so what do I do to correct this

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I'm looking to straighten up a my 7040 and 50. As you can see in the pictures the front of the side panels stick out from the grill and then on the doors they also are not flush with the cab. The top of the door fits the way it should but as you get to the bottom they stick out a ways. Seems like all the 7000 series tractors around here are this way. I'm sure they didn't come new like this right? 

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grinder220 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Jan 2012 Location: Clinton Iowa Points: 2367	Post Options Post Reply Quote grinder220 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: so what do I do to correct this Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 7:12pm
	I'm looking to straighten up a my 7040 and 50. As you can see in the pictures the front of the side panels stick out from the grill and then on the doors they also are not flush with the cab. The top of the door fits the way it should but as you get to the bottom they stick out a ways. Seems like all the 7000 series tractors around here are this way. I'm sure they didn't come new like this right?

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Stan R Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 987	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stan R Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 7:32pm
	why not accept it and use something like this to pull in where you have a gap?: d-ring Edited by Stan R - 14 Jan 2017 at 7:33pm

SteveM C/IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8547	Post Options Post Reply Quote SteveM C/IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 8:02pm
	stratigic bending?

Michael V (NM) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2455	Post Options Post Reply Quote Michael V (NM) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 9:36pm
	I don't know what to do with the side hoods,, I would also like to know.,,,the doors, try putting a block at the top, then try pushing in at the bottom to try and 're-spring' the door... or as Steve calls it, strategic bending...My 7060 door fits really good,,its an early model,,, jus like your's

LB0442 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2014 Location: Boise ID Points: 767	Post Options Post Reply Quote LB0442 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 10:00pm
	The door is just the opposite of the ones I've had. Usually the top is sprung out due to the ball/spring assembly too stiff and getting hard to shut the door. That lower hinge on the door is slightly adjustable, the allen head counter sunk screws go into plate on the cab frame that can be moved around. If you take all 3 out the plate will just fall out below the fender. Just try to loosen them and push it in slightly, possible elongate the holes if needed. On the side panels it is a combination of the top has been bent up(where the tabs go into the center section) and people pulling on them to get them off over the years. The side panel must have the rubber bumpers on top of the center panel for them to sit on to get a correct height. Make sure the tabs are not bent away from the sides, should go straight in the center section. The ones that I have done that look the best I have had to recurve that top section, then straighten out the front. I use a long block of wood I have cut a radius in then work top part down. Ive done a little body work and its hard to explain. This is just what has worked for me. Or you can lower the front anchor for the panel and it might pull it a little straighter? It has quite a bit of adjustment to it. Course then it would make that front clip really tight.

LB0442 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2014 Location: Boise ID Points: 767	Post Options Post Reply Quote LB0442 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 10:05pm
	This is the auveco number for the rubber bumpers, box of 25. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/searchresults.asp?Search=13967 This is the exact copy of the original and waaay cheaper than agco.

LB0442 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2014 Location: Boise ID Points: 767	Post Options Post Reply Quote LB0442 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 10:21pm
	I know I get long winded but I forgot to mention. The allen head screws that are on the lower hinge probably haven't been out since new. You can get penetrating oil on the threads through the opening below the fender. Look for the plate and you can see the threads up there. Ya I've stripped a few of those heads.

grinder220 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Jan 2012 Location: Clinton Iowa Points: 2367	Post Options Post Reply Quote grinder220 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 7:52am
	Thanks for the tips Lon. I'll see what I can do starting with the door. I can live with the side panels if I have to for now but the gap at the bottom of the doors really needs addressed especially on the 7040,it has a half inch gap between the door and the seal. The link you posted for the bumpers just says category not found.

LB0442 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2014 Location: Boise ID Points: 767	Post Options Post Reply Quote LB0442 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 9:23am
	Since the link didn't work, the website is clipsandfasteners.com , part number 13967. 6 bucks for a box of 25, they are usually pretty reasonable on shipping.

LB0442 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2014 Location: Boise ID Points: 767	Post Options Post Reply Quote LB0442 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 12:04pm
	One thing to add. Whenever you have to adjust a panel that is latched, doors, hood, trunk lid, always remove the latch or striker and adjust it without pressure. Then after you get your panel gaps and depth adjusted where you want them, adjust the striker to that. That will save a lot of frustration fighting the latches and you will get a better feel opening and closing.

Lonn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lonn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 12:24pm
	I remember watching the guys at Crenlo reworking Cat cab doors that didn't quite fit right before being shipped to Peoria IL. With no windows in the door but door installed on cab, if the door was sprung out too far at the bottom like yours, they would put what looked like a 4 x 4 between the middle of the door and the cab frame and use a wooden maul to wail on the door at the bottom. Can't gve any details as I never worked at that station when I was there. I'm sure they were experienced and knew every trick. Could have been a large rubber maul. 3 foot long handle, nothing small. Of curse if they dented something they would send it to welding to fill in the dent with weld and then grind smooth.
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Ron(AB) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 959	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ron(AB) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 1:25pm
	RE: the door I first would make sure the hinges are straight / not bent. Sometimes they rust over winter (no one ever oils them) then they can stretch or bend when first using the tractor in spring. Maybe oil them a bit since your working on the door. Yours may be good… but I've seen some that have sat outside too long. My 7050 door works tight and my 7000 I'm unsure if it ever fit tight.