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Hubnut 
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
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 Topic: B block cracked (Now Repaired!)
Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 6:32pm |
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My recent B purchase for $400 that I thought I stole has bitten me! I got her running fine. Then I put a radiator on her and filled her so I could run her longer. The water started seeping out of the block in a crack that runs horizontally across the block drain. The crankcase doesn't have water in it and the radiator doesn't have oil. Can this crack be simply epoxied? Or is this thing toast?
Edited by Hubnut - 06 Feb 2016 at 3:56pm
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 6:53pm |
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Steve,
Dang, that doesn't sound good!
Welding maybe?
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 7:07pm |
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A friend of mine had a similar problem on his U about 30 years ago. A crack across the block drain. He put some JB Weld in the crack and it hasn't leaked since.
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littlemarv
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 7:08pm |
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Search Google, or YouTube, for "pinning an engine block".
It is NOT toast. I have seen blocks epoxied, welded, patches bolted or screwed on, and also so rusty they actually sealed themselves.
Last option might be a little time consuming.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Hubnut
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 8:02pm |
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Thanks guys. I drilled out the ends to hopefully stop the crack, cleaned it with a grinder, grooved the crack a little with a fine grinder, then I epoxied the snot out of it. It's holding water, but I haven't run the engine yet. We'll see what happens. I wanted to wait for the epoxy to fully cure. I was also a little embarrassed to say what I did. Thanks for the comments!
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Dick L
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 8:14pm |
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I bought a used car that had a crack in that area that was covered with bondo. It never leaked as long as I had it.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 8:31pm |
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Thanks Dick. You're work is so exceptional it's nice to hear this from you. I was worried I'd look like a fool for my "remedy."
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 5:04am |
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Now that you have it epoxied, and holding water, Get a can of Blue Devil water glass treatment, follow the instructions, and it'll last at least 2 years before needing it again...
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Ted J
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 5:38am |
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You did good Steve, did you use JB Weld or what??
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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cmsmoke
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 5:51am |
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You made the right choice. I have seen some blocks welded successfully, but I've seen more fail...They usually crack around the repair.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 6:19am |
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I've repaired 800 CI diesel engines with JB Weld. Nothin' to be embarrassed about. You did the correct procedure. Just let it cure a while and you should be fine. I've repaired them where ya can't even see where the repair was by sanding the area and blending. A coat of engine enamel and Viola! Crack gone. Say no to crack.... LOL!
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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PatrickBeth
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 6:51am |
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Lots of blocks out there, 400 you got a deal. Easy engine to rebuild, and will last a long long time. Do the temp fix, then start searching for another engine for 500 bucks, or something to rebuild.
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wbecker
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 7:54am |
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Good job, stop drilling the ends of the crack was a smart thing to do.
Bill B
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 12:20pm |
If it's just a matter of sealing a crack (meaning, there's no structural loading in that area to worry about), it doesn't need to be parent-metal welded... a better method is frequently just to scrub it really clean, warm it up cherry red, take flux and brass rod to it- brazing will wick in and fill it up tight, and frequently, bond it together stronger than if it were welded, without the associated issues of welding castings. I recently brazed an exhaust manifold on one of my Waukesha FCs... the ear broke off one end of the manifold, taking a chunk of the exhaust port with it. I cleaned it up, bolted it to a plate, warmed it up, brazed it back together, and cleaned it up with a die grinder and sanding disk, and painted it with black stove paint... and it's invisible and holding wonderfully. I've done same with iron engine blocks at least three dozen times. 
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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DonDittmar
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 12:37pm |
I had a guy with a C16 CAT that the engine blocked cracked right under the air compressor. Engine ran like a song, just leaked oil real bad. He did what you did with the JB Weld and the repair lasted about 100 feet. Once that block flexed it popped that JB right on the ground. He actually repaired it with black silicone until he had time to down the truck, then he put a short block in it.
Now the crack in this case was in a high stress area, yours isn't so you should have better luck. I just thought I would my .02 in there.
When done correctly and pin and stitch is about the best way to repair cracks in cast. Welding works if done by someone that knows how to weld cast. When welding, never prep the crack by grinding, always use a rotary file. The adhesive and abrasive in a grinding wheel can impregnate itself into the crack and therefore contaminating the weld.
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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DanC911
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 3:49pm |
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I used JB Weld to repair some damage between cylinders in a Nissan Pulsar. Sanded it flush, 2 head gaskets, and it ran like a champ in the demo derby until I lost my battery.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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Hubnut
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 6:38pm |
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Thanks much guys. It's nice to come here and post and not get blasted. It cured well (JB Weld), but I will wait until the weekend to fire her up and see what happens with heat. I've got my fingers crossed. Good group here!
Best,
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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garr
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 6:49pm |
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The right welder and the right rod and the block can be fixed successfully I have a WC with a bad (more than a crack) in the side of the block Had it welded and have had no problem
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Hubnut
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 3:54pm |
The JB weld is holding. I've gotten her up to temp a dozen times now and she's still dry. I changed the pan gasket and looked at the bottom of the engine. Looks good. No smoking at all. I changed the oil and filter, rebuilt the carb, and greased the fittings. I need a new rear wheel. The spline is toast as you can see. Not bad. $400 for the tractor, $90 for a battery box, $10 fuel line, $40 distributor, $15 coil, $12 JB Weld, $200 for a battery, alternator, bracket and belt. So about $800 total. I still need to get a replacement rear wheel.     
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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sandman2234
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 4:01pm |
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Or buy a metal shaper and fix the one you have...course a shaper takes up as much room as a tractor, so maybe that isn't such a good idea.
Maybe I have a spare one someplace out back? Spare axles and rims shouldn't be that hard to find.
David from jax
Edited by sandman2234 - 06 Feb 2016 at 4:02pm
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A proud member of the Allis Express movement!
Northeast Florida
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wbecker
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 4:08pm |
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That's good news Saved another one!
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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B26240
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 4:08pm |
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I JB'd a Farmall super c that belongs to my pastor about 6 years ago and this past summer I noticed it was a little damp on one end, maybe I didn't get it clean enough. I'm happy that it has held this long and recommend anyone try it as that is the easiest thing to do.
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B26240
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 4:10pm |
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PS You have a very nice looking B by the way !!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 4:22pm |
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You can epoxy that back wheel on. I did the flywheel on a 25,000 ton forge press and they ran it for 6 months till they got ahead far enough to have the machine down for more repair. I used Moglice for static fit and they had to heat it to 600 degrees to soften it to remove the flywheel.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 5:03pm |
 CTuckerNWIL wrote:
You can epoxy that back wheel on. I did the flywheel on a 25,000 ton forge press and they ran it for 6 months till they got ahead far enough to have the machine down for more repair. I used Moglice for static fit and they had to heat it to 600 degrees to soften it to remove the flywheel.
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Huh. Never even crossed my mind, but I like it. However, I think I've found a wheel replacement.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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acd21man
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Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 6:11pm |
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iv heard my dad talk about old CATS that was bad to crack and he said that they make a glue or apoxy that i think cat come up with to fix the blocks and he said it works really well
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2 wd 45,2 D-17 diesel/gas 3 pt, 220,d21, 4020,2 4430s used daily http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCudh8Xz9_rZHhUC3YNozupw
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Lon(MN)
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Posted: 07 Feb 2016 at 12:43pm |
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So far away. I have two B finals that came off an adjustable wide front B. Has the five bolt hub so a C wheel center would work. Cheap.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 07 Feb 2016 at 1:46pm |
Hubnut wrote:
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Edited by CrestonM - 07 Feb 2016 at 1:47pm
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 07 Feb 2016 at 9:34pm |
Hub I put a quote request in for third party shipping with Fastenal. Guys on the forum say it is the way to go with heavy stuff like your wheel. Are you OK with picking it up at your local Fastenal store if the price to ship sounds good? Kenny
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