| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
CrestonM 
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: B Crankshaft Seal Questions
Posted: 23 Jun 2016 at 11:46pm |
How hard is it to replace the front/rear main seal on a B? What is the process?
Here are 2 pics of what I have. I have a gasket seal that has this in it. I assume this is the rear seal?
And here is the front seal currently on the tractor The round orange donut-looking thing (not the crimped looking ring around the outside) turns with the shaft, so it isn't part of the seal. I've had 2 guys tell me it's just a common lip-type press in seal available at Napa. Is this true? If not, what do I need to do? Thanks!
Edited by CrestonM - 23 Jun 2016 at 11:51pm
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
PaulB
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4949
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 6:44am |
|
If you just want to slow up the leak replace with what is already there. To stop the leak put a speedi-sleeve on both ends of the crank and us a new lip seal. The rear seal holder will need to be machined out to fit the new style seal.
|
|
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
|
|
ACJohn
Silver Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Horseheads, NY
Points: 147
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 7:41am |
|
The rear seal replacement is usually cork (in the kits I've gotten). You will have to split the tractor and remove the clutch and flywheel to get to the seal retainer. lube it with assembly lube or grease so it doesn't burn before the oil gets to it. The front replacement is a lip seal and you may have to pull the front cover to do it right. If you go that far, might as well check internals (rod & main clearances) while you are at it.
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 9:06am |
 ACJohn wrote:
The rear seal replacement is usually cork (in the kits I've gotten). You will have to split the tractor and remove the clutch and flywheel to get to the seal retainer. lube it with assembly lube or grease so it doesn't burn before the oil gets to it. The front replacement is a lip seal and you may have to pull the front cover to do it right. If you go that far, might as well check internals (rod & main clearances) while you are at it.
|
I'm already overhauling the engine. 
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 9:07am |
PaulB wrote:
If you just want to slow up the leak replace with what is already there. To stop the leak put a speedi-sleeve on both ends of the crank and us a new lip seal. The rear seal holder will need to be machined out to fit the new style seal.
|
Is the front seal not a lip seal already? How would replacing with what is there not stop the leak?
|
|
Hubnut
Orange Level
Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Points: 1812
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:56am |
|
The rear seal slips into a retainer and this is bolted over the crank. The front seal was originally cork and the front of the crank has a spiral groove in it to oil the seal. If you put the neoprene lipped seal on that, it will invariably cut the seal and leak again. A speedy sleeve over the spiral groove will be needed to make the neoprene seal work properly.
|
|
1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22822
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 11:20am |
|
If I'm not mistaken, the front cover NEEDS to be centered on the crankshaft with an adapter bushing or indicate it in , before bolting it up. The new seal can then be tapped in with a deep socket or a home made sleeve of some sort. If the covers seal diameter is not centered on the crankshaft, you're wasting your time putting a new seal in.
|
|
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 11:30am |
|
Ok, thanks for clearing that up guys!
|
|
PaulB
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4949
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 3:00pm |
|
If using a new lip type seal on the spirals of the crank at either end it will surely leak like a hose. Unless you have a smooth crank or use a speedi sleeve, the only seal that will even slow down the leak is a felt or cork. A lip seal MUST have a smooth surface. Does the front of your crank have spirals, or is it smooth? The picture you've shown of the front is not a lip type seal, the entire seal assembly will need to be removed and the new lip seal will fit to the cover and as said will need to be centered on the crank.
At the rear the seal retainer can easily be machined out to use the 138/149 new type lip seal or even use the 138/149 retainer as well. If youre looking to have drip free crank ends the only way to go is speedi-sleeves and new style seals. This is costly but nothing short of doing it completely right will do. The old felt seals were designed to work with the old non-detergent oils that would build up a waxy crud where it leaked.
|
|
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 3:30pm |
Where do I get a Speedi-Sleeve and seal? Is it something I can get at Napa? Thanks! The rear seal doesn't leak as of right now, so I don't think I should replace it. The front seal leaks a minimal amount, maybe 3-4 drops a week. Do you think I should even worry about it, or leave well enough alone?
|
|
CAL(KS)
Orange Level
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3800
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 4:09pm |
if your overhauling it do them both and be done or sure as heck when you bolt back together and run it, the leaking will start:)
|
|
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
|
|
PatrickBeth
Silver Level
Joined: 04 Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 184
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 9:24pm |
|
Hey been there with my B, I finally fixed it by adding two lip seals, I machined out another ring and bolted it to the timing cover. If photo bucket wasn't fighting me I'd post a photo. Tried cork. Failed, tried one lip seal, failed. The return grove will not allow the lip seal to work on an early B (1938) you must get the lip seal out away from the cover, my method works for me. My email is pphemken@yahoo.com. Will gladly send you a photo.
|
|
Chalmersbob
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pennsylvania
Points: 2122
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25 Jun 2016 at 10:04pm |
Also, there are 2 different size seals for the front. Check you shaft size before you buy one. I had one come with the gasket kit and it was for a later model then my 39. I also had 2 different rear seals come with my gasket kit. One was cork, the other was a sandwich affair with felt on the outside and rubber in between. LOL Bob
|
|
4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Jul 2016 at 11:09am |
|
Does anyone have a part number for the front crankshaft seal? I found a seal at Steiner, but it said it is for engine S/N CE177567 and up. My S/N is CE10163. I looked on their site for a different seal, but I couldn't find one.
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2988
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Jul 2016 at 11:38am |
You can view AGOC's part books here as a guest http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx?region=NorthAmerica
Edited by Allis dave - 19 Jul 2016 at 11:38am
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Jul 2016 at 12:07pm |
|
I found it in the book, but I don't know if that's the cork seal or the new rubber lip seal I need.
|
|
ac45dave
Orange Level Access
Joined: 23 May 2015
Location: SE(IN)
Points: 1343
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Jul 2016 at 2:10pm |
|
creston i posted this info on your speedy sleeve post!! these are the numbers from my napa prolink page,early and late production.both are available but would have to be ordered. FPG 14443 late FPG 15162 early
|
|
54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8452
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Jul 2016 at 3:15pm |
Oh, ok sorry! I forgot about that! 
Thank you!!
Edited by CrestonM - 19 Jul 2016 at 3:16pm
|
|
