Gleaner F2 pivot shaft roll pin removal?

I need to take the feeder house off of two F2 combines.
The biggest issue is that 1/4" roll pin on the right hand side of the pivot shaft that locks the flange and shaft together.
How do you remove it?
You can't just punch the pin out the other side because it will just hit the frame after about a half inch of travel.
It's some of the worst engineering I've seen on the silver combines.
I have encountered this before on a F about 15 years ago but I used a drill and made a big mess out of it and good thing it was just a parts combine.

In previous reply, I forgot to mention unhooking throat lift cylinder pins from under front of throat. And, disconnect the tailings return elevator chute at its telescoping section.

Forklift does a good job of removing/reinstalling throat away from & back to machine, but if that's unavailable I guess you could secure the raised position throat in some kind of a permanent fixture, then back combine away from it??
If you do start & run combine engine, be sure not operate the reel lift & variable reel speed hydraulic lines that were unhooked. Also you will want to tie throat lift cylinders up off floor before moving combine.

Edited by AC7060IL - 03 Dec 2018 at 8:40pm

AC7060IL wrote: After removing both sides drive belts, electric sensor wires, unhook header hydraulic lines, sheave assemblies, I unbolted each side's 4 bolt pivot shaft eccentrics(flanges?) and using a forklift, lift the whole throat away from combine. Once the throat is out, pull the pivot shaft out the right side leaving its eccentric attached. Take the pivot shaft to the vise & hammer the tool pin out. Reverse the process to re-install.

Why am I thinking the left flange is welded to the shaft?
So the roll pin just prevents the shaft from turing in the machine when it's running?

Well I guess someone could have welded its left eccentric flange to pivot shaft?? But that's not how they were manufactured. Left side eccentric floats on pivot shaft. There is a snap ring on the left side. The drive belt sheave assembly's bearing washer snugs up to that snap ring.

On a parts machine that I need its pivot shaft only, I was able to prop throat up on wood blocks in front & use a hydraulic jack up under it's rear housing to relieve weight tension. Removed both sides drive belt sheave assemblies. Jacked up right side of machine's frame & supported frame to remove it's drive wheel. Unbolt both side eccentric's 4 bolt mounts, take off the left side snap ring off pivot shaft & with right side eccentric still roll pinned, pull the pivot shaft out the right side of machine. Might have to wiggle throat a little while pulling pivot shaft. Please note: Slide a heavy center punch into left side to keep things aligned before pulling pivot shaft entirely out of left side. Once good pivot shaft is removed from parts machine, carefully slide bad pivot shaft (one begin replaced) back into parts machine to keep throat on it.

While you're doing this job, check that the pivot shaft's throat housing 71114832 bushings (2, one on left & one on right) are good. If they have any wear play, replace them. AGCO still sell these bushings. FYI- these bushings have a full width slit in them to aid in their removal/installation. Usually this slit is in the 6pm location so it's grease zerk hole aligns with zerk. On either side of this slit, use a pointy scribe or pick to pry bushing up away from the housing allowing bushing to slide over /coil into itself then slide bushing out.