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OC: Gehl 125 Grinder?Mixer

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Johnwilson_osf View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 7:45pm
Greetings all,
We have  a Gehl 125 feed grinder, and one of the bearings on the main drive pulley is bad.  I have the replacement parts (serial number specific), and got into taking it apart today.  Unfortunately, I can not get that pulley off.  Based on my serial number, there are no snaprings on the front of the shaft, and therefore it should "pop off".  I realize that if this is true, it is unlikely to "pop", as it has had lots of use, and is likely held tight to the shaft. 
Has anyone ever taken one of these apart?  I can't see any snap rings or split rings, plus with the PTO stub shaft right there, it does not leave much room to get one out. 

I am going to look at it again the the daylight tomorrow, but thought I would see if anyone has any insight. 

Thank you,
John
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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shameless (ne) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 7:52pm
heat, panther pee, pullers? how far does the shaft go thru the pulley?
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Johnwilson_osf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnwilson_osf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 8:07pm
The shaft is out about 4 inches.  It has been soaking all afternoon in panther pee, so hopefully that helps tomorrow.  We tried pullers but mine are just a touch short to reach behind the pulley.  So I put some 1/4 inch metal bars behind the spokes of the pulley, and pulled on the....Bent the metal bars.  Heat will be the last resort.  
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 9:17pm
Do not apply heat to the shift. Try to heat the hub on the pulley without heating the shafts any more than you have to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2016 at 4:48am
is it a Browning style pulley? (hub, with bolts holding pulley to hub)?

Edited by DiyDave - 26 Nov 2016 at 4:48am
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Johnwilson_osf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnwilson_osf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2016 at 6:50am
No bolts visible.  From the parts break down it is just on the shaft.  
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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Lars(wi) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2016 at 7:28am
make sure the pulley and shaft are not slightly tapered, it's possible there is only one direction that pulley will go off.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac-mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2016 at 9:27am
ARE THERE SET SCREWS HOLDING IT IN PLACE? IF NOT, A LOT OF THOSE MACHINES HAVE GIB KEYS. YOU CAN TELL LOOKING AT THE EXPOSED END OF THE KEY, IT WILL HAVE A SORT OF HEAD TO IT. WHEN THE PULLEY IS IN PLACE YOU DRIVE THE GIB KEY, SOME REFER TO IT AS A DRIVE TAPER PIN,IN HAMMER TIGHT. THEY CAN BE A BEAR TO GET OUT BUT THEY NEVER GIVE ME MUCH TROUBLE IF I GET TO THEM FIRST. IF THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE, LET ME KNOW AND I WILL TRY TO EXPAIN HOW TO GET THEM OUT.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnwilson_osf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 9:59pm
Thank you everyone for your assistance.  Alas, there was no tapered shaft, no set screws or keys.  It was just years of old grease, feed dust and moxie holding that pulley on.  In the end, it was a firm blow from a 5lb sledge on a 4x4 block that made it budge.  Once it moved, it took a whole lot more hits to get the front bearing off the shaft.  Then the pulley came right off.  The inner bearing had the same stubbornness to come off. 

I cleaned everything real well, then ran some emery cloth around the shaft, and was able to get all the new bearings and seals in place. 

In the end it was brute strength that one....But it always scares me, especially when banging on something that is cast, and no longer manufactured. 

Thanks again.
John
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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