What's in your oil or what's not in there.

And you'll be replacing the catalytic converter in your car within a year.

Good point on the no zinc. I think alot of the 15-40 diesel oils still contain some zinc. (Rotella states 1300ppm). We use that type oil in all of our older motors, gas & diesel both.

Diesel oil can have zinc additive because the cam driven injectors need it. And diesel engines don't use catalytic converters.

Gerald J.

I've been told Shell Rotella 15-40 is the way to go.

Now hold on guys I'm not saying what to use for oil, I'm just saying look at what you have been using and read what's it now has in it. I have been seeing more flat cams and cupped lifter faces in old tractor engines then ever and some of them are so bad they will not regrind and most of the older cams are hard to get and the costs are out the roof if you do find a new one.  It's hard to tell the owner of a 30+ year old tractor to buy some of the high dollar oils out there to just sit in an engine not being used daily.
Oils have been changing over the last 5 years and look at the Shell Rotella, I have been using it for years and it's been good for me, now Rotella T is blended in 6 diff mixes (I not talking about the weight) I'm not picking on Rotella oil, I'm saying just look at what you pick-up at the store now it might not be the same oil you got last time you picked it up. The old saying "oil is oil it comes out of the ground" is not going to save your older engines now. It's not what blend or who's mane is on the can, it's what's inside. I have gone back to using 30# break-in oil for rebuilds and have always used "CAT" cam lube on cams lobs and lifter faces.
My cam re-builder said the zinc additive in a can will not mix in the oil so I'm not going that way now just using break-in oil for start-up and short run-in's and changing to a good oil that owners can find local. I'm not going to say what you need to use, I'm not in oil sales. So you make the call on what go's inside your engines. lol

Could not resist putting in my 2 cents.  Some years back, I had an argument with some one on what oil was good.  Should have never done that, but .  Don't know much about what is in the different oils, but I currently have 2 vehicles and others in  the past that have gone 200,000 miles with no oil related problems.  Currently change oil at 5 to 6,000 miles.  I have been using Penzoil for at about 50 years.  NO PROBLEMS.  Going to continue.

Fred in Pa wrote: If all else fails , READ the PRINT

That's like my wife telling me to stop for directions................... or me explaining to my wife which way East is on the map.


Edited by Lonn - 30 Dec 2016 at 6:37am

I think many miss the point. The argument is NOT what oil is good to put in your car that is 0- 20 years old.. ALL of the NEW OILS meet the NEW CAR SPEC.. Don't matter if you use Pennzoil, Mobil, or Wal Mart.. they are all GREAT for newer cars.

What DON is talking about is OLDER tractors and cars from the 1930- 1970 era.  The new oils are FAR SUPERIOR to older oils, EXCEPT for the zinc addative that was for cam shafts of the old design.  Many believe the newer oils without zinc are not a good idea for older motors. Personally I use Mobil 10-w30 in the older tractors and have no problem... BUT I only use them  50- 100 hours a year.  If I was farming with them or using  heavy loaded on a daily basis I might be more concerned. Right now, I am NOT.

eighty nine wrote: Good point on the no zinc. I think alot of the 15-40 diesel oils still contain some zinc. (Rotella states 1300ppm). We use that type oil in all of our older motors, gas & diesel both.

Which Rotella? Shell calls all their diesel grade oils "Rotella." They have several different API types. With Rotella you have to know what you are buying. He's an example of where you want to be SURE you are using the correct oil. Go to their web page. You do NOT want to use an earlier API Rotella in a 2017 or newer diesel. Pay special attention to the CK-4/FA-4 differences.

Okay, I am a tad confused here... Do I want zinz or not in my older tractor engine?

BenGiBoy wrote: Okay, I am a tad confused here... Do I want zinz or not in my older tractor engine?

Older flat tappet lifter engines need zinc.  Gas, LPG or Diesel.
Newer roller lifter engines do not need zinc.  Gas, LPG or Diesel.
I hope this helps.

ocharry wrote: another thing is most if not all synthetic oils dont have any or very little zink in them

Wrong. AMSOIL makes a type called Z-Max. It's a high quality pure synthetic oil that has zinc in it. It is marketed specifically for classic cars and racing. I'm sure other high end synthetic oil brands offer something similar. Just don't start getting the idea that this would be the greatest thing since sliced bread for your family car. Unless you enjoy driving with the check engine light on constantly after your converter goes south.

DougS wrote: ocharry wrote: another thing is most if not all synthetic oils dont have any or very little zink in them Wrong. AMSOIL makes a type called Z-Max. It's a high quality pure synthetic oil that has zinc in it. It is marketed specifically for classic cars and racing. I'm sure other high end synthetic oil brands offer something similar. Just don't start getting the idea that this would be the greatest thing since sliced bread for your family car. Unless you enjoy driving with the check engine light on constantly after your converter goes south.

No need to over analyze on brands here. The op Don made a very good post stating to read the label as things have changed and what to look for. Each individual can decide from that advice what suits thier needs.

Be careful about VR-1. It may have ZDDP in it, but it has little detergents in it because a racer isn't going to have it in his engine long before doing a tear down and rebuild.

Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote: Be careful about VR-1. It may have ZDDP in it, but it has little detergents in it because a racer isn't going to have it in his engine long before doing a tear down and rebuild.

You hit the nail on the head. You need to consider everything when you buy oil. While zinc is nice for flat tappets, it isn't a wonder additive. To me detergency is more important. Also consider the hours you will be putting on your engine. Say you plan on using your engine for 100 hours a year. How much additional wear will you have without zinc? It will be insignificant. If engine wear means so much, consider synthetic oil. It does reduce wear. It does not have a sacrificial additive, but it does provide a better protective layers then the old oils of 50 years ago. If you feel good about using a certain product, then go with it. Just keep in mind that the oil industry reformulated their motor oils to have anti wear properties when zinc was phased out.