final drive and trans rebuild what to look for?

What model tractor is it? If it's something like a B/C/CA/D10-12, WD, U, etc. they all make a pretty loud growling noise. It's normal. 

Sorry 1938 B, no lift but belt drive. It sat outside for an undetermined amount of years with no shifter boot on it and when I dumped the oil it was milkshake. I left the drain plugs out and covered it up, there it sat for another 7 years.

Well I got the rear wheels and one rear wheel center nut off, that was not too bad with a wire wheel and some PB blaster. The other one the PO hammered on with a chisel so that is gonna take some welding to fix so I can get it off. I guess I'll weld some flats back on it so I can get a wrench back on it. I was wondering about how the brake drums were on there, I haven't gotten that far yet. As far as cost goes for seals and bearings, I already am close to two grand. So far I did new front rims which I plug welded on the riveted centers and trued on a spindle in the vice. Then another crapload of engine parts which I still need a valve train kit, rotators, crank, lifters and major overhaul kit along with machine work. I did get custom mixed Martian Seymour GS auto paint and epoxy primer in that price with assorted engine parts I needed. My intentions are a complete better than new build to use the tractor for long distance tractor cruises. My father and I have gone on a few three day cruises, 30 miles a day if I remember correct. I have to keep up with my dads 820 JD, my brothers WC with road gear box and a couple JD As in the family too. I am not sure of top speed the B in stock form can maintain but I am doing everything I can to make it handle running long upper RPM runs. I would hate to have to go back into the drivetrain or haul it home on a trailer after a complete rebuild and paint. But anyhow I am just OT rambling here I guess, my main concern now is to make sure the drivetrain and brakes are in good condition for long term use.

Edited by Jonny B 1938 - 22 Aug 2016 at 8:42pm

Look at the final drive housing all around by the brake drum... there will be a 3/4 inch round hole - normally on the bottom. That drains out crud and water, and also allows you to put a 1/2 inch extension thru and remove the setscrew on the brake hub to shaft.. after you get all the crud out of the brake area, get the brake shoes out, remove the set screw... then wire brush the shaft as much as possible so the drum can move easier... soak it good with penetrant... remove the outboard bearing cover ... a good hydraulic press can be used to push the shaft out, or a drum puller, or a good 5 pound hammer and block... but the press is a LOT BETTER. Dick has a picture somewhere, maybe he will post.

Albert wrote: Jonny B if you want to PM me your phone number I will text you some pictures of the brake drum puller I made. It works good on D 14 and D15.

I apreaciate the offer, I like the press idea though. 75 years of rust is gonna be a challenge for sure. If it looks like everything else I think I'll be on this project a while LOL.

Reached a hurtle today, I can't seem to knock the brake band pins out. I see a couple small holes in the housing on top but I do not see a pin or threads for a set screw in there, am I missing something? I remove one clip on the inside where the band retainer is in the housing but do not see anything holding the rest up.

Also how do I tell which rear drive I have? The book shows B125 or 60H, they come apart differently. This is not an easy task for sure, it have done many Power Kings, JD, Ford, Case and others but the B is an animal of its own for sure.

Well the brake band shafts are not giving up, heated and tapped all afternoon. They are getting the sawzall on the inside and drilled out. I would rather make new shafts than drive half way across the Midwest or US for another housing.

Jonny B 1938 wrote: I am not sure of top speed the B in stock form can maintain but I am doing everything I can to make it handle running long upper RPM runs.

7.8 miles per hour. Might as well find a CA tranny if you want to do tractor drives.

Looks like taller tires are in order for higher ground speed, 9.5 or 10". I busted one drum on my first attempt at removing one, it started to move for a bit then snapped so once again I am going to cut it out and save on parts and agrivation. I got all the brake band pins out by cutting them off with a sawzall and punching the ends out, that worked out pretty easy once I got a technique established. The big final drive gear and shaft also came out fairly east once I removed the lock nut. The bearings of course are pitted and scored from moisture and dirt so those gotta go. One piece at a time I guess, learning some new stuff and using a lot I learned on other projects.

Edited by Jonny B 1938 - 26 Aug 2016 at 4:27pm

Well drum number one is burned off, came off clean with no casualties. Shafts have grooves where the seals go of course so I'll need speedy sleeves there. Tomarrow I'll knock down the other side and make a list of seals, bearing and sleeves to fix her up.

We got lucky when we restored 38B #751, We found a 38 parts tractor with near perfect finals and a complete early BE engine for $150. What we had to replace was a total disaster. A welded up, brazed up mess.
11704 38 Bs were built. 21702 39s came off the assembly line. They are not all that collectable and 38/39 Handcranker parts tractors are cheap.
Not all went to China yet.