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Finished my AC175 Brake job ( Eldon ? )

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NC Bruce View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Mill Spring, NC
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    Posted: 02 May 2012 at 11:25pm
I just finished getting my 175 back together with all new brakes.  WOW...what an adventure in learning, esp. for an old man that has never put brakes on anything else.  ELDON, you were a big encouragement for me, reading about your brake jobs.  I'll  try to post couple of photos.Here's what R side looked like, broken pads and springs, let the wheel lock down a couple of times.  
Here's the hardest part for me, trying to gauge the distance 2.034 to 2.044?  Anyone sell a 'brake mic' that works for this measurement?
 
 
 
 
We had to order some AC shims, but only had 3 in stock at the time, at Sandy Lake.  So my son John and I ordered .010 shim stock, and made a 'poor mans - shim punch', rough but it worked.  I had ordered a small punch set from Travlers, but it wouldn't cut the 10/thou. steel shims.  John used to old plow points...ha!  My Dad & Gpa would have been proud!
 
Finally, the radiator was worn out.  I couldn't find one, so had to have this one ReCored ( USA copper ).  Wow....pricey...$350 plus labor!
 
It was tough, and I'm slow, but I felt good about it.  Now I'm more confident to tackle my old AC 175 weedpatch, gasser, I'm trying to get running.  I can see the band springs are missing/slipped from outside.  
 
Enjoy hearing your comments / experiences?
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2012 at 11:37pm
Bruce! the toughest part is over! I have lots of extra shims now that I parted out a couple of tractors. Ya shoulda asked! For the gauge to measure the gap, I used the 2" calibrating rod from my 1-3" micrometer and used a feeler guage to make up the difference.  It worked great. I bought the little aircraft riveter to put new linings on and that worked out good too.....which reminds me, I have a 170 that the brakes are starting to squeal on...it is the LH side so shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to fix up! P.S. Squealing means the rivets are hitting the drum...and then they will ruin it!
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2012 at 7:02am
The best way to get the measurement is to put it togather using 2 bolts then with feeler gauge measure between lining and side block. If it is ok finish if not you will know how much to take out or put in.
  The engineer that wrote that part of the manual needs to go back to school.   MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2012 at 7:16am
Good job Bruce!! BTW $350 for a radiator that size isn't to bad. It's amazing how much a guy can do when we try, and having this site helps greatly.
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:12am
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

The best way to get the measurement is to put it togather using 2 bolts then with feeler gauge measure between lining and side block. If it is ok finish if not you will know how much to take out or put in.
  The engineer that wrote that part of the manual needs to go back to school.   MACK
I thought about measuring that way but no one would tell me what the gap is supposed to be? Was I to assume the drum assembly is 2" thick?
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2012 at 9:47pm
Bruce I decided to tackle the LH side on my 170D this evening.  Pulled into the shed at 5:30 and backed  out at 7:00! That included wrestling the loaded 18.4 wheel off, but the cylinder pin did slide right out. Only problem I found was a big old mouse nest and the outside brake disc was cracking up...bands and other disc looked good, so I riveted on a new disc, sprayed the rest down with brake cleaner and slapped it back together.  Nothing like practice....no wonder the AC dealers didn't think these brakes were that much of a PITA!
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NC Bruce View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NC Bruce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:15pm
Eldon, were you talking about 1 1/2 hr?   WOW....did I say you were good?   Of course the L side is easier than that right hydraulics side!
 
Was the 170 exactly like the 175....no differences at all?
 
I'm curious about my 175 gasser now....I can't see any springs thru the back rock housing hole, or front either.  But it does have some brakes....not sure how?
 
I posted earlier about that brake rod, and special thanx to your brake post about yours, I made sure mine broke lose and were turnable, BEFORE putting it back together. 
 
HOW much does anyone tighten the rod, and distance of Brake Pedal Travel?  I est. about 2-3 inches, with ruler?  What do ya'll use?
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2012 at 11:27pm
Bruce the 170 and D17 SIV have an extra gear pressed on the axle for the brakes, so the brake drums have a larger ID spline. Otherwise they take the same linings and springs.  The outer springs just hold the bands away from the drum to reduce wear....shouldn't affect how they work. I think the manual says 1 1/2" free travel of the brake pedal...could be 2". I just make sure both are equal.
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