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still having power steering issues

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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 10:12am
Took the entire front steering box off of the D19, took the steering control valve apart and cleaned everything up and put back together with new orings.   Cleaned out the entire steering box while I had it apart and also opened up the pump, cleaned it all up and all of the lines I cleaned and blew out.   This whole system dig have a hole in the bypass tube, and was low on fluid when I started out.   During all of the cleaning, I dig find small chunks of crud in the steering control valve, and in the pump behind the relief valve.   Cleaned everything up really good and made sure that I kept everything clean upon reassembly.   Filled it up with universal automatic transmission fluid.   Now that it is all back together, it acts exactly the same as it did before.   The pressure guage that I plumbed in the pressure line reads pretty much 0 all the time until the steering is all the way to one end or the other.   Then it will spike to almost 1200, but as soon as you steer it back, it's the same at almost nothing.   I tried adding a washer or two under the spring for the relief valve and that did nothing.   
So, is there something that I did wrong upon reassembly, or am I using the wrong fluid and should put something else in that is a little thicker?   Or is it just that the pump gears are worn and shot and the pump needs to be rebuilt?   When I took the pump apart, there didn't seem to be anything excessively worn that I could see but that doesn't mean that things haven't worn evenly.  
I was thinking of looking at the pump on my D17 series 4 and see if they are the same and swapping that one just to see if the rest of the system is working properly.  
 
I'm stumped on this one.   After finding all of the crud, I thought that cleaning the system things would be fixed, but I was wrong.   Any help or tips would be appreciated. 
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 10:46am
I don't know the system at all, but if you get 1200psi at any point, the pump is not the problem. JMO
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Travis(NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 11:05am
If your getting a reading of 1200 psi when turned all the way one way I would think the pump is working? While it's running have you looked into the filler port on the steering housing for flow? You could also crack the pressure line at the control valve and check for fluid flow. If there is flow next I think I would crack the lines going to the steering ram cylinder. It will make a mess, but when you turn the wheel one line should run fluid out one way and the other line the other way. If both lines leak at the same time maybe the seals are shot in the ram and is bypassing until steered all the way one way blocking off the return port in the ram causing the pressure spike you see?

The pump on your 17 IV should be the same, but you will have to pull the pulley to change mounting brackets.

I use hydraulic fluid in mine.

It could also be something in the control valve?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bolivar Boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 11:44am
my guess is the relief valve is sticking open, replace and refill with hydraulic oil per mfg. spec.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 1:38pm
Thanks Travis for the tips.   I will go out and try and report back. 
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Ok, so I went out in the shop and tried some things.    Started the tractor up and cracked the pressure line going into the steering control valve, and I had fluid coming out so I tightened it back up.   Craced  the rear line coming out of the steering control valve which goes to the front of the ram and fluid was pouring out of it, without even trying to move the steering wheel.     The other line I couldn't crack right by the steering control valve so I cracked it open at the back of the ram.   The only time fluid would come out of it, was when I moved the steering wheel.   
 
So I think something is wrong in the steering control valve?   Fluid shouldn't be coming out when you're not steering, correct?   Now I did take the steering control valve all apart and didn't see anything wrong but there was some crud built up inside of there.   I did clean it all good and put all new orings in it upon reassembly.   Maybe there is something wrong with it from the beginning and that is why I haven't had decent pressure.  
I did also take the ram all apart and clean it all up and reassemble. 
Now when the steering valve moves and it pumps fluid to the ram, does it pump into one side and suck out of the other side?   So if right now it is pumping into the front side of the ram to move the ram towards the back of the tractor, how does that fluid get back out when the ram moves forward and fluid is supposed to pump in to the backside of the plunger in the ram?  
 
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russ-neia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 2:05pm
Is the steering shaft free to telescope?  The steering valve is actuated by the steering shaft sliding in and out, depending on RH or LH turn.  Sometimes the shaft that comes past the side of the engine will bind and not let the short shaft move.
The innovators offer what others will imitate.
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Good tip Russ.   I just went out and turned the steering wheel each way and referenced the back of the bellhousing to the u-joint directly behind it.   When i turn to the left, it moves in, and when I turn to the right it moves out.   When I took the whole steering box apart, it seemed the shaft was rusted into the coupler on the end of the shaft coming out of the steering control valve.   So when I put it back together I put some grease in there so that it wouldn't be all bound up in the future, if I had to remove it again.
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob(FL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 2:49pm
When you put the shaft thru the control valve you need to tighten the nut down on the shaft to 5 ft lbs then back off the nut 2 flats and stake it. was the spring that centers the valve in good condition?  When you turn the steering wheel it moves the valve back and forth to send fluid to each side of the ram, look at the shaft where it goes into the valve and make sure it moves there.  I went thru the whole system on my d19 when I restored it.
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What manual do you have for the 19? The A-C or AGCO manual goes into the operation of the control valve way more than the I&T. I can scan and send you pages of the A-C manual if it would help.

How much of the control valve did you disassemble? Russ is correct that the steering shaft does need to be free to move slightly fore and aft to shift the spool in the valve.
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Here are some not so good pictures of the A-C manual describing how the control valve works.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 6:54pm
Travis, thanks for the info.   I have an IT manual and it doesn't explain it nearly that well.   When I tore the steering valve apart, maybe I tightened that nut too much and the steering valve isn't centering itself and that's why the oil is going to the front of the ram all the time.   Looks like I will have to pull the steering valve out again and see what I did wrong.   Thanks for the help. 
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob(FL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 8:06pm
When I did mine I  checked it with compressed air before putting the front end back together.  If you have oil going to the front of the ram all the time the spring that centers the valve is not right.  In the parts book shows 1 spring and 2 plungers, one on each side, that keeps the valve centered.
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Bob, I think the nut is tightened down too much.   I will pull it apart tomorrow morning.   I think I'll go out and drain the fluid tonite ahead of time.    Compressed air is a great idea.   I will try that before I put it back in. 
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D-17_Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 11:08pm
I don't recall what your orriginal problem was, must have missed that memo. But, if your pump builds pressure against the end of the cyl. stroke each way then your pump is good, at least to a certain point. I have not looked at a manual for what the pressure setting on the relief valve should be but the pump in good working order should build this pressure at or just above idle.
To understand how the hydraulics work, look at it like this. The oil will only become pressurized when the oil flow from the pump is asked to perform some work. Ie the oil will not be under pressure while the oil is just being circulated. But when you turn the wheel and push or pull the valve it should direct the oil to the front or rear of the cyl. and turn the tires. How much pressure you see on the guage depends on how much force is applied to the piston head of the steering cyl. needed to overcome the friction of the weight of the tractor pushing on the tires touching the ground. Bla Bla Bla, are you confused yet? lol Point is you must have flow from the valve to the cyl, you must have pressure reaction to force the system to work. So where is the failure. If you build pressure at lock both ways but not much assistance can be felt inbetween I's say your valve is sticking or not adjusted correctly. Also the valve does 2 things at the same time. It supplies pressurised oil into the side of the cyl. as directed,and releases the oil from the other side back to the reservior. If the valve fails to supply the cyl. with oil it will have the same effect as the valve not releasing the oil from the cyl. back to the reservior.
Yea, I can fix that.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 11:25pm
Chuck, When I redid out D-19 power steering it would not react very fast with the nut on the steering valve adjusted per the book. Someone here advised me that I might need to loosen that nut another flat or two and that fixed it. If you back it off too far the steering will get very figity.

Edited by Butch(OH) - 28 Jan 2012 at 11:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2012 at 12:19am
On my D17, it always seemed like there as a tough spot to turn thru to get the power steering to work... Was that way all the years it was used... probably would still act that way if it were running today.
 Always wondered what caused that.
 
"Now that it is all back together, it acts exactly the same as it did before.   The pressure guage that I plumbed in the pressure line reads pretty much 0 all the time until the steering is all the way to one end or the other.   Then it will spike to almost 1200, but as soon as you steer it back, it's the same at almost nothing."
Chuck, You also said, "When i turn to the left, it moves in, and when I turn to the right it moves out." I am wondering how much movement you had, Like you said, "I think the nut is tightened down too much" . I think you will have your problem solved with the right adjustment... Lets hope thats what it is. I know when they are set right, it's effortless to turn.
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Ok, got it tore apart and this is what I found.   Using air pressure, air was only coming out of the back passage the way it was, which is the same as when I had it hooked up.   Took it apart and backed the nut off a few turns and when I push the shaft forward, air will come out the front hole, with a fair amount of pressure.   When I pull it rearward, air will come out the back hole, but not as much pressure as the front hole.   But if I let go of the shaft, it wil stay wherever I left it and not return to neutral.   This leads me to believe that the spring that is between the two plungers is shot and not strong enough because if it was, I would think with the air pressure still on it, the shaft should return to neutral, correct??   Or am I thinking about this wrong?  
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Also, taking it apart even further, when I put just the plunger, spring, and plunger back together in the main body of the steering control valve, the two plungers when pushed together and virtually flush with the sides of the valve body.  If the spring was still good and I am thinking correctly, when you push the plunger flush on one side, the spring should be pushing the plunger out on the other side, so that when it is all together, the spring is working to center the valve body back to center, when you're not trying to steer it.   Am I thinking right? 

1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Looked the spring up on the AGCO parts site, is this spring still available?
 
70235850 1 SPRING, active plunger
702358501, spring, active plunger
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D-17_Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2012 at 2:48pm

I'd guess thatthe spring will help dampen the pressure of the oil to cause a reaction with the valve so the tractor doesn't try to steer itself. The action of the cyl. through the gears pushes the valve back to neutral position stopping the flow of oil. In effect the as you turn the wheel the tension against the worm pushes the valve causing the oil to flow and move the steering and centering the valve. The hydraulics should be playing catch up all the time. The amount of hydraulics depends on the how tight the cap nut is. Too tight you have near manual steering. too loose and the hydraulics will be so sensitive that you risk jumpy steering that can be dangerous at any real ground speed.

Yea, I can fix that.....
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Dave, I understand what you mean about the worm gearing pulling it in and out depending on which way you are turning it, but I thought that the spring should have some amount of pressure on the plungers to keep things centered.   I wonder if the plungers are worn as well as the spring.   Does anyone have one of these in pieces that could do some measuring of things.   I hate to just loosen the nut, put it all back together and then find out that it still isn't right.   I'd rather it sit stuck in the place it is and make sure all is good before I go through the effort of reassembly. 

1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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I shoulda just sent you the whole steering bolster. LOL

I can take the one apart I have and take some measurements for you.
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If you could, that would be great.   I will measure what I got.  
The two plungers measure 9/16 long and the spring is 3/4 long.


Edited by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI - 29 Jan 2012 at 4:16pm
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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I finally had a chance to clean off part of a bench to dissasemble my control valve and also came up with 9/16" for the plungers and 3/4" for the spring. I also meassured the the distance the spool moved on this one with the caliper(not a very precise measurement as my dial indicator is at home) and came up with 0.0735"

I used a screwdriver here...

Measured here...

and came up with this...


Just for fun here is the plunger and spring



Let me know if there is anything else I could help with.
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No, that's perfect.  Looks like all is good and I can reassemble.   I will put it together with the same amount of play that you had in yours and give her a try.   Thanks so much Travis.  
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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As far as pressure where you are checking it, you will see pressure only when you get to end of stroke if front wheels are off of ground, or when setting on a slick surface.
  Sounds like the adjusting nut is over tightened.   MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2012 at 9:42pm
Success!!  Thanks to all that replied back and thanks Travis for the pictures, the measurements, and the manual pics.   The AC manual does describe it much better.  After reading it a couple times, you can understand that at sitting position, fluid is going into both lines, and once it starts turning it will flow into one side, and flow out of the other.   I put everything back together and followed the measurement that Travis gave me as a guide for starters.   Started putting everything back together and got into a rythem so I didn't want to stop until I had it back on wheels and running so I could test yet tonite.   Put all of it together and refilled with universal hy/trans and started it up.   Like Macks says, the only time it will hit 1200 is when it is at the end of the stroke which it did, but this time you could feel the power steering helping you along when turning the wheel.   It is not as effortless as says my D15 or D17, but this one was also standing still in the garage and it has really big float tires on it right now, like 9.5x 16 or even bigger.   That won't be what's on it when I'm done.   I have a smaller set of 5.5 x 15 rims for pulling that are 6 bolt pattern so after I get those on, the footprint on the front will be much less then now.  I'm sure once I pull it out of the shop and give her a spin, it will be noticably different.   I do think that I messed up and had the adjusting nut too tight.   I think now it is much better, could go a hair looser on it, but I don't want it to be too fidgetty and I don't think I want to tear it all down again to make another minor adjustment.   I think things weren't working before due to all the gunk that I found in the system everywhere including underneath the relief valve so it was a good thing that I cleaned everything up.
 
Thanks again for all the help.   Definately added some knowledge in the AC section of the brain on this one for future reference.  
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Travis(NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2012 at 11:05pm
That's good news to hear Chuck! As you say it may even free up a little after you get it out and drive it some. The I&T manuals are nice and a great tool to have, but since the A-C manual is almost four times as thick should say something(like more pictures which always helps me). LOL Tomorrow at work I was going to try and scan more pages out of the A-C manual and send them to you as a pdf to help you out, if you would still like them let me know or I may just do it anyways if I have some spare time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 2:56am
Travis you are a good man, going the extra for Chuck and tearing your control apart to take pics and measurements.
  After seeing this thread, it makes me wonder even more why mine would have to be tough to start the turn of the steering wheel but once it started turning, it would have power to it. until you stopped and then had to go thru that hard spot and then it would turn the other way.
   Chuck, if its wagons rims on the front, it sets the tires out and beyound the center of the skeg and that makes it hard to steer.  Reguler rims were almost centered under it and they would turn real easy.... Got a D17 without PS and you can really tell the difference between the proper rims and the wrong rims. Like when you put on the old Buick car rims onto the 5 bolt pattern, better have some muscles. Glad to hear you had success. 
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