D-14 hydraulics

OK, I've spent 3 days 'upgrading' the  rockshaft lift cylinder on Troy. I took the entire rockshaft chunk off Paris, replaced the hose and put all the bolts back on.BTW the pin that holds the cylinder is 'fun' to install. Put oils back in, statrted up, works fine. Left it fully up over night.sleep, awn awakens.... the arms are DOWN !! Arrgh...now when it was on Paris they stayed up over a YEAR.so.....
question..does this mean the oil is 'backfeeding' through the control valve and  I need to 'borrow' the pumps assy from Paris now?

comments, suggestions, helpful hints,ideas.....

Jay

That cylinder has held up for over a year,so I didn't see why I'd have to replace the packing. It hadn't moved an inch even with me hanging from it so I assume the packing is 100%.

Jay

I 'was' thinking of grabbing the pump from Paris and tossing it into Troy as it never lost a drop of oil and the ams always stayed up( the other 3 have arms down......)
Then I checked tha I&T manual and well, I really don't feel like being on my back TWICE..bifocals are useless in that position...
I'm rethinking the whole 'ordeal' seeing how I also want to have a left brake( axle seal is shot, well 'lubricated' shoes,...sigh it never ends....
double sigh...

Jay

sigh, I can do this in my sleep now......
I cut my own gasket, 2 pieces,btm 'half' goes above the 2 locating pins. Also smeared on some 100% sillicone,just to be sure,though real gasket goo might be better, there is no pressure...
DRAIN BOTH rear end and tranny !! Use 2 5Gal pails...THEN remove PTO shaft(3 - 9/16). If you don't drain tranny...well, you'll make one mell-of-a-hess of your shop !
To make it easy, unbolt and get the right 'foot floor' out of the way( 9/16 deep socket), remove the brake rod(cotter pin((hair pin clip for me !)).Now remove the bolt that holds the pin that holds the cylinder on the tractor. A small pry bar and a few taps reallt helps.
Seat has to come off, 2 - 1/2" bolts, so 3/4" socket,takea awhile and DON'T pinch fingers removing the seat !
More 'Fun' part is removing the 8 bolts. 3/4" socket and a box wrench. I needed a 2' extension on the handle to 'crack' them.
Need to use 3/4 open end to disconnect the steel hydraulic line I have an I-beam in the garage with a chainhoist/trolley making life bearable. I used a chain 'sling' wrapped around the cast iron part of the 'rockshaft chunk' to support it. Also took off the lift latches. It will balance dang near horizontal. I used a stiff putty knife to 'break free' the chunk from the diff, then pushed tractor forward,have a block handy to keep tractor from rolling back...
I got a 'seal' kit from agco but had local shop make up a new hose WITH a swivel fitting on the cylinder end.That makes reassembly real easy.It was also 1/2 cost from AGCO. I used teflon tape and secured hose to the 'top piece' first then the cylinder end.
Now the REAL FUN is lining up the cylinder's bottom end to get the 'pin' back in to secure it.Hint...be sure the pipe nipple coming out of the cylinder is horizontal, use chian hoist to raise the arms up a bit, use a big drift to 'feel' things line up, pray to the great gods of Allis and push the real pin in. Any time under an hour and you're the expert !!
That's all I can think of now, email me for more details....
also take a few pictures  during disassembly.....


The cylinder is a single acting one, only one hole in it. weight on the arm will push the oil backwards through the pump into the bottom of the beast.

In my case, I'm pretty sure the 'hold' valve assy has crud in it(rust,gorf,???) that doesn't allow the check ball to seat properly so the oil goes back while the lever is in the 'hold' position.

Jay

Thanks for all the info Jay.  It's nice when you have a head start on a project.  It usually makes life tons easier.  Thank You!

I will try to remember to take pics but I usually plan on it and then forget!!