7045 Crank Broke - Rebuild or Swap?

I know this has been discussed many times but wanted any new opinions I could get. The crank in my 7045 is broke. What’s everyone’s thoughts on rebuilding or replacing with another 426 vs a swap of a Cummins or something similar? This is my main tractor and will be for a few years. I want something I can depend on as much as possible. Thanks and happy new year!

Had the engine been overhauled before?

I don’t know forsure. I just bought the tractor with the understanding something was off with the motor. I knew it was a gamble but I didn’t plan on the crank because it seemed to be running well. The way the oil pan gasket was on, I think it’s been off before. The crank broke in front of the number 1 cylinder which seems kinda strange.

I don’t know honestly. My friend that’s helping me with it said he was really surprised how it was broke and wasn’t sure why it would do that.

A 5.9 cummings would be cheap compared to rebuilding the 426 and it would also have more power and be rock solid dependable. However fixing the Allis motor would retain it's value.

Good call, as it would not be price comparison in no way - 

unless one is doing the labor and not figuring and labor cost - I think one will find the labor + adaptor stuff will = the price of that engine... we have done 3 , on deutz and 2 Cummins... unless one has a complete kit - figure 30 hours... min,,, adaptor, flywheel, torque limiter, fuel lines, front motor mounts, rear plate, AC - radiator hook ups , alternator and wiring throttle controls , exhaust system, mating intake from air filter... and probably 10 other things I forgot.    I would shop for a salvage 426  form a L or N and swap out the front cover, pulley === probably less hours than a tractor motor.  

DrAllis wrote: Give me a price for a 5.9 Cummins that will make 170 HP at the flywheel. New or used or whatever.

I've never seen an XT turbo diesel crank break, but my crankshaft grinder is extremely anal about how to actually grind a crankshaft and making the radius grinds perfect. A good deal of crank grinders don't understand that and grind the corners nearly square and then down the road, a crank may break. A good friend of mine, who was an old AC dealer had multiple XT cranks break over the many years he was in business and figured out it was his machinist who was causing the problem. Some crankshafts should NEVER be reground undersized because they have been gotten hot from a bearing burnout. Whenever that happens, the crank is usually junk even tho it may magnaflux OK for cracks.

Then, your failure was due to a bad crank pulley damper or a bad piece of crankshaft steel. Line bore probably wasn't the issue unless the repairman had it line-bored while apart.

My 8070 manual is very specific about journal fillet radius...even diagrams it for the slow.

PaulB wrote: A 5.9 cummings would be cheap compared to rebuilding the 426 and it would also have more power and be rock solid dependable. However fixing the Allis motor would retain it's value.

IMO basteredized 7000 series have even less value regardless if the new engine is supposedly better or not. Myself, at auction, I'd pass and look for something else. 

The NON aftercooled 5.9s (89-90 and later automatic equipped trucks) were also rated at 160 HP. I have one. Then as EPA demanded the fuel was cut back and timing retarded for truck engines, thus the aftercooler brought them back to 160 rated HP, as this 93 I have available engine is. Now turn the screws  and roll the pump towards the head an WaLaa , your back to the 200 HP area.  Then the next step is the P7100 pump and 250+ even 300 is doable and they will live, even 400 is possible as a turn the key and it goes (and goes and goes and goes...) engine. Unlike a lot of engines that become a time bomb when turned up. They just take a bit more fuel to do that without affecting durability.

I've never seen a diesel crank that wasn't Forged Steel. 

Friend of mine has a complete N5 engine for sale. $2500.00. Central Iowa location.