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Engine "Run-On" ??

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Engine "Run-On" ??
    Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 4:23pm
What is the "main" reason for the "run-on/dieseling" of a gas engine??  We run a '68 model year 180 gasser that runs FLAWLESSLY during "work "loads, but come time to turn the key off, tends to want to "carry-on" Confused . Is this a timing issue or carb issue or the nature of the straight 6 ?? Thanks
Sorry, it's a '69


Edited by FREEDGUY - 26 Dec 2019 at 4:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 4:42pm
Timing, a little advanced if I remember correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 4:47pm
had one doing that' sounds like the time;in is retarded some' may need to be advanced a little bit..

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 5:02pm
But it starts/runs SOOOOO smooth Wink , it's just the shut down even after letting her sit and idle for 3 minutes or more?? She LITERALLY just PURRS during operation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 5:13pm
Could be a lot of things. Deposits on pistons or valves could be cause. Timing as already mentioned. Check the advance weights on distributor to make sure they are free. Check spark plugs to make sure they are clean and correct heat range. Time it properly with a light. Check idle speed and set as per manual. Too fast idle may cause that problem. Inline 6 cyl probably around 650 or so. I’m sure some one will give you the exact setting. Sometimes just letting it idle a bit before you shut it off helps. If you can’t find solution put in hi gear. Shut off key and snuff with clutch. 
Sorry I see you are already idling it down! Lol. 


Edited by Ed (Ont) - 26 Dec 2019 at 5:15pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 5:26pm
Not sure how timing will affect it "dieseling", since the ignition system is shut off. Many carburetors have a solenoid in the main jet which is called an "anti-dieseling solenoid" once key is shut off, the solenoid closes and cuts off fuel from flowing through the nozzle. Carbon deposits can cause it, too hot of plugs may too, but idle speed can very much do it. I'd bet the gas is supposed to idle below 600, possibly even 500. The diesels idle spec is 600. I'm a diesel guy now days, but sure have messed with my share of gas engines lol!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 5:41pm
Originally posted by Ed (Ont) Ed (Ont) wrote:

Could be a lot of things. Deposits on pistons or valves could be cause. Timing as already mentioned. Check the advance weights on distributor to make sure they are free. Check spark plugs to make sure they are clean and correct heat range. Time it properly with a light. Check idle speed and set as per manual. Too fast idle may cause that problem. Inline 6 cyl probably around 650 or so. I’m sure some one will give you the exact setting. Sometimes just letting it idle a bit before you shut it off helps. If you can’t find solution put in hi gear. Shut off key and snuff with clutch. 
Sorry I see you are already idling it down! Lol. 
Greatly appreciate your input !! New plugs,new wires,new cap, new points, new condensor AND new  carb (not rebuit). If memory serves, the good DOCTOR said this particular engine was not too friendly to accessing the timing marks on the crank and he was 100% correct !! It's done this for the 14 years that we've owned it,the only other "ignition" we encountered wasa with a D 15 that would "almost" lock up during the starting procedure ( 2 fast revs, then a sudden stall of momentum, the BANG, it was running).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wide Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 9:45pm
Idle too high?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 10:13pm
gas engines 'dieseling' as stated , has nothing to do with ignition system - unless your key is bad - when you turn the key off it stops firing.  Now, when the plugs stop firing the engine is still running probably 600 rpm approx.  Air and fuel is still being pushed into the engine - IF the engine has high compression and is hot , any bit of carbon, spark plug debris, or other item that remains a hot spot  will act as a spark plug and ignite the fuel. (if the timing is WAY out it could cause the plugs to overheat - the engine usually will self destruct if  it is run long term like this - unless you just worked on the timing this is very unlikely) The remedy will lie in plug replacement to a colder plug if that is the culprit , adding anti carbon additives like seafoam or other products for a long time - not jus a one shot deal - or you can do what I do with my gas high compression engines that do this - back the screw out of the idle stop to the point where when the throttle is jammed tight shut -it kills the engine even with the key on.. shutting off the fuel ( as mentioned some carbs - as in the deere and massey line- had anti diesel electric $olenoid$ in the main fuel jet to shut off the fuel) will stop the run on.   An engine will not run w/o fuel.  If you do have one that does - apply for a patent, quick - and run for president...
 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2019 at 11:07pm
My 45 will try to do it if just a hair too much idle speed,but it doesn't sound nice at all! Good way to break ring lands and if severe enough, crack cranks. Slow the idle down. A 6 ought idle at 450 rpm pretty easy,maybe less.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 5:46am
Incorrect timing will most likely cause you to have the carburetor idle speed and mixture set incorrectly, getting everything set correctly should allow the engine to stop when allowed to idle for a couple minutes before turning the key off. Poor quality gas can also be part of the problem.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 6:33am
Without coil power to spark the plugs, the only way I know for it to run is hard carbon deposits in the cylinders. They act like little, intense glow plugs .the 'fire in the hole' needed for the big bang.
Two ways to remove... 1- pull the head and scrape them off, 2- chemically.  I've heard that if you drip water into the intake at just the right rate, it'll 'steam clean' the carbon out. has to be fast idle and lots of water, almost to stalling it.

Whatever  method you decide on do it NOW before the engine handgrenades !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 7:05am
Back in the 70's it was almost normal for cars and trucks to diesel.  And that was new and with the ignition turned off.  It was always said to be caused by the timing being advanced.  Although, it didn't matter what you did, they would still diesel.  If I remember correctly(Questionable) it was about the same time they made the switch to unleaded gas!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 7:50am
john is right.  I remember TV ads for stuff that addressed "engine run on".  Personally, I had a 1980 F 150 straight 6 that was a champion at it for a while!  Messed with timing and carb settings and even changed out carbs and finally a vacuum leak somewhere knocked the rest of it out. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 8:02am
OK laugh away but I shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl and let it run out of gas then shut off lol. Never diesels! [<:o)]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 8:17am
Originally posted by TimCNY TimCNY wrote:

OK laugh away but I shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl and let it run out of gas then shut off lol. Never diesels! [<:o)]


Ding ding, winner winner chicken dinner.  Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 9:48am
probably take 5-10 minutes to stop ? In that time, engine cools down and carbon stops glowing so dieselling can't occour ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 11:00am
Rarely more than a full minute and a half, at slow idle. Otherwise no, sometimes at half throttle and always less than a minute that way, at least by my reckoning but honestly I don't pay attention, the only thing I DO pay attention to is turning the key off once it stops. It just works for me and I don't like having gas in the bowl if it's just going to be sitting for extended periods. Doesn't hurt, just turn gas on, turn the key and sometimes (most times?) it fires up and never even hear it crank. At most, ever, a full revolution before firing. Argue with that lol!
Works for me, not gonna change it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 5:09pm
I appreciate all of the replies, sadly 2 of the posters don't realize where the shut off valve is on a 180 Ouch. Might look into the the chemical additives for carbon build-up. No, the timing has never been tweaked since we've owned her; 11 years. She idles at 510 rpm BTW.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave H (NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 5:33pm
idle speed should be 400 to 450 rpm   from ac  service book
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by Dave H (NE) Dave H (NE) wrote:

idle speed should be 400 to 450 rpm   from ac  service book
 
Thanks for that, I will make an adjustment Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 9:18pm
You need to put a big ole plow on it and WORK it. That will fix your carbon issue.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 27 Dec 2019 at 9:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 6:33am
We have an 89 Chevy tandem dump truck with a 427 gas engine. With 15 tons in the bed it weighs 54,000. It is the worst for dieseling that I have ever seen. It will diesel for what seems like 30 seconds.

We have a mechanic up the road that does the maintenance on it. It runs good and sounds good. Even if you let it cool 10-15 minutes it will still do it. We just put it in gear and turn the key of and gently let the clutch out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 7:27am
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

I appreciate all of the replies, sadly 2 of the posters don't realize where the shut off valve is on a 180 Ouch. Might look into the the chemical additives for carbon build-up. No, the timing has never been tweaked since we've owned her; 11 years. She idles at 510 rpm BTW.

Well shoot, I had threads mixed up. You're partly right, I just forgot this thread was regarding a 180. My apologies.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

You need to put a big ole plow on it and WORK it. That will fix your carbon issue.
 
LOL!! , sadly dad sent the White 508 down the road 13 years ago Cry . Granted the 180 unballusted wouldn't pull the old 5/16 Wink. It's the planting/auger(8x51) and summer "bush hog" mowing tractor Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by TimCNY TimCNY wrote:

Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

I appreciate all of the replies, sadly 2 of the posters don't realize where the shut off valve is on a 180 Ouch. Might look into the the chemical additives for carbon build-up. No, the timing has never been tweaked since we've owned her; 11 years. She idles at 510 rpm BTW.

Well shoot, I had threads mixed up. You're partly right, I just forgot this thread was regarding a 180. My apologies.
 
You have NO reason for an apology, any input is "normally" good input Smile. Have a great new year !!! BTW, the shut off location/access on a 180 leaves ALOT to be desired Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captaindana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 7:30pm
We also had a new 180G in 1970 and ran it for 5000 hours before trading it in for a larger workhorse. It too dieseled as stated above during every shutdown until we, like wekracer , simple stalled it gently only by shutting off the key and pulling back on the lift arm hydraulic control lever.   Worked for me. Dana
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 9:13pm
Have a nearly identical setup acts the same way. Never been a big deal but then i got in a hurry in a rainstorm... Drove it in the shed, killed it in gear and jumped out to get the combine in out of the rain. It dieseled backward before i even got the door slammed. Instead, the door caught the support pole of the shed and got turned into an ugly accordian! Glad it was the door instead of me, but was a strong reminder of how a little thing and a big hurry can cause problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2019 at 10:03pm
Back in the early 70's, cars and trucks used to "run on" for 10-20 seconds or so due to the higher compression ratio's and the introduction of unleaded fuel. GM added a shut down solenoid up at the Carburetor to correct the run-on problem. This solenoid was activated by the key switch. When you turn the key on, 12V's was sent to the solenoid which activated the solenoid to push out its plunger and open the throttle blades just a tick to start the engine. When shutting the engine off, the plunger would pop back in (12V's gone) and close the throttle blades completely shut. This cut the air off which stopped the engine from running on. These solenoids were pretty easy to install and would work pretty much on any engine. The reason the engine ran on is because of the throttle blades being held open by the idle screw, allowing air to rush in past the throttle blades and pull fuel vapor from the idle circuit to keep the engine running for those 20 seconds or so. I've used these solenoids on everything from stock cars and trucks to hotrods. They always worked. I believed they were called "aniti-diesel solenoids" or "Idle Stop Solenoid". They were also used on air conditioned cars that when the A/C was turned on, the solenoid would kick the throttle up a tick to compensate for the load put on the engine when the A/C was activated. The engine running a little hotter than normal would also make the engine run on.  Might want to try one of those...  HTH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2019 at 12:00am
The reason the engine continues to run, is autoignition.

Autoignition is when a combustible mixture is above the given temperature and pressure at which it will ignite all by itself.

Autoignition is the concept behind a Diesel engine- compression raises pressure and temperature high enough, so that when fuel is injected in fine mist, it autoignites.

Autoignition occurs in spark-ignited engines as a result of either a hot spot in the engine, excessive compression, or an exceptionally volatile fuel (like... very high in light fractions, and substantially less heavies).

The very first thing I would do, is back off the ignition timing by about two degrees, and verify that the centrifugal spark advance mechanism is properly operating.

If this has no effect, I would remove the plugs, and replace with the next lower heat range, and try again.  A 'colder' plug has an electrode insulator design that more rapidly transmits heat from the center electrode to the cylinder head.  IF the center electrode is getting too hot, it will serve as the hot surface ignition point.

If the GROUND electrode is getting too hot, then you've got a different scenario... the plug threads are not conducting heat fast enough to the head.  Wire brush them, and reinstall with no anti-seize or other compounds that would impede heat flow.
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