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Final update on my WD hubs! Success! |
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garden_guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Location: Illinois Points: 1150 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Sep 2019 at 9:56pm |
If you have been following my WD hubs saga, here is my final update... As you may know, I ordered new hubs because my old ones were shot. Added new races. Added new bearings. New grease. The works. But still had some play that was giving me grief. Had a lot of nasty wear on my bearing spacer due to the side to side pounding of the hubs along with stuff spinning that shouldn't be... So a buddy of mine made me a small spacer on his lathe to take up the slop and to keep it so the hubcap wouldn't touch the spindle when re-assembled (as it was scarily close, especially on one side). It's nice because the bearing spacer is essentially 1.500" ID and 2.000" OD, so I was able to find some shim stock that was close as a starting spot. ![]() I used my bearing race installer to install the cup washer seal the proper direction this time. ![]() Everything nicely repacked, tightened down, cotter pinned. Look at that freshly painted hub, I'm sure that will never look this shiny again lol. ![]() After a six hour marathon session this afternoon, I got both sides put back together and got her back out with the mower for the first time in a year! Feels fantastic to finally have gotten this issue knocked out, and the front end is super solid now and doesn't slide all over while driving. It feels entirely different driving now than it ever has; more responsive and easier to hold straight! ![]() Oh, and I put a hubcap off a WC on it to replace that old brazed one that had been sliced through before I got it (probably before I was born honestly). ![]() Thanks for the assistance along the way everybody. It's been quite a learning experience and an adventure! |
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2956 |
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Looks good to me !
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8485 |
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GG,
Awesome! Yes so nice to get them back to how they were early in their life. You did good. Yes sometimes a shim or a spacer is required to keep these things moving along! Get out there and work that old girl! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Location: Illinois Points: 1150 |
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ACinSC - Thanks! Sugarmaker -- Indeed, it's incredible how nice it is to mow with this now. It'll be even more awesome once I get the calcium worn rear rims fixed up (gonna have somebody else fix that for me, as I can't weld and don't have the equipment). I've got two spare spacers in case when I tear into my other WD, it has similar issues (gotta plan in advance). Thanks for all the show and tell on your tractor thread. It did actually take a bit of hammering to get the cup washers to fit down in the hubs as per that pic, but boy it looks nice with them assembled that way. Went through 4 of those blue nitrile gloves trying to keep the red grease off my hands, but that was a lost cause! I think I used a full tube of Mystik hi-temp red grease between the two hubs.
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chaskaduo ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5200 |
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Your neighbors are gonna think you sobered up now when they see your fields.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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garden_guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Location: Illinois Points: 1150 |
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Hahaha, I'm still not sure if I can drive a straight line with the plow nor the disc.
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garden_guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Location: Illinois Points: 1150 |
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So just for fun, I tallied up the last 2 years of expenditures on this saga... Here is where I am at (prices include shipping): Parts:
Replacement Front Hubs (x2) -- $150 Front Wheel Bearing Kit (x2) -- $120 Wheel Clamp Lock Nut (x2) -- $50 Bearing Spacer Shims (x4) -- $25 Replacement Hub Caps (from a WC) (x2) -- $30 Front Wheel Lug Bolts (x4) -- $10 Tools: Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit -- $40 Bearing Race Punch -- $25 #7 Thread File (8-27 TPI SAE) -- $15 Tube of Mystic Red Grease -- $3 10 Pack of Nitrile Gloves -- $2 Front Wheel: New 5-Bolt Rim -- $100 New Tire, 3-Rib, Mounted -- $80 ------------------------------------ Total Parts: $385 Total Tools: $85 Total Wheel: $180 Total Cost: $650 |
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chaskaduo ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5200 |
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Gotta spend your money some how, can't take it with you when you check out. You also have something you enjoy to show for it, lots of people don't have anything to show for their money spent. Lots of people blow their money on drinking, drugs, or gambling into debt. So you did good.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2956 |
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Glad you got it fixed . I enjoy fixing things on my D 15 . It's not hard since there's so much broken or not right . I don't really wanna keep up with the cost too much though . Ignorance is bliss right ? ☺️ Thanks
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22825 |
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I've put in hundreds of bearings and races over my years and never herd of a bearing race punch
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2956 |
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Yeah Charles , I also wondered about that . Maybe something new ? Thanks
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Alberta Phil ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3917 |
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If it lasts for another 65 years like the first time, that comes out to only $10 per year.
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garden_guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Location: Illinois Points: 1150 |
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No regrets on spending my money on the old gals for sure, and thanks for all the compliments! They're my favorite hobby, and I want to keep them going as best as I can for as long as I can (even if I have to spend a bit of extra money along the way to try and do it right). Even got some good mowing in today! ![]() ![]() Repair seems to be solid. Can tell the next wobble in the system is either from the steering or within the pedestal itself, not the hub assembly. Mowed real good and steering was good and tight!
Also, RE: Bearing Race Punch... It looks like a giant rod with an oval on the tip so you can knock the old bearing races out. Pretty sure any punch or chisel type device could be made to work for removal, or solid piece of round steel provided it was hard enough. However, I am super glad I bought the bearing race and seal installer. I installed 4 races and the 2 cup washer seals with it. Edited by garden_guy - 15 Sep 2019 at 12:30am |
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2956 |
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My punch has a round tip . An oval tip would probably work a little better . Learn something new every day . Thanks
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4070 |
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She looks good out in the field working.
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garden_guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2013 Location: Illinois Points: 1150 |
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ACinSC -- I must admit, it works pretty good, albeit the one I bought was a bit long and hard to control. But the tip is like this: ![]() Fits right in the slot and you just slug away. IBWD Mike -- Thank you! :)
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2956 |
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May have to get one of these the next time I need to knock out a race . Thanks
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allis g ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 10 Jan 2012 Location: Templeton Points: 412 |
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650 $ beats the heck out of the price for a new tractor
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