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flem1951 
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Joined: 26 Mar 2022
Location: crow, oregon
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 Topic: allis chalmers 160 fuel injection pump
Posted: 08 Apr 2022 at 3:12pm |
greetings!
I replaced my fuel filter and attempted to prime the system. i have fuel coming out of the lower vent on the pump. no fuel out of the top of the filter or the upper vent on the pump. I do have some fuel dribbling at the injectors. i pulled the top off the pump and the meter valve is moving freely. the governor plate does not move when i move the throttle though. not sure if that should move or not? I am at a loss at this point as to why I have no fuel moving through the system. Any ideas would be appreciated.
thx
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 08 Apr 2022 at 3:56pm |
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If it's been sitting and nasty inside, the plungers may be stuck. You can try blowing compressed air into the lower bleeder. The top bleeder doesn't have to flow fuel for it to run, the lower one is the important one.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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BrianC
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Posted: 08 Apr 2022 at 4:08pm |
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flem1951
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Posted: 09 Apr 2022 at 8:46am |
thanks for that. shouldn't i be getting fuel out of the top of the filter? have you ever pulled one of these pumps apart? if i do dismantle it, do you have any suggestions on what i am looking for to solve the problem?
i tried blowing air into the vent, no success there.
thx
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 09 Apr 2022 at 10:19am |
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My bet is you put a seal in the top of the filter in the wrong place, and blocks flow. If you aren't getting fuel to the filter, don't start tearing the injection pump apart lol! If injection pump needs to come apart, you're best off sending it to a qualified pump shop. Many do it yourself jobs go south in a hurry. There's too many expensive parts that people just don't know about.
Edited by injpumpEd - 09 Apr 2022 at 10:21am
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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AC720Man
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Posted: 09 Apr 2022 at 10:03pm |
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Save yourself from ruining your pump and send to Ed, he knows them inside and out. Fair price, great work.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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tbran
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Location: Paris Tn
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Posted: 11 Apr 2022 at 8:45pm |
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Ed is probably on to the issue - NAPA and others sell the WRONG filter for AC's and MF's . They have the correct filter but their charts are wrong - we called them with a # our local NAPA gave after we explained the issue. The man on the phone told me "we are napa and sell more filters than anyone - we don't need your input..." Anyway look at the TOP of the filter - it should have HOLES in the top and bottom. IF the top of the filter is solid flat metal with a small slot around the edge - the flat oring - if over tightend or when it gets old will block off the fuel flow. We have probably a hundred cases where the wrong filter affects fuel flow and resulting issues. On my 160s I have issues with plugging in the drain cock - the FIRST sediment bowl and then the first inlet banjo bolt fitting going into the manual fuel supply pump. When you have a good supply pump and fuel flow fuel will gush out of the fuel pump bleeders. Whether the plungers are stuck or not is not an issue as to bleeding as Ed stated -if you get a good stream out of the lower bleeder then loosen one line and turn it over - if you have run the battery down pull it in high gear to avoud starter damage. When fuel comes out stop and tighten line and it will start. If you get no fuel the plungers could be stuck or you have no transfer pump pressure -- a real low occurrence. . Also after thinking - we have seen the oem fuel line come apart and block flow - these can be repaired but grinding off the brass collar the crimps the hose - pulling out the banjo fitting and reinstall some good american made fuel line and hose clamp. This works on all lowe pressure rubber lines on Deutz-Perkins - SAME etc engines.
Edited by tbran - 11 Apr 2022 at 8:48pm
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 12 Apr 2022 at 7:10am |
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good info T! I have not seen those filters fail in use, it is the owner/installer mistakenly installs a rubber seal ring inside the top lip of the filter, right where the fuel passage is lol! Not sure what they thought that was going to seal up there, except fuel flow lol! The seal for the top goes in a groove in the filter header, then below the element, or between element and glass bowl. Small oring seals the center post keeping dirty and clean fuel separated.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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BrianC
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Posted: 12 Apr 2022 at 5:20pm |
From the AGCO online parts book.
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BrianC
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Posted: 12 Apr 2022 at 6:14pm |
I posted the picture from the parts book so you can see the 3 rubber gaskets. And yes, out there for sale is a mess of filters and parts. Same for the cartridge style oil filter. See that link I posted. Follow those instructions. Including my tip to rotate the engine some if the lift pump's manual lever doesn't feel like it is pumping.
Apparently you are not getting past the first part ok, purging air from the fuel filter. So the guys suspect wrong gaskets, fuel filter and o-ring issues. However, could be you made a mistake in following the (PIA) bleed procedure. Remember, with the first three steps there is no engine cranking, just manually pumping the lever on the fuel lift pump.
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