Gleaner Hugger question

Stripper plates will get worn and will not pull stalks thru which will cause poor feeding. If the rod is in need of repair then probably the row plates will need to be replaced. I have seen the row spirals worn so bad that they were nearly smooth . Looks like time for a rebuild job on the head.

old farmer wrote: Stripper plates will get worn and will not pull stalks thru which will cause poor feeding. If the rod is in need of repair then probably the row plates will need to be replaced. I have seen the row spirals worn so bad that they were nearly smooth . Looks like time for a rebuild job on the head.

interesting.... I never heard of worn stripper plates causing the stalk to be pushed, improproper adjustment yes but not wear in that area causing this problem. I do have the head up to the shop and sheet metal removed and assessing what needs to be rebuilt. Plates are on the list and I already have new rod to weld in. The plates themselves don't seem to be too thin so I'll just remove the old rod and weld in new. The upper sprockets will get replaced and I'm pretty sure the spirals will too. The flutes I'm still assessing but am lean towards reversing them as they have never been reversed and I'm thinking about the Gleaner service bulletin mod where you cut away about 4" on two opposing flutes on each roll. Three gear boxes are weeping oil around a seal or two so that's on the list too. The chains are rusted from sitting but I don't think they have many acres on them. Guides, I have not look at yet.

Now when I look at the new flutes.... or knives in the pic, my flutes are slightly slanted back on the front edge. They are not straight like they should be. I'll either try welding them up or replace. Over $1000 for new flutes for a 6 row from AGCO or less than $700 from Shoup. Are Shoup any good?

Anyone ever build up the spirals with weld? If so what type of rod would you use on these? I expect if I do that that I'll do the final welding with hard surface rod.

I build up my spirals with cor-met 9236 mcg wire.  They need to be as high as the flute on the roll, but make sure you build them up towards the front as well because a couple I did not and I went back as I could tell when I ran the head they weren't grabbing stalks like they should  I got C Trimpe Inc flutes built up with tungsten carbide.  They show so little wear after the last 7 years I can't believe it.  I did my 8 row building up and removing the spirals easy in an afternoon.  If the spiral pin seems to not want to start to move then stop, drive it the opposite way, that is the only note I made in my repair book from that job.

The tungsten carbide goes on with oxy/acc torch usually.  Yeah those spirals are not cheap are they.  Good luck with it.