About mounting a blade on a B

I was going to chime in on another thread about a snow plow mounted on a B, but decided that was just rude.

I'd like to put a snow blade....or any kind of blade......on my B eventually. Looking over the various mounting holes, etc. I discovered that I have no holes in the "wings" of the front engine plate! From pics I've looked at, 99% of front mounted equipment require those holes.

Do I have what amounts to a factory "mistake" or was there a reason no holes were drilled in that plate?

I have a B with a V-plow on it,---and it uses a hand lift that also raises the woods mower.

Not sure if my B's (2) have the holes or not.----would have to look in the daytime!  thanks; ac fleet

Thanks for the replies everyone. It's good to know that there are other "unholy" B's out there!

From searching the internet, the methods of attaching/lifting a blade seem to only limited by the builder. For a snow blade, most seem to rely on a simple steel frame bolted around the radiator. A small cylinder lifts an arm (similar to an engine crane) which in turn lifts a short chain and the blade. I believe a couple of pivoted arms also go back to the threaded holes near the bell housing, to add strength. Angling the blade is done manually. I'm not all that crazy about the appearance, but it is simple enough.

In my case, since there aren't any holes "up front", I'll either have to come up with another mounting idea or take everything apart again in order to drill two holes......NOT an option!  I might build two long arms....all the way back to the rear axle....and two small cylinders mounted at the bell housing holes and lift it that way. Kind of like a standard bucket on a back hoe. Might be a little stronger that way too, since any pushing force is transferred to the rear axle.

All of this is in the future, after I finish the tin work. I forgot to mention that my B is a 1941 per the serial number.


Edited by George Andreasen - 04 Feb 2017 at 8:09am

My B also did not have holes in the pivot plate, however, like Dick L said, I just drilled the holes in place and it worked fine.  I drilled the holes so I could put on side engine weights to help counter balance the 3 point hitch and rear blade.  I use the to plow my snow and it's been working great.  I have found a Henderson loader that I am going to put on which should help with the snow clearing as well, though the 3 point hitch interferes with the PTO pump!  I'll have to figure something out.

I have a camper trailer axle replacement project in very slow works that is going to take holes for 5/8" bolts drilled through a couple sheets of quarter inch steel while I'm laying on the ground. I have worked out and tested a scheme that keeps me from handling the torque kick back from the drilling driver.

I have purchased an Irwin step with with steps more than a quarter inch long with a 1/4" hex shank. It goes up to 1/2" diameter. I plan to drive it with a battery impact driver/drill, a De Walt DCF815. Then for finishing the holes I have a 21/32" 135 degree split point bit that doesn't need a pilot but also doesn't seem to grab so much when breaking through. I bought it from McMaster-Carr about 12 years ago to make some adapter plates to mount 12.4-42 tires and rims on my 4020 in place of 18.4-34 for better row clearance while spraying.

To drive the 21/32" drill I have made an adapter to mount a drill chuck on a 1/2" air impact wrench. The adapter started out with a geared drill chuck with 1/2-20 mounting threads. The bit has a half inch shank. I found a 1/2" bolt to fit the chuck and stick out more than an inch and a nut. I used the nut to lock the bolt in the threads of the chuck a quarter turn or so before the bolt bottomed out in the back of the chuck and with the flats of the nut and bolt aligned. Then I found a 3/4" deep impact socket that holds both the bolt head and the nut. Drive it with the 1/2" square drive air impact wrench.

Using the impact driver and wrench I don't have to hold the torque, the impact mechanism takes care of that. I just have to hold the aiming to go perpendicular to the metal surfaces. I have tested the scheme on one hole in scrap 1/4" steel it worked smoothly though rattley without torque kick and fairly fast.

Next I have to get ambitious and do that to the axle mount and the axle plates under the camper. I may have to enlarge the notches on the plates of the camper to clear the welds on the new axle and that is slowing me down. Probably a project for the Sawzall and clean up with an abrasive drum driven by my air driven die grinder.

Gerald J.

Bill Long wrote: The Myers Snow Plows we sold had a front mounted lift arrangement that was basically a base for pulleys and bracket for the blade.  It was attached to the two holes to the back and below the radiator mounting plate.   From the bracket for the blade two long solid angle iron pieces attached to the drawbar to push the blade.  Also, a pulley or pulleys were mounted on the drawbar and directed a lift cable which was attached to the lift arm in the rear, through the pulley or pulleys in the lift bracket, and finally to the blade lift arrangement.  Worked fine. Good Luck! Bill Long ps: Sorry I do not have pictures to show.  It is tough thing to describe with words

There was a guy in the classifieds selling a plow that sounds a lot like what Mr Long is describing.  Might be worth a look.  http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=127214&KW=&title=fs-snow-plow-for-b

I think he is upstate NY


Edited by DanC911 - 05 Feb 2017 at 5:27pm