Insulating a Pole Bldg Ceiling-Moisture Present!

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Hey guys-I am getting ready to blow insulation into my pole building but the weather has caused moisture to get trapped between the plastic and the ceiling tin.
Should I wait for this moisture to be driven out (next spring) or would you blow in the insulation on top of the plastic and no problems will occur?

I am concerned that if I insulate now, this moisture may be "trapped" for a longer period of time and cause the ceiling tin to rust.

Thoughts??

Thanks in advance for the help,
Terry

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
nowaktj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Elk River, MN Points: 728	Post Options Post Reply Quote nowaktj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Insulating a Pole Bldg Ceiling-Moisture Present! Posted: 30 Nov 2018 at 5:06am
	Hey guys-I am getting ready to blow insulation into my pole building but the weather has caused moisture to get trapped between the plastic and the ceiling tin. Should I wait for this moisture to be driven out (next spring) or would you blow in the insulation on top of the plastic and no problems will occur? I am concerned that if I insulate now, this moisture may be "trapped" for a longer period of time and cause the ceiling tin to rust. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance for the help, Terry
	D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G

Sponsored Links

shameless dude Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607	Post Options Post Reply Quote shameless dude Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Nov 2018 at 7:21am
	the moisture should evap if it's between the plastic and the tin. even if it did stay in there, it wouldn't rust thru for 50 years or better. i'm thinking that's why you put the plastic in there in the first place was to keep moisture outta the inside of the building?

Dakota Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3969	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dakota Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Nov 2018 at 8:08am
	I blew insulation in mine last December when I took some panels back down to install the lights it was dry between the steel and the moisture barrier. As long as your heat source is outside vented it'll dry out. If your using a non vented heat you'll just be putting more moisture it the building. Edited by Dakota Dave - 30 Nov 2018 at 11:27am

AC7060IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3504	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC7060IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2018 at 2:09pm
	If I'm correctly imagining how your building is designed, outside air is always going to be between plastic & tin. If that's correct, then yes insulate from plastic toward inside of building. Like already said, the plastic is your vapor barrier from outside air(natural humidity & condensation from temp differences).

nowaktj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Elk River, MN Points: 728	Post Options Post Reply Quote nowaktj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2018 at 4:36pm
	Thanks guys. I think what happened is that I have the walls insulated without the floor being concreted. I think when it turn cold all the moisture in the building kind of got trapped in there. I am going to try and blow in insulation tomorrow morning. The middle of the week here I let it air out if we had lows near 10 Fahrenheit. That seem to suck some of that moist air out. I have also put in a ceiling fan so I should be able to get the air moving.
	D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G

Gary in da UP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EUP of Mi. Points: 1885	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary in da UP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2018 at 5:11pm
	UP north Steel roofing on new construction has a half inch of black celotex under it for insulation and vapor barrier, paper faced fiberglass R33 finish ceiling and then insulate further if you need it, can't have too much insulation @ zero and below Celotex directly under the steel is a must have if you want dry insulaion.

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3838	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2018 at 9:34pm
	we are going to spray 2" of closed cell foam in our roof then 2" of open cell. the closed cell will seal it up and pravide a vapor barrier also our heat is very dry

Dusty MI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5058	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dusty MI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Dec 2018 at 7:56am
	Last I knew the vapor barrier needs to be on the heated side. Heated air holds more moister than cold air.
	917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"

DMiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33503	Post Options Post Reply Quote DMiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Dec 2018 at 8:03am
	Not on steel. You want to keep the moisture/moist air away from that cold metal to prevent condensation. A couple of thoughts from around here. A insulator that foamed our home stated he sprays a open cell product directly to the underside of barn roofs. Two factors one the open cell allows the foam to breath while still keeping moist air off direct cold metal contact, two the open cell allows for drain-off of any roof leaks rather than strip the product off the bottom of the sheeting. I had simple house wrap laid across the trusses on our barn, did not fully stop condensation and dripping but is Nowhere near to as bad as a open under-skin roof at a neighbors.