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58 D17...power director questions |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 10:39am |
Pics to come but I just traded the WF for a pretty straight D17 Narrow front gas with power steering. Everything works pretty well except the draft control levers are stuck and the power director won't snap in to low the whole way and it whines. ..more so in high range. Runs and drives well. Ordering a manual today but can anyone five any ideas on the whining? Bearing? Thanks for any help.
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Hey Benny!!
What's your serial number?? I've got access to #8923-might be 8924- I forget which one it is right now. Good looking unit, btw.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 03 Aug 2015 at 1:08pm |
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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I forget off the top of my head....I think it was in the mid 7000's if it remember. I'll look tonight. It's not so pretty up close. Was a scrub and paint at some point but better looking than any of my other's lol
Edited by BennyLumpkin - 03 Aug 2015 at 1:13pm |
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Hey, something I just remembered that you can try. Drain the PD compartment down and then pull the side cover. Look inside and you will be able to see the set screw that locks the fork for the PD to the lever shaft. I've heard of them coming loose and causing lack of snapping in, but I'm not very confident that is your problem. When you get the manual, you might also look to see that the shims in the clutch are all there. I'd have to look it up, but there is a certain amount of shim thickness that has to be in there for it to work right. There's 3 sets of shim stacks in the clutch for a total of 9 stacks. If you take shims out from 1 set, they have to be added to the middle set IIRC. I also know that the middle set of 3 is different from the 2 outer sets. I moved shims on mine once, but I think that because the outer shims are different than the middle, that might have contributed to breaking clutch plates but I can't say for sure. Hopefully DR. Allis, MACK, or Don Bradley will see this and set us straight.
Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 03 Aug 2015 at 1:20pm |
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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The shimming doesn't worry me as much as the noise does. It's a whirring or shining sound. Does it in low but stops if I pull back pressure on the PD handle and gets worse in high. Doesn't matter if it's sitting or running down the road.
Edited by BennyLumpkin - 03 Aug 2015 at 1:19pm |
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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It still looks great.
Ours has the belt pulley without the pulley wheel. The engaging rod would be easy to make.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Mine makes the whirring noise too. More so in high than low. I also know mine sat for 15 years without running and did have moisture in the trans and PD. I could hardly believe how rusty the original clutch assy was. I split the tractor and swapped in a used clutch assy. If you go that route, make sure you have somebody who knows what to look for eyeball your clutch. It's not that bad to split one with stands. We did mine with stands on the front half and a chainfall on a pair of A frames. A heavy duty cherry picker would probably do it too.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Not sure how it looks inside but the fluid is good and clean. What oil should be in it? Looks pretty thin and clear like hytran.
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Through Google I found Dr.Allis going over adjustment and I watched a vid on YouTube so I understand that part. Just curious on the noise still. I'm sure we'll get it figured out
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54143 |
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Whiney noise might be final drive, or differential. Most of my experience is with 14's and 15's, I know, 17's are different...
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Dan73 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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I think the issue with getting it into low range could be bad clutches if you pull the pack Google the allis chalmers part number for the clutches there is a manufacturer in Ohio who sells direct. I swapped packs in my d15 with a pack that looked good but I bought all new clutches for my d17 they where not too bad price wise and as I use mine alot I sort of wish I had done new ones in my d15 but I had the used pack and it works.
If the noise is there sitting still I would say it isn't the finals they are not moving. I old put it in neutral on the transmission and then shift try putting it into high or low. If the noise is there in neutral I would suspect that the issue is bearing in the torque tube. Mine had a bad bearing on the main shaft but it didn't make any noise. I split it because I was having trouble putting it into high range. Long story short but I had issues with the clutch pack rebuild that had to be fixed. The clutch pack runs on hydraulic oil. So does the belt pullie compartment ahead of it. Then gear oil in the transmission and finials. |
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Dan73 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Oh I forgot to mention that your d17 looks alot nicer then mine!!! There is something to be said for a machine that looks nice. What do you have against your feeders? The aftermarket ones you buy now are not that great I have a set. Yours didn't look bad in the photo I would do body work on oem fenders if i had them.
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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The wheel side of the fenders had a number of patches welded in very poorly and they're pretty rusty at the mounts. They'll do for now but I'll keep an eye for a set. The paint is poor up close. I started washing it and rubbed some off so it have to be a little gentle with it.
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Dan73 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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My paint is a very old dealer repaint to PO 2 and mostly gone. As to the fenders I would suggest finding a good old school body guy and paying him to fix them you won't be happy with the aftermarket ones I wasn't but my d15 had nothing at all left to work with and I couldn't find d15 fenders so I just figured it was going to be wrong it might as well have aftermarket d17 fenders. Well they come predented so you don't have to worry about the first dent. They are also thinner then old oem fenders by alot. Not good quality at all.
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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I've been through the whole fender argument on here before. The inner structure of mine are roached and full of shoddy patchwork. I'll find better factory ones though I just pull and run snowblower at dad's and odd stuff so aftermarket would be ok. I have a set for my 45 and think they're decent. Anyways, I went out and finished washing it a bit ago and got most of the garbage off it and started snooping and noticed the lift arms wouldn't lift and the stick didn't hardly have anything on it. Put a gallon or so in and now they'll lift but it can push them down. My noise got quieter also. How do the quadrant controls work? They seem a bit bound up. Thanks guys!
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Dan73 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Glad to hear a little oil solved your noise issue. I never under stood how those two levers for the lift worked together. The top lever is the traction booster and will automatically raise the implement if the load increases. The bottom lever is the raise and lower with a hold position in the center. The owners manual states that the lever will feel like it stops in the center this is the hold position and it should always be returned to this position when the implement is at the correct height. I have never used the lift system successfully. We had a 3 point conversation on it when I was a kid but a spool valve was added to mine and if you used the valve it would mess up the lift. I hope the blurb from the manual helps.
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Mine feels bound up...I think something internal isn't right. It had no middle detent or stop. The noise got quieter but it's still there. Maybe it's in the pump not the PD? ?
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Dan73 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Make sure you press down to clear the notches on the top. I would check the linkage on at the base of the steering column. I haven't looked at it in a long time but there is a pivot of some point there that I had to clean up on mine. The hydraulic pump is a piston pump located in the compartment right in front of the power direct I pulled the bottom cover and cleaned years of crud out of mine. Maybe you should drain the oil and see what comes out.
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Benny,
Make sure that the Traction Booster lever is pulled/set all the way to the bottom and then see if your arms go down. They should and stand on them if you have to. Set it up some when you hang or drag an implement from the back. The traction booster works in conjunction with the other lever - raise, lower and hold. Example: We/I pulled a 14' or 16' disk almost to it's axles with our 17 - rear tires loaded and wheel weights on- bottom lever was in the bottom hole to keep the disc at the depth that dad wanted until we came to the headland at which time I would flip the lever out of the bottom hole and it would "float" up into the middle position wherein the disc would raise up about 3 inches in order to make the turn on the headland and cover the tire tracks in the turn. After the turn and straightened back out, I would drop the lever back in the bottom hole for full discing depth and make the 17 bark all of the way across the field. Pushing the lever all of the way to the top would raise the disc all of the way out of the ground. Hope this gives you a better picture of how it works.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 03 Aug 2015 at 11:13pm |
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Thanks guys. I think something internal is stuck our bound. Doesn't matter where I place the levers I cab push the arms down by hand and the lower handle doesn't seem to have full range of motion
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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I just went and looked at it and if I put the traction booster handle all the way down it won't go to the bottom. It stops 4 notches from it. If I put it there I can't move the lift handle at all.
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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How long had the 17 sat before you got it?
Any outside linkages stiff or binding?
Edited by Jim Hancock - 04 Aug 2015 at 12:02pm |
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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It sat I think 3 years he said. In an open air shed but still sat. Everything is "loose" but like I said if I put the traction booster handle down it'll only go 4 notches from the bottom and it stops and when I latch it there the lift handle won't move at all. If I put the TB handle up the lift handle moves a little but not much. It seems internally bound.
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Dan73 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6054 |
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Under the gas tank there are a couple of pins that attach the linkage to the top of the torque tube. I would pull those pins and check that the levers are not binding in the linkage outside the torque tube first. You might get lucky and find a rust problem on the outside. If it is internal I think you would ha e to drop the pump out and then I don't remember how good the access is. But it would be from the bottom or the motor side there is no access from the transmission side.
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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So I unhooked the rod that goes from the lift handle rod to the part it moved into the pump housing. If the TB handle is in the down lost ion it won't move at all. Also the TB handle won't go clear down. If If I put the TB handle up I can move the other part a little. Even with some added leverage it won't move...doeas?
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Rltool ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Jun 2013 Location: Middleville ,MI Points: 1831 |
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That one looks great Ryan! Nice addition. I just got a set of side panels for under the gas tank for my 59 D17. I'm working on duplicating them with a programable plasma cutter. Will let you know how it goes. My D17 is still in pieces. Patiently waiting it's turn. I know a guy with a parts D17 he is getting ready to scrap out. Not much left on it.
Ray W. |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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Let me know what he does have. I need some little pieces. Thanks Ray!
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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