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Tbone95 
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 Topic: Left-side-on-blocks-trick
Posted: 26 May 2017 at 6:57am |
Many times it's been mentioned on here when setting up a plow, you can get close to level by putting the left side tractor wheels on block = to the depth you want to plow. Just to clarify, when you do that, you want the plow level like without resting "freely" on the ground, right? Meaning, lower the plow maybe until the front moldboard almost touches the ground, but not bearing weight. Because if you go ahead and lower it until is resting, it's going to lean one way or another. (in my case, left) Correct?
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:06am |
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Probably not going to be the same in "relax" as in real time use,as you say, but certainly gets it close for final tuning in real world.
You can't set any tool static.You have to see how it's performing and tweak.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 26 May 2017 at 7:09am
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Tbone95
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:18am |
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See how it's performing and tweak....yes, of course...But yes or no to my question: level it without it resting?
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:30am |
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I don't think it matters in the end you have to field test it and fine tune.Set it relaxed and give it a try. Never seen one pull through the field like it trials down the road.I don't think its possible to get proper adjusting in the shop.Get it close then go pay attention to what it's doin right or wrong in the field.Adjust accordingly.Back when we plowed,it took different setting in clover than cornstalks to make it right.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:44am |
Well, OK then. I guess my question is, for the guys that do this trick, which way do they do it. It matters a lot it seems. Raised, the plow is 3 inches in 2 feet low to the right. When you lower it, the right side is going to touch first, duh! Then if you keep lowering, it almost levels out because you're parked on relatively level ground (could park in my bunker for almost perfect) As for how it's doing, it's doing horrible. See my post a ways down titled "Plow Adjustment"
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:48am |
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Reading your adjustment post made me think it could be a big help to have the factory manual for the plow your working with.Where your hitch is located can effect how it "drafts".Just because the hitch has always been "here" doesn't mean it was put in the right spot initially.Manuals usually tell how to correct what's going wrong. The school of hard knocks will get you there,it just takes longer.
Worn shares,land sides and coulter location can have great effects on how it works.Your tail wheel will not correct plow draft.
The frame needs to be level side to side and front to back when going through the field.Leanig sideways either way pulls hard.Keep adjusting and analizeing.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 26 May 2017 at 8:00am
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:56am |
We adjusted the plow On my C back in the 70's drove the left rear tire and front tires up on 6x6s dropped the plow on the ground and loostened the ajdust ments when it sat level just tightened it back up. it still plows well and it hasent been touched since. this is the third C its been on without being changed.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:56am |
A manual would be wonderful! Even if I had one for one of the other models that I could get some similar sounding information. Now if only I knew the model number! Having a heck of a time putting the right info together. I posted on here pictures of it to see if anyone knew. A guy in OH thought he knew, and gave me a link. I go to the link, several times, and the page of the manual that shows a picture of the overall unit won't display. Every time. Took the same pictures to my closest blue dealer, counter guy said he has no clue. I had some numbers I could read on some aftermarket iron....counter guy says that seems like a different model number than the guy in OH, but it "doesn't matter, they're all about the same".
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Tbone95
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:57am |
 Dakota Dave wrote:
We adjusted the plow On my C back in the 70's drove the left rear tire and front tires up on 6x6s dropped the plow on the ground and loostened the ajdust ments when it sat level just tightened it back up. it still plows well and it hasent been touched since. this is the third C its been on without being changed.
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Full 3 pt. mount, right? Or SC, but still a top link?
Edited by Tbone95 - 26 May 2017 at 7:58am
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DanWi
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 7:58am |
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Yes start by setting it with the plow just touching toe ground because some of the old worn out linkages may allow the plow to level itself, but when you get it in the field you will have to check and make adjustments because depending on the conditions of your soil and your plow bottom/ shares it will affect how the plow sucks into the ground and if it pulls straight and you have to set it so the front and back bottom are running at the same depth.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 8:12am |
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C plow is wounted. I went back and read your plow adjustment post and realized your using a semi mounted plow and having trouble with it sucking to the left. if its sucking to the left I believe youll need to move your draft line to the right. I dont know ianything about your modle plow but on my WD 45 snap coupler plow it plowed realy bad until I repaired the landslide. I welded steel to it it was worn down so much it looked like a toothpick. I just guessed at the dimensions looking at the pictures in the manual and it worked.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 9:45am |
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AC offered landsides in about three lengths, and used them on all plow bottoms. Generally the longest were on the rear bottom and shorter on the other bottoms on the plow frame. Not a complex or curved part so welding on parts should work well.
Gerald J.
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 27 May 2017 at 2:06am |
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With the tractor on blocks the plow should lay flat on the ground. This would be the same as if it were in the furrow. This will allow the left plow to go in as deep as the right one. Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 27 May 2017 at 8:13am |
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I always set the plow on the ground.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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Tbone95
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Posted: 05 Jun 2017 at 6:41am |
Just to show I "can do a decent job", this is from yesterday. (yeah, still behind the 8-ball) The sod to the left in the picture is the back furrow, not turned over super great. I'm on about the 3rd or 4th pass in that direction, and if you look straight behind, it's rolled over pretty well. This is the JD plow btw.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 05 Jun 2017 at 7:07am |
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That looks like my garden when I lived in upper Michigan. A little bit of top soil with sand underneath, if I dug to deep it just pulled the sand up. The garden grows much better up here in ND. I dig down 5 feet and still have black soil.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 05 Jun 2017 at 7:26am |
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This field, in this area of the field, yes. This whole field is about 22 acres, and there are at least 4 distinctive types of soil in it. By the time you get to the north end, there's the hardest ( or stickiest) clay imaginable, and loam off to the east, then almost muck to the northeast.
This definitely ain't one of my better fields.
Edited by Tbone95 - 05 Jun 2017 at 7:27am
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