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Which is better: B or C?

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Goose View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 10:31am
Hi guys,
I'm thinking of getting either a B or a C. It would be used for light duty, maybe a belly mower is about it.
My question is this: In your opinion, which is better? I'm thinking the wide front on a B might make it better for the steep slopes on my land. Perhaps it wouldn't tip over as easy as the narrow front on a C.
 
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Rich Steiner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Steiner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 10:49am
I have a C with a narrow front and a B with a wide front.
The B has a Woods mower on it and works well on the field or lawn that I mow.
One section is a steep hill and the B handles it very well.

So I would say a B with the wide front is the one I would go with.
Now If I could just keep the darn running.  I think I need a Carb rebuild on it
Rich
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nathan (SD) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 10:52am

B seems more universal to me. C will turn in a tighter radius. A 6 ft mower will fit a B or C but a 5 ft on a C aint the best fit.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 10:54am
Same basic tractor, B would be more stable. But the C rear wheels set out much further for stability.
Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 10:55am
I have drove both.
 
I have only used the C for mowing with sickle mower, and cultivator. The narrow front works well for other farming attachments, easier to remove or attach.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greg_WJP_(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:16am
Goose,
I know it's not on your list, but I like the hand clutch on the CA.  It gives you the ability to creep up on yard obsticles without having to slow the mower blades or down shift.  Depending on where you're located you could come out and take mine for a test.  My yard always seems to need mowing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:18am
Greg,
I'm not far away. In fact, my brother lives just outside Eleva.
That is a good point about the CA. Are they common or rather hard to find for sale?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:19am
CA! I used the L59 on the CA. If the wheels are set in, the mower is offset enough for one side to get close to things. I never understood an advantage of a wide front when it pivots. If you are on a slope steep enough for a rear wheel to come off the ground, a pivoting wide front end will give very little advantage in stability. If it's steep enough to worry you, don't drive across it, go up and down the hill. A C and CA have the advantage of setting the wheels wider apart for slopes but your drive wheels may stick out past your mower. JMO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:27am
If you have a bank you wouldn't drive your C on then you shouldn't be driving your B on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:33am
I agree, Dick and your picture helps explain what I said. Mathematically there may be a very slight advantage to the wide front (with similar width back wheels)but I wouldn't bet my life on it testing a sidehill.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:36am
Okay, I was wrong about wide front ends. I was only thinking that a wide front end would provide more stability. I guessed wrong. Sorry. 
But now I'm thinking about a CA, based on what Greg said. Do you agree?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:40am
Yes, the ability to keep the PTO live will be a great asset in my opinion. 

However on most CA's, people say "Don't touch the stick!"
Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Murph-NC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:41am
You can't go wrong with any of them, but I agree that the CA's hand clutch puts it at the top of the list in my book.  And the narrow front on any model definitely makes it easier to get closer to obstacles when mowing.
'41 C w/Woods L503 mower, #3 mower, 2-way plows for C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:47am
Personally I would go with the CA, You can find a wide front one for stability if you're concerned and it has the hand clutch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pumpkin man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:47am
I have been useing a B with a L 306 woods mower for close to 30 years I mow about 2 acres every week . yes a narrow front  C turns shorter but the rear end is wider than the mower have used both like the B best.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote junkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:48am
you asked for a opinion, well here is mine. CA all the way. Extra gear, hand clutch, better lift, and easier adjusting back wheels. But there isn't as many CA's as there are B's and C's so you will have to look a little harder or pay a little more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 11:50am
The narrow vs. wide front stability issue is pretty simple, really... you just have to look at three very specific things.

First... the center of gravity.  CG on both machines will be pretty darned close to the same... typically, it's about midway down the torque-tube, darned near centered if not ballasted... but the CG moves farther back when tires are ballasted... and if tires are only half filled, the CG will be lower.

Second... the front end roll-center.  This is the point where the machine 'pivots' when the front of the tractor rolls across a plane which is laterally inclined in comparison to what the rear of the tractor is doing.  In a wide-front, it's the axle pivot point.  In a narrow-front, it's where the wheels contact the ground.

Finally... the point where the roll center changes.  In a wide-front, the roll center changes dramatically when the axle hit's it's pivot limit.  In a narrow front, the roll center never changes... always where front wheels touch the ground.

The tractor's stability is best when the center of gravity is LOWER than the roll axis, and since a NF's axis is on the GROUND, it's obviously at a disadvantage to a WF setup.  With the CG being LOWER than the roll-center, it will WANT to stay upright, and even moreso when the axle's articulation limit is reached, because this establishes a 'new' roll-center that is substantially left or right of the CG... at that point, an overturning condition requires the CG to be much, much higher for the roll to be able to continue.

All that being said, Dick's rule-of-thumb is a very good one to live by... and should be especially noted that rollovers more often occur because the footing on which the tractor rolls turns out not to be as good as assumed.  Having a wheel drop into a hole, or sink into soft ground is more often the cause of peril than a simple condition of traversing a steep incline.

If you're bucking steep hills, consider ballasting tires half-way, spreading out the track as much as you can stand, and fabbing up a stout ROPS to give you an opportunity to survive... and remember that most of the time, when a tractor rolls, if you try to jump to safety, you will most likely be flung in the direction the tractor is rolling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 12:07pm
I have a B/C does that count? B front, C rear. And lotsa' rust with hand brakes.........
Steve@B&B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlenninPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 12:46pm

but Steve, when I come down, I am going to bring you the short arm narrow front end so your tractor get's it's parts back......

I just got to get swapping parts around, cause I got a C/B with C front and B rear. And lotsa' rust with hand brakes.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 1:06pm

I give the wide front 1 point over the NF when it comes to mowing the edge of a ditch. In low gear I can keep an eye on the front wheel on the lower side and if it finds a hole or washout in tall grass, I have a chance to stop without upsetting. If the hole is big enough, once the rear wheel finds it, over you go. Otherwise, I agree there really isn't much difference. Front to rear center of gravity really isn't much, if any concern. It's the side to side that will bite...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:


Finally... the point where the roll center changes.  In a wide-front, the roll center changes dramatically when the axle hit's it's pivot limit.  In a narrow front, the roll center never changes... always where front wheels touch the ground.

Dave, I was hoping you would see this and jump in.
 Now if I was on a tractor that either had the uphill wheel off the ground or the down hill wheel sank for some reason, I don't think I would be too comfortable knowing that the roll center would change when the axle stopped pivoting. I think I would be wondering why I decide to try and mow the slope to begin with and how I was going to jump to the top side.
 I just see people talking about the wide front being more stable and never believed there was much difference. I thought having the pivot point up at axle level instead of on the ground would add a very minimal amount of stability.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 2:07pm
You guys didn't grow up on Honda ATC's did you? Whew you had to watch yourself on hills!
I never had a narrow front tractor, hope to be adding one to my stable this weekend.
Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 4:45pm
When the wide front axle hits the pivot stop, the tilt pivot gets moved way out, to the bottom of the tire, much further from the center of gravity.

Then when one front wheel of a narrow front finds a hole the whole front of the tractor is generally in that hole, but if one front wheel of a wide front finds a hole the front of the tractor only sinks half as far.

Wide or narrow, there are a few things that will turn 'em over every time. On a slope dropping the down hill rear in a hole, or bouncing the up hill rear over a rock or stump. On the bank of a creek, pond or gully that's undercut when it caves off the tractor is gone, even if a crawler.

Rear wheel weight helps in safety, spreading the rear wheels out as far as possible helps safety, but there are some hill sides and banks that the row crop tractor should not be on going cross wise, maybe not going up, and less often going down. These critters are made for FLAT level ground they aren't mountain goats.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 7:06pm
Back to the original question.  The B and C are the same tractor.  The only difference is the B is a one row wide front narrow rear wheel set, and the C is a two row narrow front with a wider rear end.  There is a little differnce in the gearing cause they were trying to make the C a light two plow tractor.  If the tractor is used for lawn mowing I would suggest the B.  Why, wide front - not for safety - but for the fact that you would leave less wheel marks. 
Now if you talk about a CA all bets are off.  Little more power, four speeds, live PTO, better hyd. 
Let us know what you do.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 10:09pm
All things considered, you also have the weight of the mower down at the ground level helping to lower the center of gravity. I mow with a wide front CA and a belly mower or a narrow front CA with a brush hog. The narrow front presses down too much grass and weeds and 2 days later it all pops up again. I'm thinking of putting the belly mower on 1 of the B's. Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 5:46am
I mowed my driveway ditches with the C narrow front but with the wheels turned around. It was so wide I felt safe on any part of my 1/2 mile long ditches. I turned the wheels around after I noticed that once in a while the upside wheel would lose traction. One little gopher mound would have put it over. Now there are so danged many gopher mounds that it's too hard on my mower deck so I just use the brush cutter behind the 190. I'll pay $4 a gopher if anybody wants to go trapping on my place plus the township will give you $2 or $2.50. Serious, they chewed through our phone line twice in the past 4 or 5 years.
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Lonn, Easy fix for the gophers. Go to the coops or farm store and get a gab of those little blue pellets that you feed the mice and rats. Pour a hand full down each hole.  It will make the gophers nice and fat. They don't get fat until they stop moving and time and heat get to them but fat in any case.
 
I once had a lake house in an area that was over run with chipmunks. Several of the neighbors had live traps and would (relocate the gophers) I had bought the little blew pellets for years to put in out building at the farm. I had a lot of shrubs and new trees on my lake property. I would place the pellets around the base of the shrubs. You could see the chipmunks skampering around with their cheeks puffed out from those little blue pellets. After a few weeks I very seldom would see a chipmunk.
 
They had a neighborhood meeting on what to do about the chipmunk problem. I didn't attend. My next door neighbor stopped me to tell me what I had missed. He said I can't understand why most of the neighborhood has such a big problem and we don't. I told him that I would't have any idea. He never did ask about the rotten animal smell that got real bad as they seemed to go away.  Most of the people in that area were from the city and would have been up in arms if they knew why a coupla of houses on both sides of me didn't have a chipmunk problem.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 8:17am
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

Lonn, Easy fix for the gophers. Go to the coops or farm store and get a gab of those little blue pellets that you feed the mice and rats. Pour a hand full down each hole.  It will make the gophers nice and fat. They don't get fat until they stop moving and time and heat get to them but fat in any case.
 
I once had a lake house in an area that was over run with chipmunks. Several of the neighbors had live traps and would (relocate the gophers) I had bought the little blew pellets for years to put in out building at the farm. I had a lot of shrubs and new trees on my lake property. I would place the pellets around the base of the shrubs. You could see the chipmunks skampering around with their cheeks puffed out from those little blue pellets. After a few weeks I very seldom would see a chipmunk.
 
They had a neighborhood meeting on what to do about the chipmunk problem. I didn't attend. My next door neighbor stopped me to tell me what I had missed. He said I can't understand why most of the neighborhood has such a big problem and we don't. I told him that I would't have any idea. He never did ask about the rotten animal smell that got real bad as they seemed to go away.  Most of the people in that area were from the city and would have been up in arms if they knew why a coupla of houses on both sides of me didn't have a chipmunk problem.
 
 
 

Ya, I guess that's my next step. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 8:21am
There is on other factor that can make a tractor unstable. When operating on a slope and you feel the up hill tire getting light if you hit the down hill brake versus the up hill, it will make the situation worse. Don't ask how I know. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 8:35am
I prefer the NF C for mowing. it manuvers much better. having a narrow front I can swing in where the wide front wont fit. The guage wheels should be carring the wieght of the mower. I also have a CA and have had the mower on it. no real advantage to it. If the grass is to thick to mow the hand clutch dosen't do any good. In fact the hand clutch on a CA is pretty worthless. you have to hold it back to keep the trac tor from moving. when the tree wacks you in the face the first thing that happens is you let go. 
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