D17 throttle

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   New to me D17 Series 1, had it about 2 weeks:  Runs smoothly, idles fine, but seems like it goes from a moderate fast idle right to throttled up and wound out with little in between.  Not much increase for first 2/3 of the movement down of the lever then she's off to the races with the governor kicking in.  That's me mentally comparing it to my WD, WD-45, 170 and 175--all gasoline engines.  I looked at the linkages, governor, springs and it all seems in order.   Normal for a D17?  I did find an old post of Dr. Allis that said the have a stiff spring and quick response. 

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Steve A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 230	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17 throttle Posted: 20 hours 53 minutes ago at 8:03pm
	New to me D17 Series 1, had it about 2 weeks: Runs smoothly, idles fine, but seems like it goes from a moderate fast idle right to throttled up and wound out with little in between. Not much increase for first 2/3 of the movement down of the lever then she's off to the races with the governor kicking in. That's me mentally comparing it to my WD, WD-45, 170 and 175--all gasoline engines. I looked at the linkages, governor, springs and it all seems in order. Normal for a D17? I did find an old post of Dr. Allis that said the have a stiff spring and quick response.

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21448	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 hours 14 minutes ago at 6:42am
	A D-17 governor has a stiffer internal spring so the engine will run faster. Like 2000 RPM versus 1700 RPM as a WD/WD45 does. With the engine OFF, pull the hand throttle to the wide open position. Remove the small cotter pin from the governor to carburetor link rod at the vertical governor arm directly behind the generator. Pull the link rod out of the vertical governor arm hole. The vertical governor arm should not move. If it moves to the rear, put a bend in the middle of the link rod downward to make the link rod shorter enough to slip back into the vertical arm hole. Ideally, I like the link rod to be 1/16" shorter than needed. This (if done correctly) has now synchronized the governor weights to the carburetor throttle butterfly plate. THERE ARE ZERO SPRINGS CONNECTED TO ANY OF THIS GOVERNOR LINKAGE!!! REMOVE THEM IF THERE ARE ANY !!!! There are 4 other things that can make a governor not work right: #1. make absolutely sure the link rods cotter pin at the carburetor end is trimmed short and wrapped tight so it cannot interfere with linkage movement. You can't believe how many problems I've found there over the years from the cotter pin getting caught in the movement of the linkage. #2. In the same area, the throttle shaft arm on the carb has to be tight on the shaft and not loose. This throws everything off if it isn't tight on the carb throttle shaft. #3. There can be no binding or catching of the governor arm to carb linkage of any kind. I have seen carburetor throttle shafts that were binding in the carb, which will NOT work. Everything must be free to move 100% thru their stroke. #4. The vertical governor arm (when the link rod is disconnected from it) must NOT move forward or backwards easily, not against the governor spring tension. If the arm is loose, the internal retaining pin has come loose and this throws everything off in adjustment. Edited by DrAllis - 10 hours 9 minutes ago at 6:47am

Steve A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 230	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 6 hours 24 minutes ago at 10:32am
	Thanks once again Dr. !! That is information I needed. I'll go down that list adjusting and rechecking. I already repositioned the cable from the distributor to the tach, as it was rubbing on the linkage.