? for 180 pullers

Edited by PaulB - 20 Oct 2016 at 8:05am

A 301 can be made to 410 cubes as a turboed diesel and still be very reliable. A 180 - 185 should be able to run road gear with these class rules and good money spent on good parts. You will need an A pump capable of delivering 600 or more cc's if possible. The correct turbo selection will be very important.







Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 04 Nov 2016 at 9:20pm

Paul I HOPE this is a class at glad hill for your club for next year my 190 drops right in there and yes it sounds like a fun class

Already though of that. According to the rules posted it has to be the correct block for the driveline if I am interpreting them correctly.

"Without adapters or non - OEM backing plates" means no custom adapters can be used to put any other engine in a tractor other than what the driveline came with. Either way, for an Allis, the 301 block is the only choice unless someone gets a D21 down to 6500 lbs. or less.

Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 20 Oct 2016 at 1:43pm

All good questions: I think in order to answer them with any amount of accuracy you will have to fill us in on what you intend to do. This might boil down to how good do you have to be to compete or what is your competition doing with their rigs.

In theory, with an A pump rule and no limit on the turbo, That equals a potential of 13 - 14 - 1500 HP. If someone can get 750 cc's or so out of an A pump, and a good intercooler, and turn a 3.4 inlet turbo at open RPM (yes, this could happen) at 410 inches you could have that much to deal with.

Going back to your 2.4 inlet turbo question, I doubt a Roosa master pump would turn that affectively on 301 cubes. Maybe on 410 with an intercooler and a good cylinder head it would.

So you see, it all depends on what you want to do. Going big costs money. What it take to compete depends on what your competition is doing.

3 years a go pulled 5500-6500 with it 3k rpm at this time. had 3LM466 turbo 500cc a-pump 7th gear inter cooler 40lbs ice 18.4x38 top cut 301 cube

Yes you could make 300 - 400 HP with a Roosa Master pump, however, if you are thinking forward and want something to build on in the future, I would skip the Roosa pump and go right to an A pump. With this set of rules somebody someday will build a killer. You want to have cards left to play. This will also insure that you can turn the 2.4 inlet turbo.

If you stay with stock cubic inches (which is sounds like is the plan) you should have the factory connecting rods heat treated. That's a must do. After that, a good head gasket with fire rings would be needed. From there add slightly larger intake and exhaust valves, good springs, keepers and locks, and have the head ported. Use the 15:1 pistons which should be machined with valve reliefs to accept a more aggressive camshaft with faster ratio rockers. 350" deep reliefs should be more than enough. No other machine work to the pistons will need to be done. Balance all internal moving parts. At 500 HP the factory main caps will be just fine - no need for a girdle.

Purchase a case of John Deere 80% ether. Keep a can nearby at all times.

You will need a good, twin or triple disk clutch and a steel flywheel.

Okay, that was the easy part: Now, I am not sure a 180 could make 4500 lbs. 5000 - yes. 4500 - doubt it. I'm not sure how that would be done unless you used a D17 transmission and final drives. If so, you would want enough HP to run direct drive or you will likely break the transmission. I think you would want the use of the 180 torque housing with a mechanical coupler to be able to remove the factory power director. The over / under gears in the 180 (or 190) torque housing would be heavier than a D17 I would assume. Next you have to figure out how to couple the D17 trans to the 180 clutch shaft and still have the high / low feature. Two different splines on the output end of the clutch shaft vs. the D17 input shaft. That would be the tricky part if you are truly committed to making 4500 lbs. Even if you could make the D17 driveline work, you would still really be scratching to make 4500 with the rest of the tractor being mostly 180. Aluminum everything. For the headaches and money involved in losing the last 500 lbs., I might just be satisfied running the 5500 and 6500. That should make for a large enough group of competitors to piss off.   

    

Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 23 Oct 2016 at 11:30am

Getting there is one thing. Being able to balance it and drive it in a controlled manner is something else. There's only 6 gallons of oil in the rearend...42 pounds. Changing to aluminum hoods might save 50 lbs, so there's 92 pounds with no oil in the rearend. You've got 408 pounds to go and find a 100 lb driver.

Paul, could you give me a call for more information on the class, we run a 6,700 lb. open rpm 3" inlet on turbo.  Spoke with a couple of people for directions in pulling in your area.  Had back surgery last week so we are out this season, but would love to pull in this area, we run a 180, tractor runs good.  give me a call t 252-945-7937. Thanks