Dad's WD project

Tag says TSXU839. Not having much success. Is very difficult to get solder to harden at just moment of no pressure coming out this little vessel. It appears to have a tiny hole on the sides which I believe could be a vent during assembly then soldered shut as the last step. All this effort could be a lost cause as there is a crack in one of the sides and could end up being too heavy for proper adjustment when all said and done. So yeah if you have a good one let me know

The TSXU 839 is described as a universal replacement for 47 different models according to Robert's Carburetor web site. The 464 is not listed. In the Steiner catalog these two models appear different. The 839 has a larger scallop to clear the venturi. One possible idea. Compatible? Maybe. I will keep plugging on this till it's fixed or wrecked. Will keep you posted.

Block, crank, cam, and lifters finally came back from engine shop for cleanup. Here's a tip, when they ask you how soon you need it give them a deadline. Otherwise they will not find the time. I don't fault them though as I have been guilty of the same thing when asked by others to help with a project of theirs.
Crank is turned .010" under and cam was heavily stained from sitting idle so long I had them look it over. Flywheel not ready yet. Time to order the engine kit. Hope supply delays haven't affected that.

Not much progress on the float but took apart front wheel hubs.



One bearing fell apart upon removal and a race has some major pitting. Likely from sitting so long and the dust seal in poor condition. Picked up new bearings except 2 which are backordered


Edited by plummerscarin - 10 Dec 2021 at 9:23pm

plummer,

Yeah I was hopin to see the tracks project too

Plummer, did you ever get the carb straightened out? I've got a float sitting here.

Ha, I've been having a rough go trying to stay focused on my own WD that I tore apart 2 years ago. At least I'm in good company. The steering parts for these tractors are almost always in need of attention at this age.

I took a lot of slop out of the steering of both 45's with a new u-joint and pins in the shafts. Made oversize pins out of drill rod for one of them, don't remember which.

Another update today. Still plugging along slowly. More tin parts blasted and in primer. Started engine assembly last night. New cam bearings were installed at the engine shop and I mic'ed them and the cam journals and found them to be in spec. Set up the dial indicator on the cam lobes. Each are .001" less than original lift except #6 exhaust which is. 003" less but doubt that is a problem for this project. Also checked standout on new sleeves. .002" protruding on all of them.
Slowly but surely

Edited by plummerscarin - 02 Oct 2022 at 8:07am

This was my set up to check lift on the cam lobes

Sleeve O rings were next. Instructions say the non black silicone seal goes closest to crankshaft. Service manual says liquid soap for lubricant and kit instructions call for liquid soap or veggie oil. I went the soap route lightly watered down to keep from getting sticky

Sleeves are in. My low buck depth gauge shows .002" stand out from the deck.

Found time this week to get the crankshaft in. Have read engine build stories and watch gearhead shows and the builders always use micrometers to measure bearing clearance. So I got the sets I have to see how it compares to Plastigage


From my limited experience it appears to be just under .002" clearance

Crankshaft is in. I checked for free rotation after each main cap was torqued. Crankshaft moves easily and checked end play which measures out to .003"

The pistons are now ready for the rods when they get back

New pistons and rings are different than the old ones. Only 2 compression rings vs 3 on the old set. The book called for .007" gap on the rings while the instructions with the new says .016". This according to the math of bore diameter x .0045 for "street" applications. These rings are file to fit. Not having a gauge to set rings square in the bore, I used and old ring in the oil groove for fitting gaps. For grins I checked the gap on an old ring. .075".

Got the cam gear installed finally. Had been soaking in the parts washer for months but it just didn't cut through 30 years of gunk turned to varnish. Cleaned with a scuff pad, wire brushes and a pick.


Backlash measures in at .007"
Book calls for a max of .005 and replace when exceeds .008. Endplay comes in at .007"
Still waiting on my rods to come back. Took a while to figure out how to press the gear back on the cam. In hindsight I didn't really need to take it off. So I hung the end of the cam from a bearing separator on the arbor press and pushed the gear on with the help of a socket. Beats heating it in this case. Granted, it's not much progress but there are many things keeping me busy
I cannot find in the service manual a torque spec for the cam thrust plate bolts. These are hollow and a 7/16 bolt. Is there a torque value or maybe something like 40ft/lb?

Edited by plummerscarin - 09 Jan 2023 at 6:20am