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Hunt4Allis 
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 Topic: AC 80 t sickle mower check?
Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 2:25am |
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I've removed the sickle guards and blade including the teeth but am not real sure how to check for anything that's worn in the two head drive?( I had someone reply to this a while ago but I can't find it now or remember what they said to check and instead of replying to it again I figured it was best to start a new thread)
Thanks Matt
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DiyDave
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 4:39am |
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Grab the outer end of the drive head, and try to pull up and down. shouldn't move much. try same on each arm and bearing. Check the bushing clamp for tightness when you install the bushing into the clamp...
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 4:30pm |
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DiyDave
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 5:39pm |
When you assemble it, wear guards, teeth and hold down clamps, you will need to adjust it. Slide wear guards forward enough, to take most of the fore and aft slop out, and you can slip the sickle through. Next you need to adjust the hold downs, a government post card can be used as a feeler gauge. Once its assembled, you should be able to move it by hand, back and forth along the length of the stroke. Use a stick, you only have 10 fingers... 
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 5:50pm |
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Ok, so a warped lower main bar isnt that big of a deal
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 6:26pm |
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Cutter bar is missing a bolt and the wrong nut on the on the other one I can see.Those nuts need to be a tapered lug nut type nut
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 6:30pm |
A cut bar with that much of a bow is a big deal. Like Dave says you need to be able to move the knife bar back and forth without much resistance. A bend of that magnitude is going to definitely impact on free movement of the knife bar. Unfortunately, A-C chose to make the cut bars on the early 80 series mowers only 5/8" thick. The later 80 series and 82 series mowers have a 3/4" thick bar which pretty much cured the "rainbow" problem. Until I changed the bar on my early 82S mower from 5/8" to 3/4" I would regularly block up my bar and run my old WD wheel over it to straighten it out. Lifting the bar with a heavy load of hay out on the end will surely contribute to the bending of the cut bar. A #7 mower (the first "twin-wheel" mower) I bought for parts had pieces of 1/2" pipe welded on the back of the cut bar in an attempt to prevent the "rainbow"......it did not work all that well!
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 10:54pm |
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Ok thanks for the tip!
I'll use my narrow front CA and a block o wood to straighten her out😉
Need to get this fixed up to get second cutting on our 4acre field in next couple weeks
I'm planning on new cutter teeth, spring assist hold downs, dual head cutter guides and a quick tractor/ block tune up on the bowed bar and hopefully cutting like a champ again by next weekend!
Will update...
Thanks Matt
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 4:31am |
Don't forget the wear guides...
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 4:20pm |
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I tried using my CA to straighten the bar out which I think it did help a slight bit but still not by any means straight...
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 5:26am |
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Takes a long time to bend back a cutter bar,weight set on it over Winter works the the best.try to bend it too far too quick it'll snap like a candy cane.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 5:39am |
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Well it did seam like it was springing back after I pulled CA off it each time but alittle bit straightened...
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Ray
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 5:07pm |
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Drive a tractor over the sickle bar on Allis mower to take the bend out. How Ridiculous!!
If bar is not straight you will break sickles,knock out bearing, and bend arms.
Them are fine mower. Still the best out there. They do need to be in shape. We have a truck load of mower parts. PS A 7ft. straight bar 3/4in costs
$75.00. Used. Thanks 785-353-2392
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 5:11pm |
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Okay thanks for the info on the used bar but I removed everything before I drove on it so it was just the straight stock piece of steel when I drove on it no teeth guards or anything play pony.
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 9:05pm |
 Ray wrote:
Drive a tractor over the sickle bar on Allis mower to take the bend out. How Ridiculous!!
If bar is not straight you will break sickles,knock out bearing, and bend arms.
Them are fine mower. Still the best out there. They do need to be in shape. We have a truck load of mower parts. PS A 7ft. straight bar 3/4in costs
$75.00. Used. Thanks 785-353-2392 |
How much do you really know about the "Twin Wheel" mowers? It will cost a lot more than the cost of the bar to try to adapt a 3/4" bar to a mower with a 5/8" bar....a lot more! Many things have to be changed besides the cut bar!! B T D T!! I assume you want to sell that 3/4" bar.....do you have all the other associated pieces as well? How much for them?
Edited by Brian G. NY - 23 Aug 2019 at 9:07pm
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 8:10am |
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We used to straighten things at the shop all the time, using the BIG planer table and a porta-power jack. If you bend things a little past straight and they continue to spring back, it helps to use a ball peen hammer to "stress relieve" the unwanted bow. You don't want to hit it had enough to move metal where the hammer hits, but multiple impacts will help.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 9:00am |
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I planned on taking it into my shop but last of 4 bolts won't come out so straighten ing had to be improvised... thanks Matt
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