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Kohler engine

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DaveWisc. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveWisc. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Kohler engine
    Posted: 12 Jul 2020 at 6:37pm
Ok I know should put this in Garden part but I just got done using break in oil and need to change oil in the engine so.I bought by mistake 15/30 synthetic oil have never used synethiic oil so can use it in that old an engine.Thanks Dave
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2020 at 7:13pm
If the Kohler is old ( K series), dump the new put in SAE30 or whatever Kohler says.
While ANY engine will run with ANY type oil in it, you'll get best results using whatever type the MFR recommends .Brand of oil isn't important, it's the 'spec' that counts.
Also if 'newly ' rebuilt, change the oil after say 50 hrs or whaterver the MFR says.
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Brian G. NY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2020 at 8:29pm
You are probably opening up a big can of worms here. LOL

Just remember, the oil spec'd for an old engine was probably the best available "at the time".
I am a firm believer that today's motor oil has a lot to offer beyond what was available 'in the old days" so I use Mobil 1 10W30 in all my old Kohler engines.
Most don't have oil pressure gauges but the Magnum 18 that I have does have and it runs higher oil pressure when hot  while using synthetic oil.

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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2020 at 6:39am
I don't know who recommends this, but have always heard it said.
 Recommendation. Conventional engine oil should always be used to break-in a new or rebuilt engine. ... Synthetic oil contains additives and friction modifiers that will slow down the break-in process.
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Brian G. NY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2020 at 9:46am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

I don't know who recommends this, but have always heard it said.
 Recommendation. Conventional engine oil should always be used to break-in a new or rebuilt engine. ... Synthetic oil contains additives and friction modifiers that will slow down the break-in process.

I have always read that as well.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2020 at 9:51am
I was always taught a 10W or 20W NON-DETERGENT for the break-in process and 50 hrs run time.
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Tbone95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2020 at 11:08am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

I don't know who recommends this, but have always heard it said.
 <span ="ILfuVd"><span ="e24Kjd">Recommendation. Conventional engine oil should always be used to break-in a new or rebuilt engine. ... Synthetic oil contains additives and friction modifiers that will slow down the break-in process.</span></span>

Yeah. It's basically saying, the oil is so "good" and "protective" that your engine won't break in. (That juuuuuuust right amount of wear of rings seating and such).
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2020 at 11:35pm
The biggest break-in problem people have with the K-series Kohler singles, is that they start them up and listen to them run, but don't put a proper load on them... hence, there's no significant combustion pressure to force the rings to seat.

I haven't done any lately, but 20 years ago, I built a dozen or so, including the 'somewhat stronger' K241 in my 109 plow-pulling beastie.  I did at least six 241's, several 301's, and a 341.

I built all my K-singles for my Cub Cadet hydrostat (WF, NF, and QL series) tractors... and my process was to start them up just long enough to get timing and carb set, then hop on and head down the street, to a hill, run them up to governed speed, and advance the hydro until the engine started to pull down from high idle to governed speed, then run up that (quarter-mile) hill... then drive back down (basically coasting, right?), then repeating about four times.  The return down the hill provided cooling time between 'pulls', but after four runs up the hill, I had seated rings.

Kohler K-singles don't have oil filters...  they just get changes.   I used conventional for the break-in run up the hill and back, then drained and put in 10-30 Mobil 1.  Aside from the fact that I beat the daylights out'a those motors, they all did fine...
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