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Allis chalmers wont hand crank help |
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Blazemup17
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Joined: 11 May 2017 Location: Indianapolis Points: 14 |
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Topic: Allis chalmers wont hand crank helpPosted: 11 May 2017 at 3:35pm |
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I recently got an Allis-Chalmers model B was told the motor was built 4 years ago ran two years ago but sat for 2 years I'm new to this type of tractor and I need some help is there any way to basically unlock the motor where the hand crank is the only numbers I see looks like b9610 buy the gear shifter if that helps at all
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Blazemup17
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Joined: 11 May 2017 Location: Indianapolis Points: 14 |
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 3:42pm |
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 3:50pm |
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You can try putting it in 3rd gear and gently rocking the tractor by hand and seeing if the motor will break free. If that doesn't do it you can remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with ATF and other solvents and let it stand for a few days and see if you can rock the wheels and break it free. Otherwise you're going to have to remove the head and go from there.
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 4:06pm |
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Thank you ill try that
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 6:29pm |
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Pull the spark plugs water came out one guessing that's a bad thing I still put some ATF in it is that a waste of time or should I go ahead and pull the top end
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54756 |
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 6:43pm |
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If the exhaust wasn't covered, likely the water came in through the manifold, to the nearest open exhaust valve... Pull the valve cover, first, and see if you see any rust on any valves. If so, try soaking the rust with ATF/acetone mix, and rocking the tractor. You may have to pull the head, later, but give the mix a try at loosening things up...
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Blazemup17
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Joined: 11 May 2017 Location: Indianapolis Points: 14 |
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 6:51pm |
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I pulled the valve cover and it actually looks pretty clean on the inside so I was kind of curious if I should go further and take the head off just thinking maybe the piston and rings are seized up do you have any solutions on how to get the ATF downside the spark plug holes sorry to sound like a new person this is my first tractor and trying to troubleshoot it here the spark plugs are side-mounted and I was spraying lubricant and it was just basically kinda coming back out
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 9:17pm |
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Trying to force a stuck engine can lead to continued disasters. The piston rods are not strong enough to break rusted piston rings loose while pushing up and will bend when the engine is forced to turn with the transmission. Then the rod bearings and pistons will bind and break the rod and the remains of the broken rod often knock holes in the side of the block and/or oil pan.
Don't force it over!!! Gerald J. |
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 9:27pm |
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So what do you suggest should I take the head off and get down to the top of the piston
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LeonR2013
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Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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Posted: 11 May 2017 at 10:12pm |
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Here's an idea a friend of mine swears by. Get a long 4X4 and strap, wire, any way to attach it to the front pulley with room left for it to move down. Then hang at least one concrete block on the end. Two won't hurt. Blow as much of the water out of the cyl as you can then put plenty of rust breaker in each cyl. Go off and leave it. Check it once in a while May have leave it for a week or more but it usually doesn't take that long. Doesn't cost anything to try and at the same time it will loosen any stuck rings. Check to make sure it isn't anti-freeze that's gotten into it. Is it low on coolant? Check it to make sure. Let us know of any success or problems you run into and we'll try to help you. PMs work good.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54756 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 5:03am |
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Eventually you may have to take the head off, but if you are gentle, in your efforts, a lightly stuck motor will eventually move. Give the above methods a couple weeks, though...
To get penetrant into cyls, through spark plug holes, use a spray can, with the straw that comes with the can, or use one of these: Good penetrating oils for this include ATF/acetone mix, Kroil, PB blaster, nuts off, anything other than wd40 ...
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TimNearFortWorth
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Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 7:40am |
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After taking A CA back (sat 2-3 years at someone's shop, outside uncovered), did the ATF/acetone via spark plug holes. Tractor ran fine when left at that shop so thought I could maybe "soak" it and free it up. Had it in a corner of my shop and not in a rush, tried to rock it occasionally and eventually filled it full on each cylinder and let it set for months. Pulled the plug on pan and added the mix to each cylinder separately and monitored what I got out of the pan. Found the one cylinder that never let the mix by the rings so decided to pull the head. Cylinder wall had plenty of rust so glad I never forced it.
Head gasket is cheap, forcing it may do damage by just breaking the rings or worse, bending a rod. Pull the head, you'll be glad you did . . . . . |
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3141 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 7:48am |
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I'm in with the pull the head off camp,with that much water in the cylinder for that long you'll need to check out everything including the valve stems to make sure they're not rusted bad.
A broken/dropped valve will definitely ruin your day. |
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5093 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 3:10pm |
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Unless you can find someone with exray vision the only way to know what your working with is to remove the head. Setting two years and water found in a spark hole means that all the magic soup in the world will not give you a good engine. The head will come one time or another. I bought several out in the weather stuck engine tractors and would remove the head after getting them home before going to bed that night. Most of the time this is what I have found most of the time when removing the head on a stuck engine. I cleaned the rust off the top to show the pits under the rust that would be there even if you removed the rust with some magic tonic. Edited by Dick L - 12 May 2017 at 3:14pm |
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CrestonM
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8461 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 4:36pm |
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A buddy used to have a B that was stuck. He was getting it running for a friend. He tried everything, and nothing would break it free. He pulled the head and saw it was #3 piston that was stuck. It put a wood block on top of it and whacked it real good with a sledge hammer. Broke free right away. He cleaned up some of the pitting in the sleeve, put it back together, and it runs like a sewing machine! Doesn't burn oil, no blowby, no smoke ever.
You might try that, if all else fails. Or if your sleeve is pitted like in Dick's photo, a new sleeve, piston, and ring kit for just 1 cylinder should be easily obtained (Or they are for Fords, at least)
Edited by CrestonM - 12 May 2017 at 4:37pm |
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8768 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 5:32pm |
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Better safe than sorry...I'd pull the head if it was mine.If what you find is minimal,you can do a lot better job of cleaning with the head off.Head gaskets don't cost that much.
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bradley6874
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 5:54pm |
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If you do pull the head before you try to turn anything put a bolt with a washer back in to hold the sleeve down otherwise you'll break the seal on the bottom of the sleeve If It Moves at all it may just push the sleeve up instead of pushing the Piston up
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 6:45pm |
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So far I pulled the head and drain everything out of the bottom definitely had a lot of water in it but surprisingly not everything seems super rusted right now I did the mix 50/50 also put some Marvel Mystery Oil in with it I have two bricks sitting on the hand crank cinder blocks if I may now the cylinders were completely full and they have went down about a half an inch of fluid not sure if the acetone is evaporating or is actually working my next thing is take off the pan and make sure the crankshaft is not rusted
Edited by Blazemup17 - 12 May 2017 at 6:51pm |
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 6:45pm |
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Trying to upload pictures but all the picture sizes are too big anyone have no way to resize them smaller besides crop
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54756 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 7:02pm |
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For the record, MMO IS ATF, you just paid more for it...
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 7:52pm |
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You can resize the pictures when uploading them. Set the width to 640 and the height to 480 in that command window for uploading.
Gerald J. |
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 12 May 2017 at 8:11pm |
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Just try to upload the pictures had to resize them what you do see is probably in my opinion the worst of everything from what I can see are the crankshaft doesn't look rusted just dirty so I'm hoping this engine the salvageable without a rebuild
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 13 May 2017 at 11:16am |
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Does anyone know how the parts work like gasket kits do all model B have the same gaskets
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22825 |
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Posted: 13 May 2017 at 7:54pm |
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1600 x 1200 vs. 800 x 600 Open the post reply box, click on the tree icon, click on the pic tag on the left and hit preview. Then change the width and height to something under 800 wide. You have to keep the same ratio between the width and height or the pic will be distorted. Go to the bottom of the file manager and click OK then post your reply. Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 13 May 2017 at 7:55pm |
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Blazemup17
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Posted: 06 Aug 2017 at 5:31pm |
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So finally got the motor unseized now I have it all reassembled won't start put new plugs in it obviously new oil oil filter didn't do the wires are Magneto how do I check for the spark does have plenty of gas coming to carburetor
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 06 Aug 2017 at 11:40pm |
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Is the gas getting through the carb? Recheck your wiring and see if they're in the right order, going in the correct direction. Give it a small shot of starting fluid. Not too much now or you'll be doing another head gasket. Check compression, and for sure check the valve adjustment. I believe I'd leave the valve cover off so I could check and make sure oil is getting to all rockers. Any valves stuck, or push rods bent? Obviously there's something I've forgotten and left out and that's what it will be. LOL Check back when you can and let us know how it is going. There are enough good mechanics on here that can't resist a challenge.
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Tater
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Joined: 28 Jul 2017 Location: Cainsville, MO Points: 10 |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2017 at 11:24pm |
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A trick I have used is to pull the valve cover off. Remove the rocker arms and pull the head. Look for the stuck piston. If it is not at bottom dead center or close to it then I pour this cylinder full of hydraulic oil. Next, I put the head back on. I made a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole and screw my Porta-Power hose to the other end. I then use my hand operated Porta Power to apply pressure to the cylinder. I have broken loose some seriously stuck engines using this trick. By doing this you apply even force across the piston face and do not place undue force on the connecting rods. If the piston of concern is at BDC then I swing the engine on a stand, remove the crank, and drive the piston on out with a block of wood. Never have I found a seriously stuck engine with water in it that did not have putts in the liner. If they won't gone out, I replace the liner and piston assembly on the affected cylinder at a minimum. Most of the time, I'll overhaul the engine if I am at this point.
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