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Thad in AR. 
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 Topic: Third fuel pump
Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 6:04am |
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I’ve got to go get the third fuel pump for the old Ford project.
I stripped the threads out of the first one. It wasn’t cross threaded either. I had it snug with my finger and then snugged it with a wrench. It stripped right out.
I then bought a new one and installed it. Yesterday I drove it to town to fill it up. It ran perfect.
Went to show it off to a friend and it started ticking and sounded like a lifter. I was a little concerned. I headed home and it acted like it ran out of fuel. Limped it home and started pulling fuel lines and blowing air through everything. It has a clear filter. I was watching it and it would get a little squirt now and then but not much.
The tick got worse and started to squeak. I got my stethoscope out and found it to be the fuel pump. I removed it and it has a lot of free play before it gets tension and would squeak at the end of the stroke. I tapped on it and something snapped shut and no more free play. I worked it again and then it stuck again.
You can tell by looking that these are junk.
Wondering if I should go to Napa and buy one?
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fixer1958
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 6:34am |
Most any aftermarket parts you get anymore is a crap shoot. Hold your breath kind of thing. Napa, O'reilly usually the same chit in a different box. Advance is mostly old Carquest stock. Where did you get those at?
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DMiller
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 6:40am |
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Plate the hole off and install a electric.
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 7:51am |
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Dave and that's probably Chinese to, be nice if all our manufacturing comes back home. Even with the kids who want to work but learning the trades, it can't be any worse than 10-12 year old's pumping out product with no quality control, just make the quota demands.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 7:55am |
 fixer1958 wrote:
Most any aftermarket parts you get anymore is a crap shoot. Hold your breath kind of thing. Napa, O'reilly usually the same chit in a different box. Advance is mostly old Carquest stock. Where did you get those at?
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It came from Oreilly’s NAPA sold so I switched to Oreilly’s.
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 7:57am |
DMiller wrote:
Plate the hole off and install a electric. |
🤣🤣🤣 I went through a lot to put that hole there on this fuel injected motor. I won’t be plating it off. Not a fan of electric pumps. In tank or inline either.
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fixer1958
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 8:25am |
Is it a throttle body injected like Eldebrock makes? Standard throttle body injection is I think 9-13 psi. Mechanical should keep up with that. Don't know why they aren't holding up though. Spend more money I guess. Look at Summit.
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HD6GTOM
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 8:34am |
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I have found anything like that from O'Reilly's is a crap shoot. Only time I go in there is -- a situation on Sunday where it is a must have problem.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 9:06am |
this one seems to have a good rating according to those who bought it ?
ACDelco ??
Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Apr 2020 at 9:09am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 10:11am |
fixer1958 wrote:
Is it a throttle body injected like Eldebrock makes? Standard throttle body injection is I think 9-13 psi. Mechanical should keep up with that. Don't know why they aren't holding up though. Spend more money I guess. Look at Summit.
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Late model motor in a carbureted truck. No EFI. 4 barrel carb.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 12:20pm |
Hey Thad ,,and I was wantin for you to have you a powerful trouble free trk,,,,and we gonna do what we can to get you there,,!! AS you already know,,the engine has no idea nor does it care what kind of induction system is feeding it,,,it just wants a steady supply of fuel at whatever pressure the carb needs. While it may be puzzling at two fuel pumps not being up to the low pressure the Performer carb needs,,,it sure may be you wount up with a couple of bad ones. In this case the third one will prolly be the charm. Is it a possibility you got the actuator rod in the block being a tad short or maybe hanging up causing a NO FLOW to carb? I didn't understand your comments about having a hard time fixin the fuel pump rod,,,??
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 12:22pm |
Do a Shameless and mount your gas tank on top of the cab and let gravity do its work. 
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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johnkc
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 12:28pm |
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order a marine one from Discount Inboard Marine, 126.00
Edited by johnkc - 06 Apr 2020 at 12:30pm
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I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS!
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 12:41pm |
desertjoe wrote:
 Hey Thad ,,and I was wantin for you to have you a powerful trouble free trk,,,,and we gonna do what we can to get you there,,!!  AS you already know,,the engine has no idea nor does it care what kind of induction system is feeding it,,,it just wants a steady supply of fuel at whatever pressure the carb needs. While it may be puzzling at two fuel pumps not being up to the low pressure the Performer carb needs,,,it sure may be you wount up with a couple of bad ones. In this case the third one will prolly be the charm. Is it a possibility you got the actuator rod in the block being a tad short or maybe hanging up causing a NO FLOW to carb?  I didn't understand your comments about having a hard time fixin the fuel pump rod,,,??
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Joe Fords don’t have a rod. The arm on the fuel pump rides on an eccentric on the end of the cam. This second one worked perfect for about 69 miles. Then it started ticking and low pressure. The diaphragm was not returning and it made lots of free play in the pump. I was able to rap it with a hammer and get it to snap shut a couple times but then not again.
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 4:45pm |
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Go to Rockauto.com and see what they have. Even if you don't buy from them they will have multiple brands usually and it might give you enough information to find a better part. I will almost always buy my parts from them if I can wait a week to get it.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 5:31pm |
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Do you have a pressure regulator after the pump or does the pump have an internal fuel return. Sometimes a single outlet pump will self destruct if pumping without someplace for the excess pressure to go.
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Boss Man
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 5:32pm |
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What motor is this? I don't remember exactly which engines but I do remember there being 2 different pumps for some engines. The arm was different and you couldn't interchange them
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 8:26pm |
Boss Man wrote:
What motor is this? I don't remember exactly which engines but I do remember there being 2 different pumps for some engines. The arm was different and you couldn't interchange them |
351 Windsor. The pump worked perfect for 60 miles and then came apart on the inside.
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 8:30pm |
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Oreilly’s ordered a third pump in for me. I picked it up tonight. Much better looking pump. A little heavier they said same brand but the box is different and this one appears to be much better made. The spring is much stouter.
The truck is now running again.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 10:39pm |
"Third time is the charm" sure glad you got her settled down,,,,, 
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desertjoe
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Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 10:43pm |
The thing I always like'ed bout them 351W's with the 3 piece timing chain dialed into the advanced notch,,,is how very responsive the engine is,,,,,almost kin to a SBC,,,,,,, It gonna make you a great torque engine,,,,you be wanting to fill the bed plumb up with tools,,,
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 6:35am |
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Now I have a battery issue to work out.
I have the truck running good but the battery is weak and won’t start it except after a fresh charge. I took the battery to Oreilly’s where I bought it. The guy tested it saying yep it’s a good battery. I’ve tested the alternator and it’s charging. All new battery cables. Considered the starter dragging but a jump start will crank it right over.
I think I’ll take the battery some place else for testing.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 9:04am |
Hey Thad,,did the guy at Oreillys do a "load test" on the battery. I think when Oreillys does training on new employees, they teach em to ONLY check the total voltage on the battery and NOT do a load test!! I KNOW,,I seen the dude do exactly that,,, and he told me with great confidence,," You ain't suppossed to do that!! I told him,,that is what that little switch is for on the machine!! I've had batteries that show 12-13 volts on the machine and fall to zero with the load test,!! Walmart will replace them with a load test. In your case,,the starter must be dragging ,,,,? Maybe pull it and check for signs on the armature I'll bet new brushes and bushings will cure the problem,,,,,
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 7:20pm |
desertjoe wrote:
 Hey Thad,,did the guy at Oreillys do a "load test" on the battery. I think when Oreillys does training on new employees, they teach em to ONLY check the total voltage on the battery and NOT do a load test!! I KNOW,,I seen the dude do exactly that,,, and he told me with great confidence,," You ain't suppossed to do that!! I told him,,that is what that little switch is for on the machine!! I've had batteries that show 12-13 volts on the machine and fall to zero with the load test,!! Walmart will replace them with a load test. In your case,,the starter must be dragging ,,,,? Maybe pull it and check for signs on the armature I'll bet new brushes and bushings will cure the problem,,,,, |
The battery from my tractor cranks it fine.🤣 I’ll try the morning guy tomorrow.
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 08 Apr 2020 at 7:40am |
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Ifin he says its good I'd, suspect their tester is broke or rigged for sales.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 08 Apr 2020 at 11:46am |
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Took it back to Oreilly’s for the morning shift guys. I know them . Tested ok and they did the load test. I’m thinking the starter might drag when warm and I’m wondering if something isn’t draining the battery.
Edited by Thad in AR. - 08 Apr 2020 at 11:47am
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Red Bank
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Posted: 08 Apr 2020 at 1:42pm |
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Are you running headers and the starter is getting hot and dragging?
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desertjoe
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Posted: 08 Apr 2020 at 1:58pm |
Hey Thad,,if there is a Harbor freight close to you,,,you have got to get you one of these Battery Load testers for just $19.99. Checks battery voltage, does Load test, checks starters and Charging systems. A word of caution, tho, Do Not press the load toggle switch while engine is running!! I use mine almost every day for one thing and another,,,,,,,I'm still thinkin you gots a paracitic drag in the starter,,,?
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Thad in AR.
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Posted: 08 Apr 2020 at 6:36pm |
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Joe we have a Harbor freight in Rogers 25 miles away. I will buy one of those testers but right now Jenny won’t let me go to the city.
I put the battery back in and drove it 10 miles. When I got home it wouldn’t start. I removed the starter and will test it tomorrow. Looked like a lot of rust in the seam between the backing plate and field housing. Looks like it’s been full of water. It turns by hand but doesn’t sound good. There’s a little play in the front bushing but not much.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 08 Apr 2020 at 10:50pm |
You know,,,,I sure did hate when the last Mom & Pop parts store closed up last year,,,,I loved the fact that you could go in there and get an overhaul set of bushings and brushes for any starter or generator or alternator,,,, Now,,them dudes at oreillys or autozone just get that dumb look on their face,,just friggin agravating,,,it is,,,,!!! HMMMmm,,I wonder if you can still get those kits on Ebay or maybe amazon,,??
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