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bleeds orange 
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2012
Location: mt. vision, ny
Points: 692
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 Topic: 7010 changing outer tie rod. Rh side
Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 9:19pm |
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Cant seem to get old tie rod out, this is the 21" long one. Right now I have one end chained to a dozer and other end chained to a truck heating it to cherry red and it won't budge. I thought about cutting two relief cuts in the caseing that the tie rod slides into to help break lose. Any help much appreciated.
Thanks cory.
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8617
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 9:32pm |
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Remove whole thing and beat on sides while laying flat on hard surface. Work all around and full length. If you get carried away, your pounding will stretch outer tube to larger than you may want.
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Joe(TX)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Weatherford. TX
Points: 1682
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 8:36am |
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Lots of PD Blaster, patience and some heat. You might try twisting it using a couple of pipe wrenches or a pipe vise.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Dave974
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Joined: 18 Aug 2017
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Points: 77
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 10:42am |
+1 for Blaster and twisting Another thing to try might be standing the whole assembly on end and soaking it with PB Blaster or whatever you're using. That way, it'll run down into the gap between the tie rod end and the outer pipe. Let it soak, then repeat.
After several rounds of soaking, twisting in opposite directions with a couple of large pipe wrenches has worked for me in the past
When reassembling, some anti-seize should prevent it from freezing up again. |
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Tbone95
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Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
Points: 12162
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 10:47am |
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I wanted to adjust the stance of the front tires on mine.......I ended up giving up on one side. I had the whole thing cherry red, submersed it while hot in a barrel of oil, let it sit for and hour. Repeated 3 times. Beat on it with an air hammer. Never budged at all.
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
Location: ia
Points: 3911
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 12:22pm |
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Have you swore at it yet? That's what finally got it loose for me.
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chaskaduo
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Joined: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Twin Cities
Points: 5200
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 2:13pm |
Yes swearing at things seems to alleviate some of the frustration. Just got done swearing in the plumbing parts for the 1930's 1&1/4" claw tub drain cobbled into a 1914 farmhouse that I live in. From the tub into the wall, all the twisty turning parts were a pain to find. Got her done all in brass. The lead piping from the main drain stack up into the floor and inside walls ? for the tub and sink is another battle another day. $*#T D*^n H#!! 
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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BrianC
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Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Location: New York
Points: 1619
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Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 6:06pm |
Heating it is the big gun. But it didn't work. Darn, heat and torquing always works.
Is there any chance someone welded it or pinned it, now mechanically locked? Before you go too medieval on it, check for availability of replacements...
In addition to all you have tried, I might soak it in Evapo-Rust for a week. That could dissolve the rust away, if it can get in there. Has to be clean of oils.
Is this a "normal design" tie rod- hollow tube necked down at the end, this shorter area is the only contact area?
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Ed (Ont)
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Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1488
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Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 7:39pm |
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Never use heat on tie rod bar. You will ruin threads and the whole thing. Take complete assembly off. Lay on big anvil or nice flat surface. Use big hammer and work it all around good. Helps to have two people so one can hold it and rotate constantly. Once it starts to turn then you can add some spray lube. It will come apart!!
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21866
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Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 8:07pm |
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Take a 3 inch cutting disc on a grinder and make a lengthwise slice on the underside of the large tube. Cut it clear thru until you hit the tie rod and probably a foot or more in from the tubes end. Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering arm and place it on a safety stand. Get a 4 ft long pipe wrench and begin to twist it one way (pushing down on the pipe wrench) while adding penetrating oil. All the heating you've done (cherry red ?) has made it tighter than it was before. When you get done, you can weld the slice back together if you like, but tight bolts seem to hold it just fine.
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