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The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Front wheel bearings |
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 09 May 2016 at 9:26pm |
Family has my grandfathers D14 that I plan to put new front wheel bearing and seals in this summer. Got the parts I believe and the owners manual. Are there any gotcha's I need to worry about. Or is it pretty much straight forward as a car or truck. Sorry for a newb question but haven't worked on this Allis or any tractors!
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Auntwayne ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 23 Apr 2011 Location: Edwardsville Il Points: 1589 |
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Pretty much straight forward.
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Dad always said," If you have one boy, you have a man. If you have two boys, you have two boys". "ALLIS EXPRESS"
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Hubert (Ga)engine7 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6464 |
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Welcome to the Forum! Lots of knowledgeable people (myself not included) that are willing to share their expertise. Just be careful, once you catch Orange fever there is no known cure.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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I've had orange fever ever since the first day my grandfather let me drive this tractor when I was 10 or so. I even have an old Allis mini bike from my childhood.
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SHAMELESS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EAST NE Points: 29486 |
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huh?
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Hush, SHAMELESS. Don't be causing no disturbances to him.
Edited by DougS - 10 May 2016 at 8:01am |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8608 |
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He joined today....Somethins off kilter
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 10 May 2016 at 8:58am |
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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It's spam...see the embedded link in the post. I reported it. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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Longmeadow Farm ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: Eastern NY Points: 321 |
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I would have to assume that the reason you are planning on replacing the front wheel spindle bearings is because they are worn, sloppy and perhaps just bad. If that is the case you will most probably need to replace the bearing races and grease seal at the inner end of the spindle. If you "experienced" this activity before then you probably have your expectations in order. If you haven't, then you may indeed be in for some surprises as pulling off inner spindle bearings and grease seals is not for the faint of heart. Especially when the front spindles have not been serviced regularly. I just finished my annual front spindle "work" on my AC 175 and 6080... my 175 is used as a daily chore tractor in the mud, slop, etc... getting the bearings, etc off the spindle can be somewhat "tricky"..but if you have the right tools..... good luck.
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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You mind giving me the tricky definition???
What tools????? yes, wheels sloppy from side to side! thx
Edited by brews4me - 17 May 2016 at 8:23pm |
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Longmeadow Farm ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: Eastern NY Points: 321 |
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I use a home made "collar" and a wheel puller to get the inside (on spindle) wheel bearing off and usually partially cut the grease seal to remove from its rusted resting place. I suppose you could beat the old bearing off... as I did many years ago.. but then I had some filing to do to get the new bearing on. I take the hub to a machine shop to remove the bearing races and install new ones. I've used a torch, chisels..large hammer, etc to remove the races... but at 75 I don't need the aggravation, much less the resultant damage to the hub. If you plan on using the tractor for light work and the bearings are just worn, perhaps lubricating/packing them with appropriate grease and tightening up the spindle nut is all you really need to do. However, I suspect the grease seal is probably shot so taking off the bearing will be necessary to replace the seal. Removal of a worn bearing from the spindle comes with its own challenges. I suppose you could get a bucket full of WD-40 and diesel and immerse the spindle in it for a week or so... but that's your call. But take a peek first.. chances are 50-50 that the real sloppy un-lubricated bearing will just fall apart in your hands... or maybe you are one of those lucky folk and just a repack and adjustment is all you need.
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3042 |
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I've changed several wheel bearings on front tires and wagons and never had too much trouble. I can usually lay the hub down on an anvil or concrete and drive out the race and seal with a hammer and punch. A race driver set makes install a lot easier but can be done with the right sized socket.
Sometime you can just pull the cotter key and tighten the nut to remove the slop. IF the bearing is out or really bad, that won't help. |
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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I will try to tighten but i have the parts so might as well replace, i will lose them if I wait too long!
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