This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


Electrolysis tutorial
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
Author
Message
  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
Ted J View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18943 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2017 at 6:05pm
When you get that one done Ryan, I've got a couple that need doing.  LOL

As far as I know, the neck is soldered in.  I doubt they make an epoxy that will withstand gasoline.  I've been looking for a BIG solder iron that I can heat up with my torch and do a couple of these.  Haven't found anything as yet....
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
littlemarv View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1834 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2017 at 8:51pm
Well, the rod came out pretty clean today, I had it straight down into the tank.
 
 
There does seem to be a little bit of black scale in the tank now.
 
So, I drained it out, rinsed it several times, dropped in a piece of chain, rolled it around, and rinsed it three more times.
 
Now how do I get the water out so it doesn't rust right back up? 
 
If only I had a boot dryer, a funnel, two folding chairs, and two blocks of wood!
 
Oh wait. I do.
 
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
Back to Top
rustydollar View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 07 Aug 2017
Location: Manitoba
Points: 456 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rustydollar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2017 at 9:02pm
Can't find washing soda make your own from baking soda.

[TUBE]S7U_eW0Jt0k[/TUBE]
Back to Top
Sugarmaker View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8645 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2017 at 8:46am
Marv,
Yep looks of the rod, your done. Maybe a pint of light oil in the tank rolled around would keep the rust at bay? Nice set up getting it dry inside!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
Back to Top
theropod View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Sep 2017
Location: Arkansas USA
Points: 217 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 2:25pm
All I can is this process just works. In my case electrolysis made my rust filled AC-B tank as clean as a whistle. I did tumble that tank for two hours and knocked most of the rust free that way, but putting the electricity to work paid off in spades. I am currently attacking the old Zeinth carb in the same way without tumbling, and it is getting really clean really fast. The jets are "welded" in place, and hopefully the electrolysis won't eat them up before the rust. From what I have read the brass jets should be ok. Either way the rust had to go or the carb is useless. Below is a link to a couple YouTube videos I posted to document what I did with the tank.

Here is the tumbling process and worked like a charm. I would use small nuts or steel BB's had I to do it all again. Digging those nails and screws out with a magnet was frustrating. If I had used smaller abrasive bits they could have been flushed out the drain opening:


Here is the electrolysis from start to finish, which totalled about 16 hours of "cooking":


Roger
Back to Top
JoeM(GA) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Cumming,GA
Points: 4915 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 2:50pm
it will eat brass and copper
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
Back to Top
rustydollar View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 07 Aug 2017
Location: Manitoba
Points: 456 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote rustydollar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by theropod theropod wrote:

All I can is this process just works. In my case electrolysis made my rust filled AC-B tank as clean as a whistle. I did tumble that tank for two hours and knocked most of the rust free that way, but putting the electricity to work paid off in spades. I am currently attacking the old Zeinth carb in the same way without tumbling, and it is getting really clean really fast. The jets are "welded" in place, and hopefully the electrolysis won't eat them up before the rust. From what I have read the brass jets should be ok. Either way the rust had to go or the carb is useless. Below is a link to a couple YouTube videos I posted to document what I did with the tank.

Here is the tumbling process and worked like a charm. I would use small nuts or steel BB's had I to do it all again. Digging those nails and screws out with a magnet was frustrating. If I had used smaller abrasive bits they could have been flushed out the drain opening:


Here is the electrolysis from start to finish, which totalled about 16 hours of "cooking":


Roger


Thanks for posting this Rodger.
Back to Top
HoughMade View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Points: 714 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by rustydollar rustydollar wrote:

Can't find washing soda make your own from baking soda.

[TUBE]S7U_eW0Jt0k[/TUBE]

Washing soda is preferred, but I used straight baking soda to clean a "B" manifold a couple of weeks ago and it worked fine.
1951 B
Back to Top
theropod View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Sep 2017
Location: Arkansas USA
Points: 217 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by JoeM(GA) JoeM(GA) wrote:

it will eat brass and copper

I went and pulled it from the bucket, and if the brass was damaged I couldn't see it. A coat of old gas varnish probably protected it. The rust was gone, so it worked out, maybe. The old carb may need replacing despite, or because of, my efforts.

Roger
Back to Top
rustydollar View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 07 Aug 2017
Location: Manitoba
Points: 456 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rustydollar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by JoeM(GA) JoeM(GA) wrote:

it will eat brass and copper


If the carburetor is made from die-cast which most are, the zinc would be attacked first then the brass which is an alloy of copper and zinc.
Back to Top
allischalmerguy View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
Points: 2894 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 5:54pm
Thanks for sharing all this LittleMarv!
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
Back to Top
theropod View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Sep 2017
Location: Arkansas USA
Points: 217 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by rustydollar rustydollar wrote:

Originally posted by JoeM(GA) JoeM(GA) wrote:

it will eat brass and copper


If the carburetor is made from die-cast which most are, the zinc would be attacked first then the brass which is an alloy of copper and zinc.

The Zeinth carb in question here is a cast iron job, model 6705. A magnet sticks to it strongly, and inside it was rusty everywhere. A little dressing up with the dremel and a small burr took care of the little rust remaining after a 6 hour electrolysis session. The two jets only accessible from the inside was all the non ferrous metal remaining. I have searched the net for hours looking for replacements for both of them, and had no luck. As far as I can tell those brass parts were not effected in any way.

Roger
Back to Top
Ted J View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18943 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2017 at 9:16am
Who says "You can't teach and old dog new tricks" ?  I learned!!  Thanks for posting this!!
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.059 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum