My hd5g loader

I am currently trying to rebush my pins on Mt loader reservoirs. Does anyone know how to remove the pins. I don't know if they're drawn in with the rear bolt as a press fit or its like a regular pin on a loader bucket. It's in a spot you can't use a sledge. I can heat it but how can I pull it out? The pin has a hole thru the head ,is this for some type of removal aid?
    Can anyone shed some light on this?

Put photo up of what you are looking at. I think there be some confusion starting.

If you are talking about the pin I think you are. The one inside the frame by the final drive.  You are looking at part of the undercarriage system, this is the pivot pin for when you have a dozer or ag tractor with a leaf spring support in place of the rigid cross beam that your loader is bolted to now to allow the tracks to oscillate with the terrain.  My HD5 only has bolts in the front on the rigid beam and rear just ahead of the final drive that holds the entire loader frame on if I remember correctly. 

The front is bolted the rear is pin and bushing.

I have both manuals.there is one from Allis for the tractor and another from tractomotive. I don't see loader frame removal. As well as I don't see main frame removal or rigid beam removal. I have help ,and have the machines stripped down to the loader frame. Noone here can understand how to pull the pin in an area like that.
Guess we need the experience of someone who actually has done it.

There's got to be a way.

I have no clue, but pictures of the problem might help a lot??? Sounds like big, heavy, awkward, rusty, tight space, problem to me!:)
Dad always said " someone had to put it together, we should be able to take it apart, repair it, and reassemble too"! Did you call Mel?
Regards,
 Chris

As close as I got to replacing is i had one of the saddles cracked from the main casting - welded it back into place and reattached it so truck frame did not move - was on a HD5B that I had bought where they ran the machine with busted axle by outboard bearing on truck frame which allowed it to pivot and break main casting of rear . was the bottom of the steering clutch case area so no oil leakage . 

Just shimmed that area with split washers to try to take some slop out of areas 

Well from the easy chair and on paper this doesn't look too bad!:)
 The work Mel did and the pictures tell a lot about the problem.
I would put a stop pin (3/8 dia??) through the hole in the head of the custom bolt. This allows you to heat and remove the nut while holding the head from turning. If you get that done then the bolt should move out of the hole (away from the nut end) and release the taper. A porta power might be needed, and some heat on the taper. It looks like it may be more than a 7 degree taper so it should not be a locking fit taper, but may be rusted/stuck. Do both sides and then lift the frame up to remove the inner tapered portions. Take lots of pictures!
 Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy! Yea right:)
Not knowing whether its tapered inside or not, it still looks like how it has to come apart. We just don't have a full cross section of the shank with the nut on the threaded end. I would bet you breakfast that Mel has it nailed with the picture he found!

Item 8 is a spacer and should allow the frame to be lifted up after the custom bolt is out. Then you can see item 7 stuck in the lower frame ear and see how bad it is worn.
They did not use a standard bolt for item 6 because it had to have the taper turned on it.
I think some heat in the right places will allow you to win this battle. When you get it apart you may need some new tapered parts like item 7?
 Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Dec 2016 at 8:33pm

Sorry for the miss-leading information earlier, I was under the understanding you were working on the pins for the truck frames underneath the machine.  I'll have to look at mine now, I don't remember that the rear of my loader attaches that way.

If I get the pins out, the frame will come out w/o removing trax.
If I'm unsuccessful using the 7/8 hole in front someway for extraction, I think it's nessasary to break the trax apart, drop and roll the truck frame forward. Can't afford to Crack the final drive housing pressing against it. Also not much room back there even to try that .
     That's a car restoration project in the back.

Need to get a porta power or something to put some pressure on the threaded end, then take a ten pound and pop the side of the truck frame really hard. Was the only way I got the one out of my donor 7G. Are a real bite how they made these instead of just bolting the loader frame to the frame. And I have to go thru it again, to pull the right hand truck and pull my right final apart.

Get the parts and burn it out...

Ok maybe there is not enough room to get by the upper idler?
I really think the key to this is heating with a torch to enlarge the casting. And lots of PB Blaster too!
Another approach:
Make a sleeve larger that the portion of the pin to be pulled out, and just long enough that would cover 1/4 of the 7/8 hole when slid over the pin up against the casting. Heat the casting and drive a drift pin into the 7/8 hole, if its at a angle that will let you??? If not this may not work?
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 15 Dec 2016 at 9:32pm