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BradH 
Orange Level
Joined: 28 Feb 2016
Location: Corydon Ia.
Points: 264
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 Topic: Finally a little success
Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 8:48pm |
Just thought I'd update you guys on my WD 45 project in case anybody is interested. Last time I had it running it would backfire and cut out if you had the throttle open more than about half. Then it wouldn't run more than a few seconds at a time. We put on a new rotor, condenser, and points. It would run for a few seconds and then die. More trying resulted in a dead battery and me walking away frustrated. I talked to a guy at work who knows his stuff. He said the sediment bowl was plugged or the pipe going into the tank. I haven't had much time to work on it so this all took place over a few weeks time. Sunday after we got done plowing I decided to look at the situation. I dumped the gas out of the sediment bowl. It was clean. I took out the screen and blew it out with the air compressor. It had some buildup but not much at all. Because of the way the sediment bowl is made I couldn't get the air gun alligned to blow straight up the pipe. I gained nothing by trying. Turned the gas on and only got one drop. Gave up again. Today I went back determined to remove the tank, pull off the bowl and clean it all out. I loosened the bolts at the back and proceede to take off the gas line. Somehow my hand got wet. I turned the gas on and it ran out on my hand some more. So I put it all back together and tried to start it. Nothing. I mean nothing at all. After I figured out the problem with the ground cable I tried again. Sure enough, it turned over, fired, and ran, just like it had always done so. Just to try my luck I ran it several times this afternoon, just driving around and then later pulling the disk some. Other than my own inexperience with the tractor itself we had no real issues. I don't know what happened to make it work but I'm sure glad it finally does. I guess it just saw another tractor getting to play in the dirt and decided it wanted to as well. I know it's a long post, but I'm pretty pleased with the events of the day and wanted to share with you. Thanks for reading, and for the help and support so far. Later, Brad
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Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills!
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drobCA
Orange Level
Joined: 20 Jun 2017
Location: Perris, CA
Points: 292
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Posted: 08 Nov 2017 at 9:09pm |
way to go Brad! tomorrow I finish off a too long ford 8n refurb and I hope for the same result - a running tractor! then I can get back to fussing' with my orange ones...
btw no post is too long when you describe what you did. thanks for taking the time to write it.
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3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18923
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 8:14am |
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Brad, that is good news! That was the FIRST thing you were supposed to do, see if you had adequate flow of gas. You could very well have something in the tank that is plugging the pipe from the sediment bowl and it'll come back again. Drain the tank and then take a shop vac and clean it out. That should do it for good.
Glad you got er running! I know how frustrating it can be....BTDT.....
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Bill Long
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Points: 4556
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:40am |
Brad, One of the most frustrating things we ran into was on a B - what else. They would call and say the tractor was down. We would go out and it would run. Luckily the unit was close to the shop cause we got several more calls with the same results. Came to find out that they had lost the gas tank cap. They put a rag in the opening to keep the dust out. Rag fell in the tank. Got a new gas tank cap and forgot about the rag. After about four trips we checked the gas tank and guess what - we found the rag. It would float around the tank and finally clog the gas line. After the tractor stopped it would float off. When we got there tractor would run well. Did we kick ourselves for some time after that. Glad you found your problem Good Luck! Bill Long
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Stan IL&TN
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:46am |
Be careful if using a shop vac in sucking up gas fumes because it may not turn out well. 
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson Cnty,GA
Points: 6430
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:10am |
 Stan IL&TN wrote:
Be careful if using a shop vac in sucking up gas fumes because it may not turn out well. |
X2. Stan, that was my first thought about using a shop vac. If any of the gas fumes go through the motor and there are any sparks present things could get real ugly real fast. I would use an air line vacuum.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 6036
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 2:08pm |
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Hee hee... it becomes 'Shop Vac Vesuvius'... 'Mount St. Shop-Vac'...
One way to do damage control in this scenario, is to remove the sediment bowl, and let it all drain out... then stick the end of your pressure-washer in there and literally blast the crap loose from inside... let water roll out the bottom. Let it air-dry about halfway, then (with sediment bowl and cap off), wave a grille-lighter over the hole. It'll whoof a little, mebbie glow a flame, 'till the worst of the flammable leftovers are gone... then tape a piece of 1" PVC conduit to the nose of your shop-vac and suck away...
But my favorite, is to put a double fist-full of 1/4-20 bolts down the hole, and 'tumble' the tank for a while. The bolts will break loose any crusty scale and gak, which will easily rinse or vac out.
Don't forget- many (if not most) of these carbs have a debris catch screen located at the carb inlet. If you see what looks like an 'adapter' threaded into the carb casting, put a wrench on it and back it out. If there's a screen on it, clean it out. If the screen is missing, it's rotted away, and you'll ineviteably find it's remains in the needle valve, bottom of the bowl, main jet, or idle circuit.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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BradH
Orange Level
Joined: 28 Feb 2016
Location: Corydon Ia.
Points: 264
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 3:35pm |
Thanks for all the tips guys. Right now I'm just pleased that it runs. Later I'm gonna do more of the fine tuning on it. The weather is turning colder so the nice days to work on it are rare. I was a little surprised at the situation, I had checked at the carb once and thought I was getting good flow. Guess not. I think next it'll be time to deal with the hydraulics. one cylinder leaks pretty bad and the hoses are in bad shape so they need changed. Later, Brad
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Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills!
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8448
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 8:26pm |
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Glad you got it running! We need some pictures too!
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Points: 1146
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Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 9:06pm |
I know last time I had problems, I had a three fold problem. 1) Stem going into my sediment bowl was plugged with rust and dirt, the sediment bowl was full of rust and dirt, and the valve stem packing was leaking out the end by the stopcock knob. I tried to spray it out with high pressure water and completely destroyed the seal the rest of the way. 2) Carb wound up getting a ton of junk in it, as well. So to fix the problem, I had to take the gas tank off, clean it out (used like 3 pounds of cheap nuts and bolts from the local farm and home store on sale -- also, never use BBs, they're terrible for this) of rust and junk, then take the sediment bowl off and clean it and repacked the valve stem with graphite valve stem packing stuff (like a soft black rope you pack in there), and then cleaned the carb out with carb cleaner and compressed air because it sucked junk in too. A few pics:   Also, had to shine up a bunch of parts on the electrical system because a lot of secret rust was hiding in the wiring, like this:   ^ And who knew that a military surplus green belt would make a perfect webbing between the hood and the gas tank!
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18923
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Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 8:09am |
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I've used the military belts for a long time now. BUT, what you need to do is to get some paraffin wax so you can melt the wax on the stove and then SOAK the belt in it to completely coat it. Otherwise the belts soak up moisture and will create rust to the tank support and strap and the tank itself. Just a little tidbit I've found along the way.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18923
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Posted: 10 Nov 2017 at 8:12am |
Yeah guys, I just said to clean it out. I SHOULD have said GOOD! I use steam and then baking soda and then make sure there are no fumes and THEN use the shop-vac. I like Dave Kamp's way of doing it too, using a lighter to check to see if there are any fumes left.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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garden_guy
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Points: 1146
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Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 4:54pm |
Ted J wrote:
I've used the military belts for a long time now. BUT, what you need to do is to get some paraffin wax so you can melt the wax on the stove and then SOAK the belt in it to completely coat it. Otherwise the belts soak up moisture and will create rust to the tank support and strap and the tank itself. Just a little tidbit I've found along the way.
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Oooh, this sounds like a good idea. Thanks.
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: 5058
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Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 8:22pm |
Stan IL&TN wrote:
Be careful if using a shop vac in sucking up gas fumes because it may not turn out well. |
X-2 Many shop vac's the air that go's in the hose through the tank and then through the motor with arcing brushing.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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