up, it acts like it starving for fuel, pops, misses and dies. The initial start up after rebuild was ok, ran for 15 minutes, everything was fine, shut it off. The next time I started it I was going try everything else out, trans, brakes, clutch and so on. It ran about 3 minutes, sputtered, died and hasn't run right since. I had the governor off thinking I had a problem there, didn't see anything wrong. I did try a spare carb with same result. What am I missing? Appreciate any thought or suggestions. Leon B
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
Points: 2490
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 11:51am |
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Does fuel flow freely when you remove the plug at the bottom of the carb?
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:01pm |
Yes. Also makes no difference with air breather hose off the carb. Leon B
Edited by Leon B MO - 20 May 2017 at 12:06pm
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Driverdan
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Joined: 21 Feb 2015
Location: Owego,NY
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:37pm |
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I had similar problem on WD45. Found problem was loose screw holding condenser. Tightened screw and problem was fixed... May be something to check... Dan
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:46pm |
I will definitely pull the cover and have a look. I keep thinking it's electric but when I check for spark, it looks ok. I was wondering about the spark advance. Thanks Leon B
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:48pm |
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I can't help but think the main jet is clogged. Try turning the screw out, counting turns as you do.
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dawntreader74
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Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Location: Manteno
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:55pm |
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it will do that if its getting hot' if it's 180 off timming ? will start an run but won't run long' check #1 top dead center' see wear the rotter is pointing. should point to #1 cyl?
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:56pm |
Had it at 1.25 turns to begin with and adjusting in or out doesn't help attain higher rpm's. Leon B
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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LeonR2013
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Joined: 01 Jan 2013
Location: Fulton, Mo
Points: 3500
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 1:39pm |
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Did you reuse the old plugs? Can do it, even if they're only a month old. Will it go ahead and die if you back the throttle off real quick? Can you ease into it and keep running? Put a timing light on it. Check every one. May have two wires crossed. It will still start if you do.
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45 turboa-
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Joined: 04 Feb 2012
Location: coral city wi
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 1:49pm |
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Try your old condenser or get a different one.Also different points first .
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turbocharged
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 1:59pm |
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Forgot to mentioned if you checked the ventura? If loose or cracked it will lose draft.
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 20 May 2017 at 9:15pm |
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Check for good flow of fuel at carburetor, and drain a quart out of it like that and see if it is as fast at the end of the quart as at the beginning.
Leon, he said he tried a different carb too and acted the same... unless he overhauled that carb the same way this carb got overhauled... that is if he did a carb job.
I hate when a fellow works so hard to repair or rebuild something only to have gremlins come popping up. Overhauled a studebacker engine with genuine parts from an old Studebaker dealership. Total engine rebuild and new gaskets and new carb kit and fuel pump etc. Started it up and sounded real nice as I pushed the choke in and had it in all the way and heat gauge was going up to normal and ...'PING' and the engine started stutterin and had to pull the choke out to make it run... GRR!! tried to find what made the ping and everything checked out good... except it started leaking gas into the crankcase... new diaphram was leaking... changed it out for the old one... but wasn't the real problem... truck got used the way it was for about 600 miles and got set aside. Now forty years later, I need to go dig that old truck out and jerk that manifold off to see if it had cracked in the heat exchange area...between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.
Leon B. Check the fuel flow first...
Put the old points and condensor back in... and see if that helps...
check the coil and see if it is a resistor coil or not... had a resistor style on an engine that would run on full voltage but switching to reduced voltage, it would start stuttering and die. wait abit it would start again and then do it all again.
Does the engine seem like it gets tight? Specially when you speed it up? Did you check ring gap before putting them in?
Check fuel tank for a floater inside that can cover the outlet hole.
Let us know what you find that caused the problem.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 12:59pm |
Ok, took the points and condenser out that I bought brand new and the tractor ran on them for 15 minutes. Anyway put the old points and condenser in that had been sitting on the healing shelf collecting dust for probably 5 years. The ol gal fires right up and purrs' like a kitten! l had no idea a condenser would act that way, idle fine but cut out as soon as I hit the throttle. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. Taking it now for her maiden voyage. Leon B Mo
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 1:03pm |
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Good to hear and thanks for reply of what the problem really was.
To bad the new frikken condensors are not good and the points made horribly cheap.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Bill_MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Points: 1471
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 1:51pm |
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Exhibit A why electronic ignition is a must-have
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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PaulB
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 1:51pm |
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that's why I use the electronic ignitions in everything, unless you can find NOS ignition parts it's a crapshoot as to weather you will get parts that last more than a couple of minutes or not.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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rojoak
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 1:59pm |
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Glad you found the problem. I had the very same symptoms a few days ago, but mine was the coil. Replaced the coil and it runs and throttles up great!
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45 turboa-
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Joined: 04 Feb 2012
Location: coral city wi
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 3:27pm |
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I kinda figured the condenser was the problem I have run into the same issue a few times I have had the best luck with Standard or blue streak points and condensers. point # is DR2227 or DR2227XP and DR60 cond.
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turbocharged
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 21 May 2017 at 7:01pm |
This 53WD was a complete overhaul from the hand crank to the drawbar. I was in the process of taking the 201 apart when I found a disassembled WD 45 with a rebuilt motor from a fellow that lost interest, so I really had no idea what a had until I got it home and speced it out. Everything checked out very good internaly. Replaced everything, new plugs, wires, coil, points condenser, all new wiring, switches. Thats why I was chasing my tail trying to figure out where the problem was. I couldn't figure out if it was electical, or fuel related or timing. I had a time getting the govenor linkage adjusted right. I was at a loss. I know lots of you guys have converted over to the electronic ignition, I just don't know if it's feasable to switch over with my tractors. I don't put lots of hours on the older line. Believe or not, I converted my 51 mowing CA back to a mag, and it runs better than I've seen it run in 40 years. Now that the WD is up and running, I'll stick with the ol setup. Thanks again to everyone on the site, there's nothing that can't be figured out here. Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 22 May 2017 at 8:36pm |
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When my 57 did that there was crud in the tank. Whats the sediment bulb look like? Any rust or crud? We still had good flow at carb, just died on throttle.
Just a suggestion
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Ted J
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Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:42am |
 45 turboa- wrote:
I kinda figured the condenser was the problem I have run into the same issue a few times I have had the best luck with Standard or blue streak points and condensers. point # is DR2227 or DR2227XP and DR60 cond. |
Paul, what's the difference between the 27 and the 27XP?
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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