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InjpumpEd, Doc, Mack I need your help |
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AllisFreak MN
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Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1594 |
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Topic: InjpumpEd, Doc, Mack I need your helpPosted: 01 Sep 2016 at 6:30pm |
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I'm attempting to remove the injector pump from my 6060 to be rebuilt. I have everything disconnected and when trying to remove pump from the housing the drive gear and all want to come with. It can't be removed with all that stuff tagging along, there is not enough room. Apparently there is more to this job than I thought. Wish I would have never started. Any advice besides pushing the tractor off a cliff? Because that's what I'm about ready to do. I should have stuck to gassers I guess. Thanks in advance.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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EricPA
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Watsontown,PA. Points: 2578 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 7:30pm |
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If I remember correctly when I removed my pump we took the cover off the front of the pump housing and slid the drive gear out that way after making sure the timing marks were lined up and marking the gear. It was pretty well explained in the service manual if I remember correctly. Hth. Eric
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Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5157 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 7:33pm |
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as Eric says, may need to slide the shaft ahead.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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AllisFreak MN
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Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1594 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 7:55pm |
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So does that mean I need the special tool to reinstall the shaft seals as explained in the I&T manual? I just don't quite understand the explanation in there. All I wanted to do is remove the pump and have it rebuilt. I don't want to get into buying special tools and all, or I will just have the whole tractor hauled in and repaired.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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EricPA
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Watsontown,PA. Points: 2578 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 8:10pm |
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First of all I'd burn the I&T manual and get an original Allis book
I didn't have any special tools we just pulled it off,put it in a box and sent it to Ed. Came back better than new
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Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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DougG
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8393 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 8:15pm |
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The special tool can be bought for 11 dollars at a pump shop its just a seal compressing tool, and you can just remove the pump off the back of the engine without taking the front plate of, always a risk of dropping the key into the oil pan,
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ILGLEANER
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Willow Hill,ILL Points: 6448 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 8:15pm |
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Sometimes someone pulls that gear off, and doesn't mark it. Then you get to re-time it !!!!
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Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated.
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2016 at 10:19pm |
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Sounds like there is grooves worn into bushing and seals don't want to slide out of grooves. Put a little pry on pump and it should slide off shaft. I take the front gear cover off then move shaft and gear forward. Not much room to slide pump off shaft. After shaft and gear is out, press gear off shaft, then you can put shaft with seals into pump before installing pump. Might be hard for first timer to retime. MACK
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