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New engine breakin/idling |
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3072 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 10:58am |
New engine break in has been discussed on here several times before, but I have a specific question.
I'm overthinking this, but I know you should let the engine warm up and cool down good, especially on the old diesels. I also hear that no prolonged idling periods for new engines. How are you supposed to warm up and cool down without idling?? Or are they more meaning, don't let the fresh engine sit and idle for hours and not talking about just 5-10 minutes or so. Here was a good break in topic from a couple years ago. http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=113470&title=breaking-in-an-engine Edited by Allis dave - 07 Apr 2017 at 11:02am |
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Acdiesel ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Location: Rochester Ohio Points: 2578 |
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10 to 15 minutes o.k.
long idling for any diesel is not good. wastes fuel, adds wear/hours, will lead to carbon build up. on the engines that have DEF system it will cause more regens of the filter. dan
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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8648 |
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to me,warm up would be fast idle (7-900rpm) til thermostat opens then go to work.Cool down is in reference to an engine that has been loaded (plowing say).Again a fast idle cool down would be appropriate.Will let all parts reach a more or less equal temp and then go to idle and shut down.If not been under load (cruising down road at full throttle) then nothing to cool.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22021 |
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Dead idle (400 RPM) for at least 60 seconds before shut down when hot. Upon starting, up speed to 1,000 RPM or so for warming up and no heavy loads for 3 to 5 minutes depending on ambient temps. Multi-Viscosity oils are great for start-ups/warm ups.
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Bill_MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1471 |
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No prolonged idling basically means...don't just run the engine for the sake of running it. A new engine should be warmed up for a minute or two, then worked under varying loads, without pushing it too much for the first 50 hour oil change. As stated, when it has been under load it should cool down at low idle for a couple more minutes before shutting down.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3072 |
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Thanks guys, pretty much confirmed what I was thinking.
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wayneIA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: Waverly, IA Points: 268 |
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On the newer engines, like what ACdiesel already said, the emissions aren't designed for idling and will cause issues. Some of what has happened on all newer engines (gas or diesel) is that the water jackets are made thinner and contain less coolant. Thus by having the fewer gallons of coolant around the cylinders and cylinder head to heat, the new engines warm up a lot faster.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I always told customer start out one gear lower until temp. Is up, then put it to work like you intend it to work. Hammer down. MACK
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Dipstick In ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Remington, In. Points: 8602 |
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I agree with Mack,,,,, I've broken in several engines and I was always told to warm them up under partial load (say a gear lower) then just start working them, being careful NOT TO DOG them or LUG THEM under normal rpm's!
Never had any problems that weren't caused by this method!
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You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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LaJaMe ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2014 Location: wisconsin Points: 172 |
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Don't have any personal experiences with new engines, but growing up with my father (an ac dealer) Whenthe engine was back in the tractor, he would put a little new oil in the top of the cylinder pull the coil wire and have me pull him down the street turning the engine over. Then he would put the coil wire on and i would pull him till it started. After getting it warmed up, he would readjust the valves. Never had an engine come back. This was back in the 50s and early 60s.
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