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Distributor pin?? |
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Jan 2012 at 11:06am |
What you you guys use, for the 1/8" pin that hold the distributor drive gear in place on the Delco distributors? I had to remove one, to change a gear, and I am thinking steel roll pin with the ends peened, but don't want to screw it up, if it is suppose to be soft.
If you can buy them, where? Thanks, Anthony
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allischalmerguy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Deep River, IA Points: 2893 |
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Anthony,
My thoughts are why would it need to be soft? I think a roll pin the right size and fixed the way you are saying would work ok? Only think I can think would be go to a tractor bone yard and get a pin there. I know my Coop E3 has a delco and it probably has the same pin! Pastor Mike |
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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B26240 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3866 |
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Anthony I have never changed one of those but did change governor control rod arm and found out it was a tapered pin. was able to get one at local hardware store for .44c look closely you may be able to tell if the dist pin is by chance also tappered.
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2262 |
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I had to change the gear on my D-17.
I ground one end of the pin flush with the gear and carefully drove it out.
There was enuf pin so I could reinstall it and slightly peen the end again.
It is a straight pin.
I have had some luck in similar situations by using the smooth end of a drill bit.
Contrary to what some people think, the smooth end of a drill bit is quite malleable.
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
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Thanks for the idea pastor mike, but to get a used one out, you have to destroy it, because they are flattened on each end, and you have to file or grind it down to get the pin out, so that is not an option.
M26240, I took a micrometer to it, it is straight. The only reason I thought it might need to be soft is in case the engineers wanted it to act like a shear pin, I highly dough it, but didn't know for sure. The one I filed off the end on was soft. I don't see any reason the distributor would seize that the pin would need to shear off, but thought I better ask anyhow. I think a steel roll pin it will be. Thanks again for the thoughts
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
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JW in MO ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Feb 2010 Location: South KC Area Points: 2666 |
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I got one from a Case/IH dealer about three years ago. Had a bad gear on the MD, Austin's got me a gear off a WD45, thought I got a spare pin but can't locate it now.
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Maximum use of available resources!
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11992 |
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When I rebuild our customer's Distributors, I use a standard steel roll pin on reassembly. Nothin' trick. Just make sure each end of the new pin does not poke out past the main shaft. If it does, it can jam up the main shaft gear with the drive gear... HTH
Steve@B&B |
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mlpankey ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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R.W ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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ps. I just used a roll pin to replace the one that sheared. Edited by R.W - 07 Jan 2012 at 8:56pm |
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
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Actually RW it's funny you say that, that is almost exactly what killed this distributor. I bought this $750 D17, that had the engine completely apart except for the pistons still being in the liners. The company who owned it said it was costing too much to keep running and to sell it after the last breakdown, (broken governor weights) So I picked it up, and put a new kit in the engine, found the weights and a gear, and put a new carb kit in it, and decided to tear into the distributor, well they had broken loose the points adjusting screw and simply put a 1/2" long self tapping sheet metal screw in there instead. Guess what the weight springs were destroyed, the top weight plate was in three pieces, and one weight anchor post was torn loose. It must have still run, until the other problem, as the wear was incredible, but it didn't have any retard to it, as the weights were "hanging in the breeze" I would think it would run crappy at idle. So I had to fix all that up, but it's back in ready for oil and gas and a battery. Maybe tomorrow??? Funny thing is these were "professional" mechanics that service a rather large fleet of over the road trucks. Scary huh?
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
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