2 All-Crop questions

What's the proper way to install the big belt on the back of a 60/66/72? I put mine on with all the twists in the right places, then I carefully look over it and make sure everything is right. (But I guess it's not) When I run the combines, either they throw the belt or the belt gets a twist between the idler and the big sheave that drives the grain drag and straw rack. Then it's running sideways on that big sheave, but fine everywhere else.

Question 2: What would cause a combine to shake a lot? Great-granddad's combine shakes a ton. It gets worse as you speed up the cylinder. At 1200 RPM, it's almost impossible to hold a tachometer on any shafts because the whole combine is rocking side to side. When you slow the cylinder to 900, it's not as bad. When you run it without the belt on the back of the separator, it shakes only about half as much. It has an equal amount of rubber on all cylinder bars, so it shouldn't be out of balance.

Thanks

one of dad's shook a lot, and the other one didn't. it never hampered it's working ability tho.

When I had a belt doing that I put a new belt on and the problem went away. Belt was getting old and weak.

As for the shaking, mine shakes quite a bit and it's completely rebuilt. The biggest thing is the Walker moving back and forth in the machine. No different then new combines, but when's it's side ways it's more noticeable.

Mine doesn't change with the cylinder speed at all. Only thing that changed is the hum. Check the cylinder bearings, mine on the right side were gone and wore through the housing. Another thing to try is take the belt off the cylinder and spin it. It should not stop in the same spot every time. If it does, you'll notice it rock back and forth til it stops in that spot. That means your cylinder is off balance.

Edited by Carl(NWWI) - 27 Sep 2016 at 9:45am

Maybe a new belt would fix the twisting problem. They are pretty old.

The thing I find odd is this combine shakes like no other (Maybe because it's so old, battered, and scarred), and my other 60A (Which shows a lot of evidence of being rebuilt by the PO) sits almost prefectly still at operating speed.

Edited by CrestonM - 27 Sep 2016 at 10:42am

Mistake twist right and then left.

Like I said earlier. Check the cylinder as I stated.

What is a shaker shaft? You mean the straw rack? Which shaft? The one that the "Y"ish shaped thing rocks on?

combinechris wrote:

Like I said carl shaker bearings too. I had a busted bearing on the shaker shaft that caused a lot of shaking too.

Ohh absolutely!! They can make a mess of things. Especially on an axial flow. Doing a shaker overhaul on a 2588 right now at work.

Only thing that leads me towards the cylinder is Creston said with more rpm on the cylinder the more it shakes. If he leaves the belt off for the shaker, it still shakes.

Edited by Carl(NWWI) - 27 Sep 2016 at 7:12pm

you'd shake too if you was that old!

Take the cylinder drive belt off of the cylinder pulley and see if there is a heavy spot in the cylinder if that makes sense.

Also, take the separator belt off and move the straw rack by hand, check the wooden pitman arms and make sure they are not egged out and needing replacement. Also check and make sure the wooden pivot blocks on the left side of the straw rack are tight. Those two shouldnt make a diffence in your problem but have seen them cause other issues. I might know where there are some NOS blocks that can by sent your way. Wink

An open eye is much more observant than an open mouth

JimIA wrote:

Take the cylinder drive belt off of the cylinder pulley and see if there is a heavy spot in the cylinder if that makes sense.

Also, take the separator belt off and move the straw rack by hand, check the wooden pitman arms and make sure they are not egged out and needing replacement. Also check and make sure the wooden pivot blocks on the left side of the straw rack are tight. Those two shouldnt make a diffence in your problem but have seen them cause other issues. I might know where there are some NOS blocks that can by sent your way. Wink

The pitman arms were new this spring, and are still in great shape.

The pivot blocks on the straw rack were shot this spring (only one was still there, and it was broke) I used the old one for a pattern and made some new ones out of soft maple because that's all I had, and harvest was in less than a week. The holes are a little egged, but not too bad I don't think.

What kind of wood were the original blocks made of, as well as the wood chain guides?

Don't know if these will help.

We might have it narrowed down to the problem now since I talked to Creston on the phone. Straw rack may need to be slowed down. The drive pulley on the back may need shims put in or taken out to slow the rack speed.

Edited by combinechris - 27 Sep 2016 at 9:59pm

35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvDs3ePAam0

Here it is.

Edited by CrestonM - 27 Sep 2016 at 10:08pm

Carl(NWWI) wrote:

I did have the belt off over the weekend, and spinning it by hand, I noticed it would spin a while, and gradually stop. No heavy spot.

You Could've said that earlier....

Sorry.

However, my 1st post does say the cylinder has an equal amount of rubber on each bar. That was kind of a if/then statement.

Edited by CrestonM - 28 Sep 2016 at 12:02am

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