| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
gtorick1 
Bronze Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2014
Location: wattsburg pa.
Points: 37
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: trouble shooting my hydraulics
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 5:11pm |
|
I got my d14 running well and now working on the hydraulic lift arms, I filled to the full level on the dipstick, started the tractor but the lift arms didn't move, I'm assuming the its the ram seals or a bad hose to the ram. I would like to test the pump to see if its working properly (or at all), I was going to crack open the pressure line to the rear remote to see if the pump forces fluid out the cracked open line when I start the tractor, would this be a good test? Also does the hydraulic fluid level need to be topped off in the clutch reservoir for the hydraulic pump to work, I haven't filled it yet. Thanks for any input.
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
DSeries4
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7505
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 5:45pm |
|
First: The torque tube needs to have oil in it, so if there is none in there, fill it up.
Second: The line on the left side of the tractor is not a pressure line. It is a return line to the reservoir. Oil is going to the cylinder first. Cracking it open is not going to do anything.
Third: Most likely the pressure line inside the tractor is no good (quite common). Need to split the tractor to replace it. At that time, you can also check out the lift cylinder.
Fourth: You should be able to hear the pump work when you raise the lift arm lever to the highest position. The pumps don't fail very often. I doubt there is anything wrong with it.
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
DiyDave
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 54125
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 6:16pm |
|
You don't need to split the tractor to replace the ram hose. You do have to take off the drawbar, and the lift arm housing, and PTO.
|
|
gtorick1
Bronze Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2014
Location: wattsburg pa.
Points: 37
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 6:37pm |
|
Thank You, torque tube does have fluid, looks like I will be removing the lift arm assembly
|
|
DSeries4
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7505
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 8:35pm |
|
My mistake. Had torque tube on my brain at the time! Yes, remove the lift assembly.
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21903
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Feb 2015 at 8:54pm |
|
You're getting all confused here. Raise the long hydraulic lever to the left of the steering wheel all the way to the top, and with the engine idling AND foot clutch up, the pump should immediately be raising the lift arms (provided the hydraulic oil level is full, and pump is in good working order) and you should actually "hear" the pump working. There is no need to even consider replacing the internal lift arm hose or packing UNLESS the oil level goes DOWN in the hydraulic compartment and UP in the transmission compartment !!! If you don't hear the pump and the lift arms don't move AND THE OIL LEVELS STAY CORRECT, YOU HAVE INTERNAL HYDRAULIC PUMP ISSUES.
|
|
gtorick1
Bronze Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2014
Location: wattsburg pa.
Points: 37
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 5:38am |
|
Did all that, but no noise from the pump, when I drained the old fluid (before I started the motor) I loosened the drain nut to see if water would come out first and it did, about a pint came out. Also when I got the tractor a lot of thin oil came out the bad pto seal in the back
|
|
DiyDave
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 54125
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 6:15am |
|
drop the cover where the drain is, look for parts in the pan, then look upward. Before you drop the pan, make sure its just not a disconnected linkage...
|
|
jaybmiller
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24694
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 6:48am |
|
Put a 5 gal bucket under the drain plug by the snap coupler bell. If you get a LOT ( full bucket) of oil, you've got my problem...oil from hydraulics flows into tranny, into rear end(also oils the brakes,sigh). When itcan't lift, I add oil to the pump filler right side by dash.good for a month or two. I have to drain the 'read end' every 3 months of so.
My gut tells me to fix this is a huge , heavy undertaking and having a paper thin L5, repairing it is not an option...got lots of room, heated garage,tool,etc.
unless someone wants to 'practice' on my D-14, lol.
Jay
|
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
|
Gary
Orange Level Access
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
Points: 5900
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 1:00pm |
|
Myron
" Second: The line on the left side of the tractor is not a pressure line. It is a return line to the reservoir. Oil is going to the cylinder first. Cracking it open is not going to do anything "
If the line on the left side of the tractor is not a 'pressure line'
how does the pressurized oil get from the Pump to the Lift Cylinder ?
See page 167 in the attached link D-14 Parts Catalog.
All the 'hose and lines etc' in the picture are both Pressure (to lift) and Return (to lower)
Gary
http://www.grandpastractor.com.php53-25.dfw1-2.websitetestlink.com/kunena/allis-chalmers-tractors/973-d14-parts-manual.html
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Feb 2015 at 4:07pm |
|
Pressure goes from the pump thru the control valve and to the pump outlet tee, number 4 in the picture. From there it goes to the lift arm cylinder and to the distribution block on the back top of the lift arm housing.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 12 Feb 2015 at 4:19pm
|
|
|
|
gtorick1
Bronze Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2014
Location: wattsburg pa.
Points: 37
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 11:34am |
|
Ok, I got the lift arms to work, apparently the traction boost lever also needs to be at the top? Thanks everyone.
|
|
jaybmiller
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24694
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 12:42pm |
|
Not on my D-14s....if TB lever is fully down, the other one just raises /lowers the arms like a regular 'lever.
If the TB lever is say 1/2 way, it'll keep the plow in the ground making nice even furrows all day long on hilly soil
Jay
.
|
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
|
|
gtorick1
Bronze Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2014
Location: wattsburg pa.
Points: 37
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 4:42pm |
|
I think lift arm control was labeled wrong, pics on a new post
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Feb 2015 at 4:48pm |
 gtorick1 wrote:
I think lift arm control was labeled wrong, pics on a new post |
Yep! Put the notched lever down and raise en lower with the back one.
|
|
|
|
