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rhead1 
Bronze Level
Joined: 20 May 2019
Location: Michigan
Points: 24
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 Topic: Drive flange bolt loosening
Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 8:24pm |
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I have a HD6B. The left drive flange that is connected to the steering clutch has had the large bolt loosen two times, The last time i put a small amount of lock tite on it and it happened again. Has anyone had this happen? The washer has a pin in it and it has a bend washer to stop the self loosening. Any one have a fix for this. I have tightened the bolt with a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a pipe on it. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high (300 ft lbs). Short of me getting really good at removing the steering clutch, it is really a problem. The one thing that I didn't do is wack the flange after tightening it, such that I have done to the Drive Sprocket. The flange is not over worn and it has about 1/16" protruding from the shaft.
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3800
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 10:11am |
is this the nut that holds the disk driven by steering clutch to the pinion shaft? sounds like the splines are worn and its moving enough to back nut off? not sure what would stop it short of welding or replacing hub/ shaft
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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gemdozer
Orange Level
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Points: 1001
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 11:51am |
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The bevel gear shaft or the hub stering cluch driving splenne must be to worn.
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41882
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Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 11:19am |
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think at this point i would use a wicking locktite on both the nut and the shaft -- another thing is be sure the washer is allowing itself to draw up tite to the flange to push flange home to bearing .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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rhead1
Bronze Level
Joined: 20 May 2019
Location: Michigan
Points: 24
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Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 7:53pm |
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Thank you all for the insight. I will be taking it all apart again tomorrow. I have some awesome locktite bearing retainer for the shaft and locktite for the bolt.
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41882
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Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 8:31am |
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Be sure to clean it well before locktite - they do have a primer also that acts as a cleaner
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24405
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Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 2:44pm |
what Coke says... it gotta be REAL CLEAN of locktite to work.. and use the 'thread' strength NOT the 'permanent' version or it'll cost you large later.....don't ask...
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22822
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Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 3:16pm |
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I would use green 680 loctite. It's supposed to be permanent, but a slight amount of heat will soften it enough to get a nut or bolt out after using.
CLEAN is a must, we used to chase the threads, then spray with brake clean 2 or 3 times, blowing off with an air hose in between.
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