Ether injector 6080 help

Use the block heater or install intake heater if it doesnt have one. Much better for cold starts.

The Fall of 1980 was the introduction of the 6060/6080 tractors. The engines had already been used in the 78/79 harvest season in the K2/F2 combines.  They were 14 to 1 compression ratio, which made them a hard starter when cold. There's a reason ether start was standard equipment on a combine, because a 110V electrical outlet wasn't always available in the field. Whenever we sold a new 6000 series tractor, they always had an engine block heater and ether start. During pre-delivery I always relocated the ether atomizer into the air tube ahead of the radiator and just above the air cleaner hose. This softened the ether "hit" and made it much more acceptable to the customer.  One thing for certain....you will need some sort of starting aid in cool temp areas. Pick your poison.....block heater.........ether start.........manifold heater.......or a heated building.

With a fresh overhaul and the glow plugs I could start my 6080 at 21 degrees, anything colder I would run out of battery, one battery!

Coleman "basketball" radiant heater, slid under oil pan about an hour before start time!

ssefick wrote: The Perkins needs a little bit of help this winter.

Are we still talking about the Allis?

I thought the 6080 had an Allis engine?

First, I very much appreciate all of your thoughts and suggestions.

It is an Allis engine. There is a 175 manual in the binder the previous owner gave me.

Sorry I was unclear.

1. There is no electricity at the tractor.

2. The tractor is hard to start when cold.

3. I have never had a diesel engine without glow plugs, and, instead, has an ether injector system.

Question:
Given 1-3 what is the least complicated, practical solution that will cause the least engine damage, and start the engine when cold.

Order an agco ether canister? Is the ether can a normal starter fluid can?

I will look at the basketball heater.

Your tractor came with ether start on it. USE IT !!!   Buy a fresh can of ether. Remove the spray tip. Install the can to the base, making sure the rubber seal didn't stick to the old can when you removed it. Sit in seat. Push in the foot clutch pedal. Leave throttle at slow idle. Crank engine and while cranking push and RELEASE the ether button,  If no-go quickly hit/release ether button a second time or whatever it takes while still cranking. Ether button can be hit multiple times without cranking to keep the engine running as needed. Ether button is wired hot and does NOT require starter to be engaged.

For what it's worth, the whole shebang can be purchased new for usually under $50.00 on ebay. Given the age and being open to atmosphere, I'd look at a replacement unit myself. I just installed a new one last year on my large Ingersol-Rand air compressor and picked it up for $35.00 complete new in the box. The ether cartridge was $66.00 and that really surprised me at the heavy truck parts store I use. 40 years ago those were about $8.00..... 

looking at parts book. Looks like can screws into place. Opps there’s two types. Call agco and see if there still available 

Edited by Mikez - 11 Feb 2022 at 8:55am

Was able to find parts for mine at a salvage yard.

There's nothing wrong with ether if used properly. It's not as evil as it's made out to be.

John Deere ether (80%) used on a smaller (say 236 Perkins) high compression engine can be bad news as the one-battery starting system will lock-up if given the least bit too much. The 6080 is a lower compression engine, with two large batteries and if cheap ether is used, you'll never have any issues. Just got a text the other day from a good customer with a picture of his Grandpa's 6080 tach. He just rolled over 8,000 hrs, bought new in 1980 or 81. Never been touched other than a clutch.

Purchased a 1981 serial number 2096, model 6080 in 2004. Found it in a scrap yard. Had 4200 or so hours on the hour meter. I thought I'd take chance and bought it. Replaced a bunch of stuff like the turbo, hyd pump and rebuilt the injector pump....and the original ether injector system.... buying/replacing the original parts as necessary...and re-shimmed the external thrust bearing which was out of spec.  I agree with Dr Allis...the original early 6080 starting system works well  if you understand how it works.

Edited by Longmeadow Farm - 12 Feb 2022 at 2:58pm

The fact that there was no bail for the can, left open to dirt, 40 years old and the ether atomizer may be plugged, you might wind up just buying a whole ether start kit. Have you ever got the tractor started one time ??

If the solenoid works, install a new can, disconnect the copper tube at the atomizer and see if it will squirt ether when you press/release the button. If so, connect the line and if the atomizer is clean, it will fire the engine up. If it is plugged, not ether will pass thru.