Snap Coupler Plow Won't Go In the Ground

I'm having a frustrating time getting my 3-bottom snap coupler plow to go in the ground. I've moved the crank to adjust front to back all over the place, and that was no help. I'm using the same plow I plowed with last fall with the same WD-45 pulling it. Only difference is that I brought the right wheels in to do a better job on the first bottom. I have also played with the hydraulic pump settings - with screw A moved in and screw B moved out, and vice-versa. No help.

I sharpened the rolling cutters. No help.

The plow is a high suck plow with the bottoms having long noses that turn down slightly.

One time, the plow stayed in the ground and did well for about 8 feet, then it jumped out of the ground, so I'm sure it's an hydraulic issue.

Any help or suggestions or experiences you could share will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Terry

WD-45, WD, Unstyled WC, SC Disk, JD 4430D, JD 4010D, JD B, Iowa pastor & disciple of Jesus Christ

Did you adjust the plow? I place the left rear tire on a 6-8" block and theen level the plow. Then I tilt it down so that the nose of the leading share is about 2-3" lower than the back of the share. Finally, the plow arms that attach to the lift arms should be "upside down" such that the pivot is under the shaft (I forgot this on a plow that worked great earlier and after a lot of messing around, I remembered and readjusted the plow and it worked great). The hyd adjustment is for the traction booster/hold and should be adjuster after you get the plow to work right.

What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
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Could be a broken Draft spring under the tractor. So the slightest pull causes the Traction booster to raise the plow? Or the adjustment of the linkage that goes to the pump?

Also, make note of how the lower links look, in the pics. This is correct, but if they are turned around 180º, the plow just flops around... Wink

DiyDave

X-2

Dusty

Edited by Dusty MI - 10 Nov 2017 at 7:50am

917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"

be sure your hydro pump is set to traction booster and as you plow your trac tion booster gauge should be to the right of center and your hydro lever sets that

Edited by polarbear - 10 Nov 2017 at 4:51pm

littlemarv wrote:

I put both front and rear tires up on blocks, you want the tractor to be sitting exactly as it will be in the furrow.

Adjust so the plow it level front to back, and adjust so the landside is square to the ground.

Took it for a spin, didn't have to make any adjustments, plowed pretty good.

I know I'm late to the show here ... but this literary saved me hours of tinkering around with my plow.

Just wanted to say thanks !

WD , CA

I always liked that first pass to be shallow. It helps keep from ridging so badly.

Sandy ground will help to scour the entire plow bottom

MACK's suggestion in this thread helped me the most. I took out some of those shims and my plow went in the ground. Be sure to try that one. And of course the soil will polish your bottoms.

Terry

WD-45, WD, Unstyled WC, SC Disk, JD 4430D, JD 4010D, JD B, Iowa pastor & disciple of Jesus Christ

So, in reality, you had a Traction Booster/Hydraulic pump problem not letting the plow go in the ground.....not a plow issue.

GregLawlerMinn wrote:

Did you adjust the plow? I place the left rear tire on a 6-8" block and theen level the plow. Then I tilt it down so that the nose of the leading share is about 2-3" lower than the back of the share. Finally, the plow arms that attach to the lift arms should be "upside down" such that the pivot is under the shaft (I forgot this on a plow that worked great earlier and after a lot of messing around, I remembered and readjusted the plow and it worked great). The hyd adjustment is for the traction booster/hold and should be adjuster after you get the plow to work right.

Anal that I am, confused is the result..."could you elaborate on what you mean the lift arms should be upside down such that the pivot is under the shaft"?? And perhaps this question of mind is related, but when you lower the plow when on blocks as pictured, should not the tractor hydraulics lift/lower be at the end of their drop? In other words, if the plow was over a big hole instead of the concrete pad, would the plow be go lower if the hydraulic was all the way down? If so, is that relevant?

If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!

Better described as "lifting links". The lift arms on the tractor cannot be lowered to the bottom for normal plowing depth because the ground rolls up and down. There would be times the plow wouldn't be in the ground if the front tires of the tractor went over a small hill.

Edited by DrAllis - 24 Apr 2019 at 9:07am

The beginning of Traction Booster with pull-type implements was the twisted chain and pulley on the tongue of early model 12 ft 200 series discs on a WD45. It worked, but you had to have the rear wheels set clear wide and they didn't turn very short as the disc was very close to the tractor. Then, they went with the Traction Booster "drawbar", which left the disc at a normal distance behind the tractor and allowed short turning. When 3-point hitches came out on the D19's I don't think they had created a Traction Booster drawbar yet, but by the 190XT's they definitely had a Traction Booster drawbar for a 3-point hitch. By the time the 7030-7050 came out the Traction Booster drawbar was discontinued to my knowledge.

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